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If we were pressed for time we would drill a hole to clear the leak then use SS bolt,nut, 2 SS washers 1 top,1 bottom and 2 neopreem gaskets, top & bottom cut a little larger then the washers. These would last for years

I have done a few tower sumps with fiberglass and they last a while but over time the fiberglass usually lets go of the sheetmetal and then you have a floating bowl inside the sump. I don't know if you are a car buff but there is a product out there called POR-15 that is made for sheetmetal repair and corosion prevention and is great for this type of repair. Used it a few months ago on a 400 ton condenser water cooler for a chiller that was leaking pretty bad. Also used it on the sub-frame on my 69 Camaro and all of the floor boards and trunk pan. The stuff cures plyable but is pretty bullet proof. Metal does not have to be spotless just free of loose debris and rust scale. If this does not sound like the ticket for you then I would either spot weld the leaks or weld in patch panels. Forget the fiberglass. Too messy and it will cook your brain inside the confines of the tower.

Okay.

I did it myself. On Tuesday. Simple as can be. I laid it out like this. I can patch it and then as things get worse we can explore replacement. It's a done deal boss. She is dry as a bone.

I did convince them to start using a professional water treatment outfit.

It is crazy that it's rusting after 7 years. Recold wants nothing to do with it. Typical.

Did the weld repair work?
That is the only way to a confident, billable repair all the other suggestions are "mickey mouse". You would not gear clamp a piece of rubber over a refrig. pinhole leak!
Stainless steel is remarkably fusible and it is most likely that the leak has occured on a weld seam and is easily rewelded!
How's that tank?

Is this tank subject to vibration? SS work hardens with flexing and or vibration easly. And cracks as a result. This should be a walk in the park to weld. Are these holes or cracks. If they are pin holes I would bet they are the tip of t he ice-berg. Look for epoxy sloshing compound used for gas tanks to line it with, I have used this as a bandaid before. If this is a very big tank at all I would get a liblity waver before you do ANY repair. CYA.

freezeking, I would say is's the fastest and cheapest way out...ya think? We had another process we would use when the building was built around the condenser(you know what I mean) If the pan was the only problem we would raise the condenser, cut the legs out, remove old pan, have sheetmetal make up anotherS.S. pan with legs to install after pan was in place and Vuolla' it was good for another life time. This procedure was done only if the existing condenser was worth it, if not, we would call in terrosts to blow up the mechanical room and then they would have to spend money, of course thats not tru but I have been known to accidentally put in too much acid cleaning liquid and have the entire coil section fall down. I was always looking for a way to improve working conditions for our clients(Civil service). I always took great pride in having the best area in the district.

I have done just what you did Shotgun.....still that way 2 years later.

For a temporary fix..like a couple of years we used to drill a 1/4 in hole and put a a 1/4 in bolt and nut with rubber washers . use only stainless steel worked very good and can be done quite a few times!

when in diubt... Punt!

The duct tape wouldn't be bad. I am really wishing for just a simple stick like they had in Harry Potter. Ala cazaam, plug hole.

And charge 15,000 grand a wand wave.

Have you tried Ductape???

Jus kidding ........

Johnstone Supply carries a Pan Epoxy Patch kit which consists of a two part goop which is said to seek it's own level in a drain pan.

Possibly you could goop this stuff on the areas which are leaking.

I like the welding idea the best though.

My personal sugestion is to go with a gas shielded SS MIG unit. Or you can have the pan TIG Welded, heli arc.

Wish they made a Dactape loaded with some stick-um which would adhere to most anything.

Tsk, tsk...... maybe in the near future....

I had the tank empty the other day to take a look. Just a few holes. I think the first go round on this is going to be a simple patch weld. Take no time and we get the thing to stop leaking. This customer is paying dearly right now for other discoveries I have made about there system.

I got a buddy who is in business as a welder for himslef and he claims he can do it no problem.

In a few years I am sure it will be worse and then maybe we can look at something more in depth. The integrity of most of it is solid. It's leaking at weld seams. Not on a flat peice of stock, where a rusted hole worked itself through.

Fiberglass or epoxies are only good for a patch and they need time to dry. a good welder to repair or depending on the tank bending up a new base to fit inside it and a good bead of welding around the edges would be a more long term repair.

I like lmtd's idea

Call Rhino linings and never worry about it rusting again.

All joking aside, it may be worth it to look into coatings so that you don't have to do the same thing for the five years.

Originally posted by condenseddave
You can repair small cracks in that tank with staybrite #8 and a good liquid acid flux like Stay Clean.

ditto above.


brass work good also. last a long long time.

They also make a liquid stainless steel. It's like epoxy but it's ment for stainlees steel. This stuff is easy to apply and works real good.

My only simillar exp. was with a s/s ice cream pastuerizer that had cracks at the existing welds on the water jacket.
We tried a s/s epoxy and were unsuccessful, Did'nt try the fiberglass method but cracks were repaired after 2-3 attempts by a s/s welder.

Stainless welding is tricky but interesting, easy to learn though + low amperage and clean work. I would recommend a repair done by welding for a permanent solution.

You can repair small cracks in that tank with staybrite #8 and a good liquid acid flux like Stay Clean.

I would opt for the fiberglassing of the tank as well. I've done a number of drain pans recently but nothing as big as a tower sump tank since I 'glassed my boat when I was in high school.

If you're not experienced in this kind of stuff, there are outfits that specialize in it. Check out the local boat shops and I'll bet you'll get pointed in the right direction to somebody to give you a quote.

If the fiberglass patch isn't what you're looking for, check out sectional prefab tank structures. I don't know offhand who makes them but I've seen knocked-down sections that get gasketed and bolted together on site. That would have to be cheaper than blowing holes in the wall.

Maybe Wanna will weld one up for ya'with his MIG.

I've used the fiberglass too with great results , but to be in and out in 2 hrs makes me think you were an autobodyman in one of your previous lives .

I'd tell ya to rent a mig welder for stainless, or better yet , just buy the damn thing and you got a brand new Custom Kitchen Hood Shop.

It's a " piece a cake " . After you weld, grind and buff a few welds , you'll be an expert too !

BTW @ 300 bux for a gas free,auto feed mig , you cant go wrong learning something new and giving that client " the professional touch " with any stainless steel or light metal welding .

[Edited by Wannamakeice on 11-14-2003 at 09:53 AM]