Reply to Thread

Originally Posted by timebuilder

Cool. I learned something.

As did I

Sent from my GSIII on Tapatalk

Originally Posted by rich pickering

ABS pipe. And the glue for that is a solvent.

Cool. I learned something.

Originally Posted by b-roq

I used only large tube cutters with the pvc wheel installed. cuts perfect everytime.

there we go.i think thats the way to go.will cut 3" and 2" pipe.

cheers

Originally Posted by billg

How many turns around to cut 3"? How hard is it to both hold and cut at the same time or do you clamp the pipe down?

The cutters big enough for 3" pipe are a bore to handle. That being said, the right wheel makes a huge difference, and they make a really clean cut, but its still a bit of a fight

Originally Posted by b-roq

I used only large tube cutters with the pvc wheel installed. cuts perfect everytime.

How many turns around to cut 3"? How hard is it to both hold and cut at the same time or do you clamp the pipe down?

ABS pipe. And the glue for that is a solvent.

Well correct me when im wrong! Thanks for the clarification. So to go a little further, the black pipe with yellow solvent is.. Ie the stuff that was used in Canada for hi eff systems before 636.
I know I've read the labeling before but it escapes me at the moment.

Sent from my GSIII on Tapatalk

I used only large tube cutters with the pvc wheel installed. cuts perfect everytime.

Originally Posted by DeHeatify

The other difference with 636 is that the bonding agent is not a glue, but a cement that melts and bonds the 2 pieces of plastic together.
We see many a pvc fitting where the glue has started to let go and condensation has started to drip from the joints

Sent from my GSIII on Tapatalk

PVC "Glue" is actually solvent cement. The same type of bonding agent that you're referring to with 636 piping.

Done properly, PVC joints are as permanent as it gets.

Originally Posted by DeHeatify

The other difference with 636 is that the bonding agent is not a glue, but a cement that melts and bonds the 2 pieces of plastic together.
We see many a pvc fitting where the glue has started to let go and condensation has started to drip from the joints

Sent from my GSIII on Tapatalk

The leaking from the joints is from improper preparation. If you don't chamfer the edge of the pipe it scrapes out the solvent from the socket of the fitting.

Like timebuilder said, all PVC is assembled with solvent cement, not glue.

The only joint compound I have ever used on PVC is a solvent joint, rather than a glue.

I can't remember ever seeing a glue joint on PVC.

Of course, they use a glue on ABS, but I never see that in the states.

The other difference with 636 is that the bonding agent is not a glue, but a cement that melts and bonds the 2 pieces of plastic together.
We see many a pvc fitting where the glue has started to let go and condensation has started to drip from the joints

Sent from my GSIII on Tapatalk

Originally Posted by syndicated

Shavings only occur if you're irresponsible and careless.
On the exhaust, it's a non issue.

Sawzall has been my tool of choice since they brought in the scam of 636.

My buddy works for Royal pipe systems, he's got it on good authority that 636 is the same as sched 40 pvc but twice as expensive because its "certified"

I have seen several PVC installs where after a couple if years you can see it deform and sag between supports. I have never seen this with a 636 system.

Shavings only occur if you're irresponsible and careless.
On the exhaust, it's a non issue.

Sawzall has been my tool of choice since they brought in the scam of 636.

My buddy works for Royal pipe systems, he's got it on good authority that 636 is the same as sched 40 pvc but twice as expensive because its "certified"

I haven't used 636 just sched 40. The only big problem with pluged drains was on the Lennox, ( Like I said the port is very small even a lady bug would cause problems) I didn't have problem when I installed cuz I was carefull and made sure I cleared shavings. I'm a servic tech so I don't install all that often anymore, ( in comparison to when I was an installer). It just seamed when we ( techs) would tell the installers about the problem it seamed to fall on def ears. In any case when you don't take the time to fallow proper procedures the end product tends to be subpar.

Originally Posted by plott hound

636 pipe is pvc vent pipe made by ipex.we have to use it here in canada.sawzall should not be used because of the plastic cuttings.they stick to the inside of the pipe via static electricity and eventually plug the furnace drain.a special chamfer tool must be used with 636 pipe.it chamfers the outside of pipe and allows a real good press fit joint without "plowing out"the cement.

+1

Can't count how many service calls I have been on, where the only problem was blocked condensate drains due to 636 shavings

Originally Posted by plott hound

636 pipe is pvc vent pipe made by ipex.we have to use it here in canada.sawzall should not be used because of the plastic cuttings.they stick to the inside of the pipe via static electricity and eventually plug the furnace drain.a special chamfer tool must be used with 636 pipe.it chamfers the outside of pipe and allows a real good press fit joint without "plowing out"the cement.

Couple things, was that your experience, lots of plugged up drains from shavings? I haven't used 636, is it more prone to shavings sticking then the sched 40 PVC used in the states?

I've been on two plugged drains from shavings and it was when our company brought on new helpers that did it wrong and didn't clear the shavings. If you ream it(this end down so the shavings don't go in the pipe), clear it and use a sharp knife to cut off any extra outside edge, it won't happen. All that stuff takes about 10 seconds when you're familiar with it, again not experienced with 636 though.

I got a what I thought to be a good 2" cutter made by Kobalt. It had a very agressive v shaped blade. It would tend to just break the pipe instead of cut. I took it back and got a cheep generic brand one. It cuts nice however the ratchet likes to slip sometimes. I like to lay the pipe on the ground and have one handle of the cutter on the ground, then use my weight to push the other handle down. It will cause the pipe to bend inward a little, but it will eventually cut. If I have to cut an exsisting pipe it is kind of a fight but it will do it. I have had a little trouble in cold temps so I just took my little LP torch out and quickly warm up pipe a little. For 3" pipe I like the chop saw but it's a little bit of a pain to drag it around so I usually use a skill saw. Just need to wear glassed to protect eyes. However, when ever I create shavings I run a rag or blow through with CO2. If you have ever been called out at 11:30 pm to drive 2 hours to run a no heat on a 4 hour old install and find shavings pluged up so bad you have to run a water hose down the flew to clear them out it makes you be very picky when it comes to shavings. The Lennox G series and the (new series that I can't think of its name right now). Have a very very small drain port from the collector box and the drain line has very little pitch. They will plug very easily.

636 pipe is pvc vent pipe made by ipex.we have to use it here in canada.sawzall should not be used because of the plastic cuttings.they stick to the inside of the pipe via static electricity and eventually plug the furnace drain.a special chamfer tool must be used with 636 pipe.it chamfers the outside of pipe and allows a real good press fit joint without "plowing out"the cement.

Originally Posted by Hvac216

What is 636 pipe?

System 636 PVC is classified as Type BH Class IIA vent suitable for use on appliances with flue gas temperatures up to and including 65*C. Sizes include 1-1/2", 2", 2-1/2", 3" and 4". Coloured white with unique blue certification markings and orange warning label in accordance with ULC S636.

They(Canadians) aren't allowed to use the standard sched 40 PVC that we use in the states. They also, in general, have a more stringent code system and process of becoming certified in various HVAC fields.