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Went to a Daikin class and they recommend oiling the flares.

Brass to brass galls so some kind of lubricant is advisable.

Originally Posted by KeyResults

I find it amazing that I still have to buy Nylog red & blue via Internet since none of the locals stock it. Can't understand it.

If you have a Johnstone Supply near you they should have it, or at least order it in.

I find it amazing that I still have to buy Nylog red & blue via Internet since none of the locals stock it. Can't understand it.

I put it on everything including all of my Digital manifold and hose connections. Its also great on your evacuation connection setups. I ripped through three bottles of the blue this summer and i don't use alot on each connection. Just a few dabs and when you screw on the fitting it disperses perfectly! Once i found nylog last year i threw that blue leak lock goop right in the trash!!! I got sick of finding that stuff suck in screen of TXVs and plugged in fixed metering devices because of installers applying to much of that crap on flare connections!!! LONG LIVE NYLOG!

Wow I gotta get me some of that!

Yep good olde Nylog. Works every time. As a matter of fact, I insist that my installers use it on all refrigeration flare connections.

Nylog video. I use the stuff for all flare fittings.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vAULfI8-Wwk

Nylog is worth every penny. It's not too expensive either. Just a dab will do... Had a industrial refer tech introduce it to me and I've had it in my tool bag for 3 years now. Keep the blue pipe dope for pipe threads.. Nylon for anything refer. I've sealed gaskets and other joints with it.

Originally Posted by Mrak

I've never heard of Nylog. Is it oil based or what?

Yes its like honey made out of oil.

There are 2kinds red label is mineral and blue is Poe.

All I can get is the blue and just use that personally.

Now I use it on all sorts of things. Bottle stays right in my bag.

I've never heard of Nylog. Is it oil based or what?

I carry a little eye-dropper full of mineral oil with me everywhere. I oil everything with it, including flare nuts. Oil helps when you are actually making the flare also. The amount of oil we are talking about here is so minute that even if it were to get into a system with POE, it wouldn't make a bit of difference. For everything outside of a refrigeration circuit, WD-40 and dry graphite powder are my weapons of choice. On my PMs, I spray down hinges, door latches, linkages, ball joints, etc. WD-40 also works ok for keeping certain things from weathering and rusting, but I prefer to paint items like that with an enamel like Glyptal. Sorry to get so off track there... lol

Nylogs not available here, but have been using poe in a little oiler for years.

On one of the milk cooler manufacturers equipment i look after they use what looks like silicone grease on the back of the flare, never had one of their factory one leak, with that in mind been trying out aluminum anti seize grease on the back of flares after getting a tube of Loctite stuff at a car show, seems to work well and stops the pipe turning with the nut.

Nylog on every flare for me. The stuff is great.

Nylog here also. I apply it to all my service valve caps when installing too. I got both the red and blue. It's funny how they recommend you uses the blue for poe and red for mineral but then they say you can use each for both...

Yep I use nylog as well, on the face, back and the threads.

Mitsubishi recommends oil

Originally Posted by junkhound

and why?

When I went to a Mitsubishi class several years ago, the insturctor recommended using
refrigeration oil on the flare to make sure the microscopic pores were full of something.

I use Nylog.

Good ole nylog is perfect for this app!

You want to minimize "grip" as much as you can, same reason you oil the back of the flare. If during the tightening the mating surface wants to slide it's easier with oil. Remember, every flare is just a little different from the tool so as you tighten it down the shape may adjust a little, oil keeps the mating surface from gripping in such a scenario which leads to better seal. It's more of an extra than a necessity though in my opinion.

I've seen gas companies oil the mating surface of black iron unions for the same reason.

I was reading the manufacturers instructions the other day for a mini-split and they are now suggesting that you add oil to both the inside and outside of the flare. I had the same question as you, so I contacted Daikin and the rep told me that we should be using PVE oil instead of POE. It seems that the majority of the mini-split manufacturers are using PVE oil in their systems instead of POE.

Well, none of my distributors carry PVE oil, but Nu-Calgon sells it and most distributors can get it for you if requested.

Hope that helps...