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I've had a very similar issue with a 3ton horizontal unit that was installed by another contractor. It was tripping the condensate overflow causing system shut down, on the tranquility systems the overflow switch simply works off continuity, it cannot stick or anything like a simple float. the problem stemmed from not properly adjust airflow and minding the fact of airflow. it was drawing a negative pressure not allowing any condensate from draining, even when i repiped the drain per manufacter installation instruction. There is one thing i would recommend to anyone installing a climate master geo, use the climate master thermostat! worth the money, i has an integrated memory and fault code status which tells you exactly wat the system is doing. great thermostat

Float switch trips out all 24 volt control power to unit and stat. When float switch returns to normal the stat will annunciate "wait" for up to 5 minutes depending on its setup.

A properly installed float switch will only operate if pan fills. The condensate line that drains the pan, though simple in concept, is often poorly installed. Look for double traps, improperly pitched sections of line, or clogs from fouling or initial construction debris.

A slow draining condensate line can produce intermittent failures - the unit trips out, but by the time investigation gets underway, the offending water has had time to drain away

Ok, after the 3rd trip I think they fixed it. I wasn't home but I called and talked with my rep. He thought it was something to do with the float switch but wasn't sure because hadn't talked to the tech much yet. He said it's happened before where the float switch would not make good contact or something and cause the unit to shut off.

I'm a little confused because it is connected directly to the plumbing drain and shouldn't the float switch only operate if the pan is full of water? It should never be full of water if the drain is working properly right?

I'm more inclined to think it was the thermostat malfunctioning and maybe he didn't get the whole story from the tech. I wish I could have been there but couldn't.

either way I haven't caught it short cycling but I haven't been watching it too much. It is having a little trouble getting to 72 degrees but it's upstairs and it's 105 outside plus I think the upstairs unit is cooling most of the bottom floor as well, but that's a separate issue..

Originally Posted by dforster2

It's a honeywell touch pad but not sure the model. It never reaches its set point.

IF its a honeywell touchscreen, probably the 8000, That stat says "wait" whenever its in a delay to start the cooling, it must be shutting itself off for some reason at the stat. I'd be looking there, not at the unit.

what is the setpoint and ambient at the stat? Cant really diagnose from here. You'll need your contractor to fix your issue. I sure know where I would start tho.

It's a honeywell touch pad but not sure the model. It never reaches its set point.

If your thermostat says "wait" then it kicked the unit off after enough run time, either there is cool air blowing on the thermostat to shut it off or there is an issue with the thermostat, what model thermostat? There are very few that have any involvement with the unit, (pressure switches tripping etc) if the unit tripped itself off for some reason the thermostat would simply keep calling, never saying "wait"

problem w/ new climatemaster

I have called the contractor back once and the same thing is happening again. The 3 ton upstairs unit will cool for about 10 minutes (during a very hot day) and then shut off and the thermostat says wait. then it will kick back on about 5 minutes later and run for a little while, usually 10-20 minutes and kick off again. The air coming out is not nearly as cool as the downstairs 4 ton that works flawlessly. They are both the tranquility 27 packaged units.

The first trip out, the tech said he coulnd't really isolate a problem but had the water lines bled (we heard some gurfling in the garage where they come in) and changed the air filter and it seemed to work ok after that. He said it was probably the high pressure limit switch due to not enough water getting way up there to the 2nd floor attic where the unit is located. Now it is doing it again. I don't hear the gurgling but could be because I haven't listened for it. It's 100+ out and I don't spend too much time sitting out there waiting for it..

I guess he will fix it one way or another, I am just curious if anybody has a guess as to what it could be. It's kind of discouraging knowing that you spend $30k plus on a new system and if it's kicking limit switches off and cycling so much it's probably using more electric than a regular heat pump.. not to mention it was almost 80 degrees upstairs all weekend.