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Thanks Jim.
It finally got here. I was confused because the temp probe wires were heat-shrinked to the hoses so that the plug didn't reach the unit, and there was no place on the bottom of the unit to plug it in.

Then I put batteries in it and the display said it was a model 105, not 125.

Can this be used to adjust a burner?
With a 125, I would have checked the flue O2 and seen if I could get it down to 6% with a decent CO number.

With just a CO readout, I don't know what, if anything, to do with that information.

EDIT: I took it outside, zeroed it, stuck it in the vent and turned the furnace on.
It read 0 ppm CO until the burners lit, climbed to about 340, and quickly settled down to 26, eventually leveling off at 21 ppm two or three minutes later. Does this tell me anything other than my furnace isn't dangerous?

The fyrite pro is now obsolete. The slow pump is a problem in some cases but unless you are testing oil it is okay. The O2 sensor is about $160 and you just install it yourself. I would say it is worth it to fix if everything else is in good shape. CO sensors last up to 10 years but do need to be calibrated or checked every year.

I bought a used Fyrite Pro 125 on the net before reading this thread.

Is the slowness of the pump the only reason why they aren't very popular here?

Would it be a good tool for a DIY to make sure his propane furnace isn't underfired?

If the O2 sensor is dead, is it worth fixing?

Has anyone had to change the thermocouple on the 327? Mine stopped working new one arrives Monday.

Thanks. The pump came apart easily. I saw no dirt or any other problem with the diaphragm or reeds. I put it back together and now it works fine. I wonder what I did that fixed it.

Thanks again for your help.

https://www.nationalcomfortinstitute.com/index.cfm?

Originally Posted by Jim Davis

Usually the class will be at our training center in Sheffield Lake. You can check our website for the details for registration or just call the office.

Ok thanks. What is the website address ?

Originally Posted by gpjazz1023

When and where is this course scheduled in march ? And do you have some info on registering to attend ? Thanks

Usually the class will be at our training center in Sheffield Lake. You can check our website for the details for registration or just call the office.

Originally Posted by Jim Davis

Well it depends on what you mean by soon. There is one scheduled in March. I am available for questions and advice anytime.

When and where is this course scheduled in march ? And do you have some info on registering to attend ? Thanks

Originally Posted by jjou812

I took out the pump but couldn't figure out how to get it apart without breaking it. Is there a way of squeezing it to separate the halves?

There are four legs that snap into the end of the pump. You have to stick a heavy paperclip in the hole in the end and loosed one side carefully and then the other while trying not to break the tabs. It is simple once you do it. Worst case send it to me and I can fix it.

I took out the pump but couldn't figure out how to get it apart without breaking it. Is there a way of squeezing it to separate the halves?

Originally Posted by Hvac216

Jim, are you offering the nci class in the cleveland area anytime soon.

Well it depends on what you mean by soon. There is one scheduled in March. I am available for questions and advice anytime.

Originally Posted by Jim Davis

You will be upset if you switch analyzers. As Chuck said the pump just needs cleaning by taking it apart. There are little valves in there that get stuck. If it needs repair and calibration you need to send it to me at home. I calibrate and fix the pump for minimum cost.

Jim, are you offering the nci class in the cleveland area anytime soon.

Originally Posted by jjou812

I read somewhere that the 320 is made in germany and the 310 is made in china. Can anyone confirm this? I am considering replacing my 5.5 year old TSI 6130.

Has anyone seen this problem on the TSI: The readings sometimes don't change when I insert the probe in the flue, even though the sensors are recent, the pump is pumping, and the "plumbing" inside the meter seems to be okay. No error code. And yes I always disconnect the hose when not in use.

You will be upset if you switch analyzers. As Chuck said the pump just needs cleaning by taking it apart. There are little valves in there that get stuck. If it needs repair and calibration you need to send it to me at home. I calibrate and fix the pump for minimum cost.

Originally Posted by jjou812

I read somewhere that the 320 is made in germany and the 310 is made in china. Can anyone confirm this? I am considering replacing my 5.5 year old TSI 6130.

Has anyone seen this problem on the TSI: The readings sometimes don't change when I insert the probe in the flue, even though the sensors are recent, the pump is pumping, and the "plumbing" inside the meter seems to be okay. No error code. And yes I always disconnect the hose when not in use.

Can't say about the 310 but I believe the 320 is made in Germany. I didn't look for a "made in" on it but half of my paperwork on it including the calibration sheet are in German.

If you're worried about repeated holes in PVC or want a better access port, try this:

cut in a tee on the vertical leg just off the appliance and glue it in. Install a bushing with internal thread or use a reducing tee with internal thread. Just try to get the snout down to about 3/4" internal thread. Install removable pvc plug.

Two options for testing- you can carry a threaded plug of your own with a hole for your analyzer pre-drilled through the middle or, use a Fernco cap with the hole punched in it. Apply temporary plug or cap, test, then reinstall threaded plug. AHJ shouldn't have a problem with that. I like the Fernco option as its quick and holds my probe better.

Originally Posted by jjou812

I read somewhere that the 320 is made in germany and the 310 is made in china. Can anyone confirm this? I am considering replacing my 5.5 year old TSI 6130.

Has anyone seen this problem on the TSI: The readings sometimes don't change when I insert the probe in the flue, even though the sensors are recent, the pump is pumping, and the "plumbing" inside the meter seems to be okay. No error code. And yes I always disconnect the hose when not in use.

I will gladly buy the TSI from you. Sometimes the pump diaghrams sticks and you have to take it apart and clean them.

I read somewhere that the 320 is made in germany and the 310 is made in china. Can anyone confirm this? I am considering replacing my 5.5 year old TSI 6130.

Has anyone seen this problem on the TSI: The readings sometimes don't change when I insert the probe in the flue, even though the sensors are recent, the pump is pumping, and the "plumbing" inside the meter seems to be okay. No error code. And yes I always disconnect the hose when not in use.

HAHA.....It's a multi-tap flue pipe. Choose the hole that fits your probe......

Originally Posted by gravity

Put a plug in it and drill another hole to your liking

thats an awesome idea! You're good.'' ``Well, I ... ``No! You're good!you you You're good.