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I agree with this when it's inside the compressor. I also think that if you're going to use the stuff, you have to be meticulous and sparing in the way it's applied.I don't use any on internal components, flat gaskets, or the oil system.The bolts I'm talking about are on the outside of the o-ring and sealant. The anti-seize is contained to the threads. I put a tiny dab on the tip of the bolt and then spin the bolt in a rag, wiping all of it off, except for a very thin line inside each thread.

We don't use any anti seize when assembling a chiller as it could affect your oil analysis reports and show a failure when there actually isn't one.

No problem, Troy!

A recent conversation between myself and one of my colleagues went like this:

"How do know what an inch is? How can you precisely measure it?"
"I don't know, with a micrometer?"
"No, just look down when you pee"
"I'd have to look down and then divide by 12"

Thank for the great info Rob , I appreciate your time and expertise , cheers!!

When the sealant they use on the metal to metal flanges is still wet, I apply final torque within an hour of putting the flanges together. The number is not as important as having even surface tension on the flange all the way around. All of the compressor bolts are 5/8" grade 5. The torque spec for them is 120-165 ft./lbs. The most important thing to take into consideration when you're trying to evenly torque the bolts is how clean the threads of the casting and the bolts are. If I can't easily thread every bolt into every hole by hand almost all the way with a tiny amount of never-seize on the tip, they're not clean enough, in my mind, to get a consistent torque on the flange. If the bolts give resistance, they'll make your wrench "click" prematurely. The sealant used at the factory hardens from the inside out, and once it's hard, the bolts will not come loose. If you have a leak on a compressor flange, you have to take it apart to fix it right. No shortcuts, unfortunately. One thing I can tell you is don't put 30-35# on the econo bolts. In my experience, the 14-16# factory spec can even be too much. I've gotten used to going by feel and sight on rubber gaskets. If the gasket is pushing out of the flange, it's too tight.

Originally Posted by Healey Nut

Im ambidextrous

Now that's funny!

Originally Posted by Nuclrchiller

Which begs the question, "so, are you right-handed or left-handed?" On second thought, I don't wanna know!

Im ambidextrous

Originally Posted by Healey Nut

Foot pounds in the right arm , inch pounds on the left .

Which begs the question, "so, are you right-handed or left-handed?" On second thought, I don't wanna know!

Originally Posted by Healey Nut

Foot pounds in the right arm , inch pounds on the left .

Nice reply!!!

Originally Posted by Healey Nut

Why waste your time trying to tighten compressor bolts , they dont come loose and on the newer machines theres no O ring in there anyway , all you are concerned about is the flat gasket joints.

Healey Nut I was asking about the metal to metal seals was because the Trane Tech that worked on one of the CVHE here had cut all the insulation off around the compressor and and suction 90 degree elbow and retorqued all the bolts , I figure if he was doing it there must of been a reason

Originally Posted by klove

Metal to metal fits don't need to be retorqued to stop a leak. Economizer flange bolts I believe are 3/8" rated at 35 lbs/ft +/-. Don't crush or squeeze the gaskets out of the fit or you'll just defeat the purpose.

Thank you Klove for replying the reason I was asking about the metal to metal seals was because the Trane Tech that worked on one of the CVHE here had cut all the insulation of around the compressor and and suction 90 degree elbow and retorqued all the bolts , I figure if he was doing it there must of been a reason , very green and trying to learn .

Well that was a waste of half of a night , but the important thing is that I learned something , I guess I need to pay better attention , point well taken .thanks for all of your post your time and expertise is muchly appreciated .

Why waste your time trying to tighten compressor bolts , they dont come loose and on the newer machines theres no O ring in there anyway , all you are concerned about is the flat gasket joints.

Originally Posted by Healey Nut

You had better learn to develop "a feel" and quick . Not sure if you have taken the time to look but some of the flat gaskets are not really accesible with a 18" long torque wrench ,plus if you start adding extensions and wobble drives and knuckle joints your torque setting is out the window . And if you have vibration on a Trane centravac you have much bigger problems to worry about than a leaking O ring as it will becoming apart for a whole teardown .

Healey I was just talking everyday normal vibration and ya I was trying to do some compressor bolts and the damn pipe for the econo is in the way gonna need more knuckle joints and extentions.

Thanks Screwit

Originally Posted by Troy Love

Have a leak on one of the chillers ,I know how to heat pack and find leaks but do you guys ever go around your chiller and torque all you bolts down as like a yearly inspection type thing and if you do does anyone have the torque Specs. Cant find it anywhere in my O&M manual.

thanks in advance

Attached might help for reference factory flat gasket re-torque specsAttachment 336461

Originally Posted by jayguy

i'm glad i'm not your weiner!

Foot pounds in the right arm , inch pounds on the left .

Originally Posted by Troy Love

Thanks Healey Nut , I dont know if I have the feel and dont wanna be the guy that snapped the econimizer bolt off , there has to be some sort of bolt to torque ratio.I would feel better knowing that I followed the specs and if something goes wrong at least I can say I followed the Trane specs.

You had better learn to develop "a feel" and quick . Not sure if you have taken the time to look but some of the flat gaskets are not really accesible with a 18" long torque wrench ,plus if you start adding extensions and wobble drives and knuckle joints your torque setting is out the window . And if you have vibration on a Trane centravac you have much bigger problems to worry about than a leaking O ring as it will becoming apart for a whole teardown .

Originally Posted by Healey Nut

...My torque wrench is built into my right forearm....

i'm glad i'm not your weiner!