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Between the log readings, and the purge counts you will know if you have a leak issue. I have used the RefTec also, run 'till pressure gets to 7 psig using an accurate gauge. If you want to go above 10 psig you might want to fit up the back side of your pressure relief vent line, and install a line to keep the pressure equal on both sides of the disc. Isolating the condenser water valves at the barrel will usually prevent any problems getting the pressure up.

I would check the sensor threads on the bottom of the purge. I have had to retap the threads. Also check the econimizer flange connection to the evap.

Originally Posted by Randy S.

If the unit has a rupture disk, I wouldn't go above 5 psi.

i put in a pancake...........

Try the purge itself, for leaks. You can also have a go at running the chiller with the purge valved off and isolated see if it stays the same or gets worse. I have had some trouble in the past with the connections on the purge driers and the valves themselves leaking. Good luck.

If the unit has a rupture disk, I wouldn't go above 5 psi.

Originally Posted by CaptJackSparrow
Sorry Graham I have a different opinion I think hot water leak checking is %$#@^%! I have caused more leaks with hot water than I can stand. We went to chillers with no purge time, hook up the hot water and boom, leak rates up, we go back to the job and theres a big leak on the terminal board or somewhere. Usually a flat gasket! We do agree that the purge is the best leak detector. If it aint purgen! dont leak check it! Just verify purge operation. If you do recover the charge you get to do a leak test even better than a purge, thats is a vacuum test. When you leave the job you know for a fact how tight the machine is. I dont mind using hot water on some machines like 19ds, they have the paper/asbestos gaskets and dont seem subject to leaking after hot h20. I have 1990 CVHE that has about 500 mins of pumpout time, That came from my first hot water leak check on it. Caused the term board to leak. It has never been leak checked again and is tight. I have other stories but just to give my two cents own the matter, I think the hours padded into the annuals to leak check is BS. I wish the industry would change and stop leak checking non leaking chillers, also change the scope and price to reflect that! We at my "old job" always charged for the leak check but seldom performed the leak check. Which can get me off on another soap box so i will shut up while i am ahead!

Agreed dont get me wrong" if it aint purgin it aint leakin" as long as the chiller gets some off time to be sure its not a high side leak . But there are customers who say "I paid for a leak test so I want it a leak test " So I give them a "courtesy" leak test to appease them .
You are better off doing thorough purge maintenance and spending time checking all the flat gasket joints once a year to check if they are tight . Particularly motor cooling lines and economizer vent lines etc.

Originally Posted by CaptJackSparrow

Sorry Graham I have a different opinion I think hot water leak checking is %$#@^%! I have caused more leaks with hot water than I can stand. We went to chillers with no purge time, hook up the hot water and boom, leak rates up, we go back to the job and theres a big leak on the terminal board or somewhere. Usually a flat gasket! We do agree that the purge is the best leak detector. If it aint purgen! dont leak check it! Just verify purge operation. If you do recover the charge you get to do a leak test even better than a purge, thats is a vacuum test. When you leave the job you know for a fact how tight the machine is. I dont mind using hot water on some machines like 19ds, they have the paper/asbestos gaskets and dont seem subject to leaking after hot h20. I have 1990 CVHE that has about 500 mins of pumpout time, That came from my first hot water leak check on it. Caused the term board to leak. It has never been leak checked again and is tight. I have other stories but just to give my two cents own the matter, I think the hours padded into the annuals to leak check is BS. I wish the industry would change and stop leak checking non leaking chillers, also change the scope and price to reflect that! We at my "old job" always charged for the leak check but seldom performed the leak check. Which can get me off on another soap box so i will shut up while i am ahead!

Give me a reason give it a leak test agree with all of the above.

basically the same as the above. 4# is plenty of pressure, altough i have one r11 hr i bump it up to 20, with the burst disc removed. you do not see bubbles, you don't have a leak. i have several leak detectors, use the one closest to the door, including halide, which is tough because i'm color blind

First stage vane arms are notorious leakers. Alot of techs don't know you are suppose to lubricate them at least once per year. I would start there if you can't find anything.
And yes I still use a halite torch!

I guess i am so used to leak checking at 10-12 psi that i thought 4 psi wasn't sufficient for a through leak check. This unit had a purge pumpout time of 500 mins. in a 30 day span.. you would think the leak/leaks would jump right out at me.. but they didn't... unit is a CVHF770.. any weird leak finding stories?

If you got to 4 psig, that's good. Look at the boiliing poibt of R-123 to R-11 at atmosphere. R-123 is about 6 degrees higher. That's why it takes so long to pressurize. We also run thru the condenser/evaporator to presurize. it is faster. Watch out for the big Trane spools. They will push the refrigerant in to the crossover pipe.

Originally Posted by ChillerWisperer

BTW...which one did you buy?

Thanks for the input guys.. I bought the RefTec unit.. I also use there recovery units which seem to be top of the line..

Originally Posted by SMSChiller

So I bought this new chiller pressurizer

BTW...which one did you buy?

Originally Posted by txhvac

I've heated up R-11 machines w/ leaving condenser h20 from another machine in the plant.

I usually do that on 123 machines to start with also. Saves a lot of time if you're not starting out so far in the hole.

Sorry Graham I have a different opinion I think hot water leak checking is %$#@^%! I have caused more leaks with hot water than I can stand. We went to chillers with no purge time, hook up the hot water and boom, leak rates up, we go back to the job and theres a big leak on the terminal board or somewhere. Usually a flat gasket! We do agree that the purge is the best leak detector. If it aint purgen! dont leak check it! Just verify purge operation. If you do recover the charge you get to do a leak test even better than a purge, thats is a vacuum test. When you leave the job you know for a fact how tight the machine is. I dont mind using hot water on some machines like 19ds, they have the paper/asbestos gaskets and dont seem subject to leaking after hot h20. I have 1990 CVHE that has about 500 mins of pumpout time, That came from my first hot water leak check on it. Caused the term board to leak. It has never been leak checked again and is tight. I have other stories but just to give my two cents own the matter, I think the hours padded into the annuals to leak check is BS. I wish the industry would change and stop leak checking non leaking chillers, also change the scope and price to reflect that! We at my "old job" always charged for the leak check but seldom performed the leak check. Which can get me off on another soap box so i will shut up while i am ahead!

Agree that 4 psi should be plenty.If I pulled the gas out just to leakcheck everytime, i would probably find myself looking for a job.

Most of the time I run the hot water in one side of the condensor,condensor out to the evaporator,evaporator back to the heater. Other times drain the condensor. R123 a pain in the bu##

thats the first time I've heard someone say halide torches, I thought I was the only person left using them.

Agree w/ Graham, 4 psi is good. R-123 is allot lazier than R-11, I've heated up R-11 machines w/ leaving condenser h20 from another machine in the plant. H-10's are good detectors but they can lie to you, soap bubbles, halide torches are good for proof positive.

We use them all the time and 4psi is plenty .Just remember your electronic is just a guide (H10 I hope) get the soap out and try with soap ,no bubbles no troubles . Taking the gas out and all that B&@$&@T is a waste of time and lost refrigerant . Probably way more than the small leaks ????? you are finding .
As for time it depends on the chiller size ,what your start pressure ("vac) and how good a flow you can get through the boiler .But with 3/4" connections with and good flow you should be able to get a 1000ton machine up to 4psi in about 4 hours from around 10".
Just dont forget to drain the condenser or you will be chasin your tail .
And the best leak detector on the chiller should be either a Trane purifier or Earthwise purge .