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I haven't seen this result but I can imagine if someone installed the dryer in the wrong location, eventually it'll work it's way out to the dryer. I've seen it more than once that a tech has taken out the "dryer muffler" and install a new dryer. I suppose under certain surcomstances, the beads could sit in the condenser and at some point move through. I'd look for signs that the discharge line doesn't look original.

Originally Posted by J_Bridge

And sporlan does use on the normal driers, a solid core 30 micron (which does most all the filtering) then a mesh screen 40 micron and the pad that is 20 micron. The screen and the pad are just as a precaution(oveer kill).

The pad was added to stop vomiting everything it had filtered around the end of the core as ALCO's filter/drier demo showed.
I'm wondering how long the pad holds up since it is the only thing stopping the crud from being spewed back into the system. Looks like they didn't fix the design flaw, they just plugged it with a 20 micron maxi-pad.
They also said 20 micron was to low for filtration and Copeland had required that level of filtration to make them look bad.
They caught the crud but then burped it up when the pressure backed off the core. I'd say that excuse doesn't hold up either.
At least after all the excuses they did do something. Time will tell if it works.

Originally Posted by J_Bridge

Sporlan C052capt-tt-hh drier is specificall designed for cap tube systems with wax issues. It has carbon, solid core, strainer and felt pad. Sporlan made it for these specific issues.

And sporlan does use on the normal driers, a solid core 30 micron (which does most all the filtering) then a mesh screen 40 micron and the pad that is 20 micron. The screen and the pad are just as a precaution(oveer kill).

I'm not familiar with that dryer but will definitely check it out. Thanks for the tip.

Just on the outlet from what was understanding from sporlan

Do these driers have a screen and pad on both sides?

Sporlan C052capt-tt-hh drier is specificall designed for cap tube systems with wax issues. It has carbon, solid core, strainer and felt pad. Sporlan made it for these specific issues.

And sporlan does use on the normal driers, a solid core 30 micron (which does most all the filtering) then a mesh screen 40 micron and the pad that is 20 micron. The screen and the pad are just as a precaution(oveer kill).

Last I checked sporland doesn't use a pad. I have never had an issue with that, I will check with my rep tomorrow on that though.

Question is if Sporlan fixed their solid core driers releasing the accumulated debris from around the end with the pad they added.
Anyone know?

I don't care, True mfg also sends out bullet driers. If you stop using a drier that sounds like it has sand in it you will nevet have an issue. My company always uses solid core driers, even if we have to pay for them. The assurance if not having a call back is priceless, both for you and your customer. And I don't ever recall a compressor mfg "copeland, danfoss or tecumeh" providing a drier. Now like I said earlier some oem will send the bullet ones out, but I am still saying "just dont risk it". The solid core will trap more and not break loose in the system, unless you drop it prior to installing it.

Originally Posted by J_Bridge

I am not trying to push one brand over another but you need to install a co52capt drier, its sporlan. Solid core with access ports, you can check your pressures. Those bullet driers aren't even recomended by the compressor mffg's or most valve companies, they fall apart. You need to just change the cap tube along with it, it is a policy where I work. It is too cheap to ensure no blockage or wax build up. The c052capt will help to clean some of the debris, but this all came from that dirty condensor. Bottom line, that was your issue. Channge cap tube and drier and pull a good micron vacuum and you will be set.

Your correct except for the dryer part. The compressor is a 1/3 hp and that is the dryer that comes in the box from Tecumseh.

I am not trying to push one brand over another but you need to install a co52capt drier, its sporlan. Solid core with access ports, you can check your pressures. Those bullet driers aren't even recomended by the compressor mffg's or most valve companies, they fall apart. You need to just change the cap tube along with it, it is a policy where I work. It is too cheap to ensure no blockage or wax build up. The c052capt will help to clean some of the debris, but this all came from that dirty condensor. Bottom line, that was your issue. Channge cap tube and drier and pull a good micron vacuum and you will be set.

Originally Posted by arnoldbta

are you saying that found rocks in the filter, or that you flushed rocks out of your liquid line????

When I cut the dryer out, the rocks (I'm characterizing them as that. Actually they crumbled to powder quite easily) were in the liquid line before the initial dryer screen. That's what prompted me to cut the dryer in half to investigate further.

Originally Posted by steve36558

Common on R134 freezer units with POE oil getting way too hot over long period of time. I found it common on BEV Air freezers that had dirty or low air movement across the condenser coil. Need to replace cap tube and drier

I see it all the time

are you saying that found rocks in the filter, or that you flushed rocks out of your liquid line????

Originally Posted by steve36558

Common on R134 freezer units with POE oil getting way too hot over long period of time. I found it common on BEV Air freezers that had dirty or low air movement across the condenser coil. Need to replace cap tube and drier

I agree with all of what you said with the addition of flushing out the condenser due to the rocks pictured in my hand being in the condenser outlet line before the dryer. I also think that the absence of any oil is unusual too. It's dry as desert sand. Of course, that's probably what the oil turned into.

Common on R134 freezer units with POE oil getting way too hot over long period of time. I found it common on BEV Air freezers that had dirty or low air movement across the condenser coil. Need to replace cap tube and drier

That is what a drier that was working suppose to look like. It was asked to do more that's when the unit quit.

A friend of mine had an employee of his working on a lawyer's package unit. He was changing out the compressor and installed the LL dryer on the hot gas line. It ran fine for 2 or 3 months before the dryer came apart inside and stopped up the system. The material in your system looks like desiccant beads to me.

Wax and POE.

Originally Posted by 2sac

Looks like you got yourself a meth lab.

Lol! I poured a fair amount of beads out of the dryer that were loose. They weren't crumbly at all. The rocks in my hand were in between the dryer and condenser before the dryer screen so I can't imagine that material traveling through the cap tube, evap, comp, & condenser to accumulate there. Cap tube cleared up about 6-8" up. Also it was very dry, no sign of oil whatsoever. Compressor still running quiet though. It's a 134a system and the condenser had enough wool on it to knit a sweater!