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i would to if you have a voltage drop of 12 across the solenoid coil problem solved

Originally Posted by timebuilder

Red wire? Black wire? Poof?

I gotta go against John in this case.

This guy needs to talk with his boss, but my bet is that he doesn't have a boss, because he is not really a tech. Apparently, English is not his strong suit, either.

Words like ignitinator are a tip lol and the long yellow wire has 24v and the shorter yellow wire has none.

Originally Posted by Dwarren2012

Guys I need some opinions this am. Working on a Tempstar NUG5075BFA2. It has a VR8204M1075 gas valve. The t-stat calls for heat, inducer goes and closes the pressure switch. They the direct spark ignightor starts sparking and there is a poof of gas that comes from the piliot tube that imd goes out. The gas valve is getting 24v on the red wire and 12v on the black. Do you guys think the valv is bad? This is the first one wire spark ignition system I have seen.

Red wire? Black wire? Poof?

I gotta go against John in this case.

This guy needs to talk with his boss, but my bet is that he doesn't have a boss, because he is not really a tech. Apparently, English is not his strong suit, either.

Originally Posted by abeto

Ide say check your flame sen. And your pc board. also dont forget them limits. test every thing individualy

Why the heck are you raising a thread was buried back in April?

Just so you know, this forum is an open forum. No one has been vetted here, and that's why we don't post a lot of technical information because people do try to slip in here.

Originally Posted by icesoft

And why are we bring back a post from April for something that's already been fixed?!

Why not?

I bet it was a bad ground in the flame rectification "circuit" which was incidently corrected when changing the board.

This assumes, of course, that he had 24v across MV/PV and MV for a few seconds until the control stopped it for lack of uA coming back. He didn't say if he cleaned the flame rod...

And why are we bring back a post from April for something that's already been fixed?!

Originally Posted by dandyme

clues you are dealing with a homeowner:
1- not near enough info in the first post
2-terminology 3-wording of problem
those could also pertain to a slack @ssed tech to, which there is no difference between the two

i'm just old and gruppy, wtf do I know

Dad started doing this when I was ten, and I'm 52 now. We are both self-taught for the most part....I had never heard the term "flat" used to describe a system out of refrigerant until about 2 years ago.....Terminology alone, is not grounds to declare someone a "slack-assed tech"....

Originally Posted by allenwrench

He is in a tech to tech forum which means he previously had to get his post to 15 before aloud to come here right? Give the new guys a break, I am still new myself and dont need constructive criticism, we are trying to make a living just like everyone else.

dude that character only has 2 post, where do you get that kind of bad info.

thec2tech is a back door for homeowners that should have never been opened.

there is no vetting for tech2tech

clues you are dealing with a homeowner:
1- not near enough info in the first post
2-terminology
3-wording of problem
those could also pertain to a slack @ssed tech to, which there is no difference between the two

i'm just old and gruppy, wtf do I knopw

Originally Posted by dec

1 post and you guys are giving advice ????????? I think this homeowner should call a reputable heating company and Quit playing like he is a tech

He is in a tech to tech forum which means he previously had to get his post to 15 before aloud to come here right? Give the new guys a break, I am still new myself and dont need constructive criticism, we are trying to make a living just like everyone else.

Ide say check your flame sen. And your pc board. also dont forget them limits. test every thing individualy

Thanks guys! I am sorry for not updating sooner! I am not just a home owner trying to do it myself. Markvilleman put me on the right track. I went back and checked the honywell board and it was bad. Changed board heat fired and everyon was happy! Now A/C season has started early down here in Memphis TN and I am loving it! Not much of a winter here so I am well rested. Thanks for the advice guys and Ill check back in sooner so I am not labeled a diy.

had a keeprite gas unit that would get to the point of lighting the pilot then main valve opened and a good flame would be there then die back. Sometimes it would burn for a few seconds or few minutes... found out the gas company had a bad meter/reg and it was choking off the supply. The guy was way out in the country.

He's in a tech-to-tech forum.

we can't help giving advice. W are very sympathetic.

no advice given here he would need to be a tech to do or even know what I said besides checking if he has fuel in the tank if its lp we never received that answer.

1 post and you guys are giving advice ????????? I think this homeowner should call a reputable heating company and Quit playing like he is a tech

If I read your valve model correctly, it's an intermittent spark valve that can also be used as a universal valve.

In your application, after the inducer closes the pressure switch, a Honeywell S8610 (or similar) module should open the pilot valve and initiate spark to light the pilot.

It probably has a Honeywell ST9120 control board as well, to control the inducer and the blower.

After the pilot proves, the module will open the main valve. The valve should have three terminals..."PV" (pilot valve), "PV/MV" (common), and "MV" (main valve).

Selling them a new furnace won't teach you a thing. Figure it out and learn from it.

Come back here for more help if need be.....we're here for you.

What kind of control board u have? Is it a black box build of Honeywell smart valve? If positive,then check the board first before u condemn the valve. Good luck.

I've done the same!

I dont think he checked the gas pressure prob lp with no gas in the tank LOL