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It really warms as it collects moisture. I'm not talking about reactivation. It is transient but you can sense it when compared to entering liquid temp going into the drier. It does not affect drier performance and it is very transient, it will make you scratch your head cause if anything you would expect same temp or a drop if it is restricted.

You can also demonstrate it by opening a new replaceable core and holding it in your hand, if there is enough humidity in the air you will feel it warm up. It won't be any good after that.

I have observed it like on chillers that had a rupture and your replacing drier cores every 30 min.

Years ago Sporlan had a white paper on it and RSES referenced it in a SAM Sorbents and Desiccant.

I will try to find I not sure it I'm not sure it is archived in on line stuff, it really old like late 60's

You all are right the warmer the fluid the less water the drier will adsorb.

4 pages on a disposable cooler

maybe he meant... a drier will release moisture as it warms.

maybe...

Originally Posted by chuckcrj

I was scratching my head on that one too........

I waiting for that one to be explained.

Originally Posted by primmers

driers warm when picking up water?????? really?

I was scratching my head on that one too........

driers warm when picking up water?????? really?

Driers warm as they pick up moisture, I think you defiantly have a leak, with POE oil and moisture you are going to be making acid big time.

I didn't see where you had changed the drier maybe I missed that.

You might want to look for a kink in the suction line. Look where it comes out of the cabinet, it is rare but I have seen it happen.

Pretty sure you have some type of compound problem: low charge-leak, restriction hiside or lo side ....

Originally Posted by primmers

HA! 15 year olds stuff is new in my area!!

A lot of my equipment is on or near the beach, so 15 years equals major corrosion. I forget that equipment in other climates probably fairs much better. Of course,kitchens for instance, tend to be corrosive environments no matter where you are.

HA! 15 year olds stuff is new in my area!!

FYI, Bev-Airs can be a PITA to leak detect. I had one this summer that got the best of me and I was forced to admit defeat and sent it to the junkyard! In my defense, it was 15 years old.

I work on Bev-Airs everyday. Not familiar with that particular unit but sounds like a leak. Restricted condition is probably due to moisture icing up in cap tube. It's imperative to pull a deep vacuum (300-500 mics) on these systems. Break the vacuum with nitro a couple times to get there. Pull all the insulation off the line set and see if your leak is there first. I find leaks there a lot. If the copper is badly corroded, the line set should be replaced from comp to cabinet. Hope this helps.

Originally Posted by primmers

jared why not puff up the system with the 134a in it?? r22 is like gold now....

We're talking about 1-2 oz max. The reason you use R22 is because most leak detectors pick it up very good.

Originally Posted by primmers

there was no inulation on the suction line...

has anyone had any success with the leak sealers you blow into a system?

I have tryed stop leak on a couple of systems, it didn't cause any problems, but it also didn't work. If the leak is that big it might not help.

$ a bottle in my neck of the woods.....

r22 isn that expensive and you wont be using that much

jared why not puff up the system with the 134a in it?? r22 is like gold now....

Originally Posted by primmers

there was no inulation on the suction line...

has anyone had any success with the leak sealers you blow into a system?

I would only do this as an absolute LAST resort. And after describing to the customer how much it can screw up the system.
In fact, I actually wouldn't do this at all. Unless the customer insisted and I had a can left on the truck I was trying to use up.

You need to determine if this thing has a leak or is just restricted. You have a good leak detector, so a shot of 22 and 150# of nitrogen you should be able to find the leak.

As mentioned, most likely evap accumulator or evap tubing where the fins are crimped around.

Originally Posted by primmers

there was no inulation on the suction line...

has anyone had any success with the leak sealers you blow into a system?

Im wondering the same thing on the leak sealers .

there was no inulation on the suction line...

has anyone had any success with the leak sealers you blow into a system?

thanks guys...the cooler has never had any kegs in it while ive been there..

beenthere, i deleted this thread but it wouldnt delete..