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Look at the whole circuit. A bad spade on the thermostat could be the reason the connection burnt out at the element.

Manufacturers try to save money using wire that is too small, using none heat grade connectors. I have a coworker that replaces way to much wiring and stuff, but he does not have call-backs.

Cooked off connections are a constant source of service calls on cooking equipment.

I DO stick with the high temp terminals AND wire. In theory, conventional terminals and copper wire may expand and contract more readily with severe temperuture fluctuations. Hence, a loose connection develops that purpetuates into damaged, overheated connection.

New, high temp terminals and wire with a good, tight crimp and lug connection are critical. A new component (such as that element) would lend to a perfect repair - but I don't drive around with an array of spare elements on my truck. So, if not too badly damaged, I've polished the component terminal down to a bare, corrosion free metal surface to ensure a clean connection.

I DO prefer lug connections over spade (fast-on) connections. Any manufacturer that designs spade connected elements should consider hiring some new engineers.

look into stainless connectors. pretty high compared to other terminals, but they don't corrode as easy, and they make a tight connection.

Originally Posted by chilliwilly

Would that crimper be the one that crimps the uninsulated type that makes both sides roll into the middle of the wire? You know the type you see on factory made tail ends.

The one I use is a standard ratchet crimper that has 3 sizes on the jaws and won't crimp that sort of crimp.

I always find that the female spade connection is never tight and has to be squashed down prior to shoving it on the male spade, it lasts for a bit longer.

Strange, but I can't find the Jaws for the uninsulated connectors, have everything else RJ, Coax, and insulated jaw insert. Only problem I remember is trying to figure which way the terminal faced when using the crimper.

Heat causes oxidation, oxidation causes resistance, resistance generates heat and so on until something fails. Nickel plated connectors don't oxidize as quickly at high temperature compared to regular terminals, but if the wire is oxidized then all bets are off.

Originally Posted by Joe Harper

When I crimp the wires I use the inside of my linemans pliers. Its not pretty as it is flat, but the connector stays attached to the wire.

My all time favorite tool.....

When I crimp the wires I use the inside of my linemans pliers. Its not pretty as it is flat, but the connector stays attached to the wire.

Originally Posted by madhat

You need an Ideal CrimpMaster, with the non-insulated crimp jaws, also I second soldering. Fluxed, used StayBrite on the wire, crimped, fluxed and hit with a tiny bit of StayBrite. I used a Butane solder iron, since you can use them anywere. They are nice for Board repair, as they don't generate static like the AC Irons do.

Would that crimper be the one that crimps the uninsulated type that makes both sides roll into the middle of the wire? You know the type you see on factory made tail ends.

The one I use is a standard ratchet crimper that has 3 sizes on the jaws and won't crimp that sort of crimp.

I always find that the female spade connection is never tight and has to be squashed down prior to shoving it on the male spade, it lasts for a bit longer.

I've found most of the burnt off wires I have encountred are caused by a loose connect somewhere else in the circut.drawing high amps.
make sure everythings tight and in good condition, if it looks iffy repair it with Hi-Temp terminations and Hi-Temp wire if it needs replacing

End of call backs for me.

You need an Ideal CrimpMaster, with the non-insulated crimp jaws, also I second soldering. Fluxed, used StayBrite on the wire, crimped, fluxed and hit with a tiny bit of StayBrite. I used a Butane solder iron, since you can use them anywere. They are nice for Board repair, as they don't generate static like the AC Irons do.

Johnstone sells a nice kit just for high temp

had to go to the shop this pm to find some obsolete parts & found an
un opened roll of 250 ft. # 12 high temp wire & a metal terminal box full of shiney
terminals.. almost makes me want to do the hot side again.

I 2nd that on the high temp nickel plate wire, and I believe there are non insulated crimp on connectors that are nickel as well and are made for high temp. I know my boss always kept a supply of them on our trucks for high temp stuff...I just liked them cuz they are nice and shiny..lol...jk

Originally Posted by mixsit

Don't know if 'kitchen environment effects are an added factor -but in general all power crimps (especially replacement after overheating), is getting back to clean metal. I'll straighten the twist out and separate the strands to get a fine wire brush in there and a wipe clean, then re-twist prior to crimping.

Second that. If you can not strip to clean, replace the wire. Nickel.

i have a few ovens with grill tops i work on and although i don't get the High Temp Terminal ends i just get the uninsulated ones and never had a problem, also i use stainless steal nuts and bolts (if its a ring terminal)

these grill tops are around 600 deg F

solder the wire to the connector, takes a few mins but will help prevent call-backs. Dont forget to use ceramic wire nuts if you have to splice wires. Thanks to the recession I started working on cooking equipment. Damn, I had it easy before.

Don't know if 'kitchen environment effects are an added factor -but in general all power crimps (especially replacement after overheating), is getting back to clean metal. I'll straighten the twist out and separate the strands to get a fine wire brush in there and a wipe clean, then re-twist prior to crimping.

Crimp on connectors cooking off... hmmm...

Due to the glorious recession I've been doing more kitchen service work.

So I'm running into failed crimp connectors or rather failed wire at connector on steam tables and other resistance heat element controls and the element themselves.

Other than high temp crimp connectors what other good practices need to be done or is this just the reality of kitchen equipment?

Thanks everyone!