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I tend to agree with (tipsrfine). sounds as though you are pulling in attic air ! i would start there with the info givin!

For the life of me I can't figure out why anybody would change a compressor based on temp split and a perceived inefficiency. What gives?

Originally Posted by Gross

a properly ventilated attic should only be about 10 degrees warmer than the outside temp

You need to spend some time in Texas or Arizona. If that were true half the guys here would be without a job.

Originally Posted by airtime

I guess I've never been in a properly vented attic then. I was in one a few weeks ago that had a ridge vent, gable vents, and a powered fan/vent. It was 102 outside and over 130 in the attic.

sounds like a great way to get air out.....where is all the air coming in at? think of an attic like a chimney. it should have decent draft

Originally Posted by Gross

a properly ventilated attic should only be about 10 degrees warmer than the outside temp

I guess I've never been in a properly vented attic then. I was in one a few weeks ago that had a ridge vent, gable vents, and a powered fan/vent. It was 102 outside and over 130 in the attic.

At least he didn't call us Gruppy.

Like the other post said need more info...

Originally Posted by wsykes

That's good that you weighed in according to data plate but other factors
may require more charge such as length of line set etc,

I think that its a packaged unit.

Make sure the condenser coil is clean.

Originally Posted by TWEEKKIN

50 HX-036 CARRIER i recently replaced my compressor thinking it was in efficient because during the day im only getting 10 degree split. i weighed in exactly what the data plate calls for, checked my pressures and wouldnt u know it 10 degrees difference during the day 20 at night. W T H

That's good that you weighed in according to data plate but other factors
may require more charge such as length of line set etc,

Maybe if you posted a full set of system operating conditions, we would be more able to assist you.

With the limited information that we have, it is difficult to make any educated guesses.

Originally Posted by Gross

beer can and no bubbles....

Well there's the problem. No science = no solutions. The days of guessing at solutions are long gone now. You need to put the science behind it and the you'll know what the problem is.

Originally Posted by Tiger93rsl

Whats your superheat and subcooling? And what type of expansion device is being used?

beer can and no bubbles....

Originally Posted by TWEEKKIN

NOT SURE HOW TO GET IT ALL IN ONE AREA. I LIVE IN ARIZONA ATTIC TEMP 200 PLUS DEGREES

a properly ventilated attic should only be about 10 degrees warmer than the outside temp

Whats your superheat and subcooling? And what type of expansion device is being used?

NOT SURE HOW TO GET IT ALL IN ONE AREA. I LIVE IN ARIZONA ATTIC TEMP 200 PLUS DEGREES

IM TAKING SUPPLY AND RETURN TEMPS AT THE UNIT ITSELF. NO EXCESSIVE HEAT IN RETURN 80 DEGREES 70 SUPPLY. SUCTION SWEATING ALL THE WAY BACK TO THE COMPRESSOR BUT NOT FREEZING

You likely have return leaks from the attic. During the day, take a temp reading near your t-stat and then go take a temp reading of the air in your return somewhere near where it enters your air handler/avap coil. Is there a big difference? Is your ductwork in the attic? You probably have the same deltaT across your evap coil, say 20 degrees, it's just that the return air temp during the day is picking up additional heat.Not to mention the additional heat gain from the attic to your supply duct air.

10 DEGREE SPLIT BY DAY 20 AT NIGHT

50 HX-036 CARRIER i recently replaced my compressor thinking it was in efficient because during the day im only getting 10 degree split. i weighed in exactly what the data plate calls for, checked my pressures and wouldnt u know it 10 degrees difference during the day 20 at night. W T H