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venting critique

Factory chimney must be installed to the listed instructions. Not a clear shot but I don't see a listed ceiling support. Do NOT pack kaowool or anything into stated clearances! This is an extreme fire hazard. As a mfrs. rep. who investigates fires, trust me.
There should be an 18" clearance to combustibles. That includes the ceiling, PVC pipe, wiring, etc.
There is no cleanout. In ceiling applications, you'll need a tee and connect to the snout.
The barometric damper should be located close to the appliance collar.

If you check the firing rate and look it up in NFPA 31, you'll probably see where this vent is oversized.

hth

I will order the book, but in the meantime you check this out: http://www.diydata.com/planning/cent...ing/boiler.htm

Remember the pump is forcing the water trough the system and building up [extra] pressure, so hotter water is forced into the vessel damaging the membrane, you will find probebly more black residue in the water.
The xp vessel shout be mounted close near the inlet of the pump in order to keep positive pressure in the system.
At least that is what teachers told us.
This was a long time ago,i agry, but still why the differends???

kEEP UP THE GOOD WORK.

lUC.

ORDER THIS BOOK!

http://www.heatinghelp.com/shopcart/...?category=2-16


Sorry 'bout the yellin......

hi there,
Please can somebody tell me why do we in Europe fit the expansiontank in the inletside and you [North America ]put it in the outletside?
If you put it in the inletside it gets less hot and will last longer, this is maybe not so good for the company, but more relayable.
Please share youre thoughts whit me..

pumping away is from the point of no pressure change, not necessarily meaning away from the boiler. The pressure is lowered on the return side of the circulator every time it starts the way this system is piped. This causes the auto fill to react as if the pressure is low. In time it is possible the pressure relief valve will start to leak. To resolve this move the Xtrol to the inlet side of the circulator so it is pumping away from it. The Xtrol or bladder tank is the point of no pressure change

al

Ant time you get to pull a Burnham its a plus, the job looks real good.
I tend to go the other way though, with pumping away, and any thing with more than 1 zone I upgrade the circulator.

BJD

Originally posted by markwolf

Originally posted by beenthere
I prefer a valve directly before and after the circ.

At 2 in the morning I'm a little lazy, so I like it to be easy changing circs, or cartridges.

Nice install though.

to heck with the shutoff's use webstone flange valves! http://www.webstonevalves.com/isolator.html

Now those are nice!

Originally posted by beenthere
I prefer a valve directly before and after the circ.

At 2 in the morning I'm a little lazy, so I like it to be easy changing circs, or cartridges.

Nice install though.

to heck with the shutoff's use webstone flange valves! http://www.webstonevalves.com/isolator.html

I'd open that 1 1/4" ball valve on the return

I prefer a valve directly before and after the circ.

At 2 in the morning I'm a little lazy, so I like it to be easy changing circs, or cartridges.

Nice install though.

Originally posted by wink
Biggest thing I see wrong is
A-(osv)wrong place
B-(no spirovent)

good job(buen trabajo carlos)

I like spirovents also, but with the Peerless they already have a tapping on the boiler for air venting too much redundancy. We have not had any problems

OSV in the wrong place? That is just the shut off near the boiler. There is another 2 behind the well trol.

Ummm, no, if you use zone valves you don`t need to install flow checks,all your doing is moving the location of the pump.

My understanding and experiance is that if you install a Circulator on the supply side and zone valves on the return side you will need flow controls on the supply side to prevent creep heat in the zones that are not open.

We just repiped a home that had that installed by the home owner. Now he has no mo creep heat.

Biggest thing I see wrong is
A-(osv)wrong place
B-(no spirovent)

good job(buen trabajo carlos)

[QUOTE]Originally posted by atufano
[B][QUOTE]Originally posted by sirjames
[B]

Originally posted by atufano

Originally posted by sirjames




Not sure what you mean

Usually, if the ZV's are ok, and the piping is alright, we cut out the boiler and hook up to the existing headers. If we were to pipe it the other way, you have to pipe in a flow control for each zone, and a zv for each zone. So you then have a header of flow controls and zone valves.

Ummm, no, if you use zone valves you don`t need to install flow checks,all your doing is moving the location of the pump.

Originally posted by Freezeking2000

and supplies all the hot water you can use.

And hot water is 180 deg F or more

Originally posted by atufano

Originally posted by sirjames

Originally posted by atufano

Originally posted by sirjames


Of course the Wallies advocate pumping away but we usually don't either since it normally takes a lot more repiping.

Can you explain how moving the pump from the return to the supply means there will be more re-piping?

especially since a lot of manufacturers ship them loose anyway.

Flow-Control Valves and Zone Valves on the Return.

Not sure what you mean

Usually, if the ZV's are ok, and the piping is alright, we cut out the boiler and hook up to the existing headers. If we were to pipe it the other way, you have to pipe in a flow control for each zone, and a zv for each zone. So you then have a header of flow controls and zone valves. [/B][/QUOTE]I guess I don't understand why you would have to add pumps & valves?It looks like from the photos that the entire header could have been raised with little effort.

Originally posted by sirjames

Originally posted by atufano

Originally posted by sirjames


Of course the Wallies advocate pumping away but we usually don't either since it normally takes a lot more repiping.

Can you explain how moving the pump from the return to the supply means there will be more re-piping?

especially since a lot of manufacturers ship them loose anyway.

Flow-Control Valves and Zone Valves on the Return.

Not sure what you mean [/B][/QUOTE]

Usually, if the ZV's are ok, and the piping is alright, we cut out the boiler and hook up to the existing headers. If we were to pipe it the other way, you have to pipe in a flow control for each zone, and a zv for each zone. So you then have a header of flow controls and zone valves.

Originally posted by atufano

Originally posted by sirjames


Of course the Wallies advocate pumping away but we usually don't either since it normally takes a lot more repiping.

Can you explain how moving the pump from the return to the supply means there will be more re-piping?

especially since a lot of manufacturers ship them loose anyway.

Flow-Control Valves and Zone Valves on the Return. [/B][/QUOTE]

Not sure what you mean

Originally posted by Freezeking2000
For all the southerboys this is a boiler..lol

It heats a good size home and supplies all the hot water you can use.

Most times they last 20-30 years with minimal service.
(annual tune up!)although the last one seemed to look newer!

The install looks great

The Burnham was only 11 Yrs. Old when she cracked.

Originally posted by sirjames


Of course the Wallies advocate pumping away but we usually don't either since it normally takes a lot more repiping.

Can you explain how moving the pump from the return to the supply means there will be more re-piping?

especially since a lot of manufacturers ship them loose anyway. [/B][/QUOTE]

Flow-Control Valves and Zone Valves on the Return.