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Originally Posted by 54regcab

I ran into a furnace last week and took a snapshot of the label 100K input, 80k bonnet capacity. The bonnet can handle 80k but has a 100K firing rate? What technically is the "bonnet" of a furnace anyways? I've only seen this term used on the really old stuff.

It's the way furnace manufacturer's used to rate furnaces, but is not an actual efficiency rating. Ratings were done with an 85% temperature rise and stack temperatures were allowed to be tested at 550 degrees. All furnace inputs were given a nominal output bonnet rating of 80%, based on the high temperature differentuals and the high flue gas temperatures. Bonnet capacities had nothing to do with efficiency ratings as they do in the methods of testing furnaces today.

Its the output of the furnace.

Originally Posted by RoBoTeq

Not really. Older furnaces, ones that do not use induced draft blowers, are rated differently. Bonnet capacity ratings are not actual efficiency ratings, but is the maximum amount of heat that furnace bonnet can handle. Most furnaces just prior to induced draft furnaces were in the 65-70 percent efficiency rating.

I ran into a furnace last week and took a snapshot of the label 100K input, 80k bonnet capacity. The bonnet can handle 80k but has a 100K firing rate? What technically is the "bonnet" of a furnace anyways? I've only seen this term used on the really old stuff.

Saw another one of these Carriers recently with low airflow. 200 degree limit switch, looks like it had been recently replaced. Anbody know what the OEM temp is on the high limit switch? I thought they were about 160, but I'm not sure. I suspect a landlord may have swapped the limit to prevent the furnace from kicking off due to low airflow instead of cleaning the nasty A-coil and blower.

Originally Posted by KCJN832

This is one more step in giving "big brother" control over every aspect of your life. There is No such thing as a free lunch, to quote a famous economist. The customer gets a "free" t-stat that they can override at any time and pay more; why buy into the peak power pricing scam in the first place, just one more way for the power companies to squeeze more money from the customer, and the government WILL piggyback into the home and control more and more.
I may be wrong about the pricing scheme, but there is no way i am going to allow any outside entity control of what goes on inside my home.
Well there may be some way, but I refuse to even start down that path.

The NEST thermostat has the same Big Brother aspects to it, only the scam/marketing hype is that by paying for the NEST, you will save on energy costs. This is true, but at the cost of comfort.

Originally Posted by KCJN832

This is one more step in giving "big brother" control over every aspect of your life. There is No such thing as a free lunch, to quote a famous economist. The customer gets a "free" t-stat that they can override at any time and pay more; why buy into the peak power pricing scam in the first place, just one more way for the power companies to squeeze more money from the customer, and the government WILL piggyback into the home and control more and more.
I may be wrong about the pricing scheme, but there is no way i am going to allow any outside entity control of what goes on inside my home.
Well there may be some way, but I refuse to even start down that path.

The peak pricing program and thermostat are VOLUNTARY. Sure there are big brother skeptics, and they don't have to join the program. Customers just have a CHOICE of how they want to pay for their power. They can pay an averaged fixed rate 24/7 like they have done in the past, or pay less when power costs less and pay more when it costs more. Customers even a "try before you buy" option for the 1st summer, if the VPP rates cost more the first year than they would have paid on the old plan, OG&E refunds the difference. Time of use and VPP rates are the way of the future, it will be on most utilities sooner or later.

The thermostat is OPTIONAL, customers can get one installed for free if they want one. Customers can be on TOU or VPP pricing with or without the OGE thermostat. We leave their old thermostat with them just in case they ever want to put it back on. The choice of thermostat and VPP program is always the customers, they can switch any time they want to.

We are on the program and have the thermostat at our own house, it saved us $150 last summer. The program is NOT for everybody, but it can work well if you are willing to use less power during peak times and use more during off peak times.

Originally Posted by 54regcab

The thermostat has a demand response feature that works in conjunction with variable peak power pricing program. The idea is the temperature will automatically adjust according to the customers preferences when energy prices increase during the 2-7pm time period June 1 - Sept 30. The customer always has final control of the thermostat and can overide at any time. If the customer overides, they just pay for the extra energy used. The Smarthours program is 100% voluntary as so is the thermostat.

This is one more step in giving "big brother" control over every aspect of your life. There is No such thing as a free lunch, to quote a famous economist. The customer gets a "free" t-stat that they can override at any time and pay more; why buy into the peak power pricing scam in the first place, just one more way for the power companies to squeeze more money from the customer, and the government WILL piggyback into the home and control more and more.
I may be wrong about the pricing scheme, but there is no way i am going to allow any outside entity control of what goes on inside my home.
Well there may be some way, but I refuse to even start down that path.

Just got off the phone with Mr Bill. Couldn't believe how simple the solution was

Originally Posted by RoBoTeq

Some of the microswitches for some overflow switches are not designed to handle the entire load of the system, and so create low voltage issues that are sometimes difficult to trace for those who are not looking to the switch and wiring as being the issue. All of the switches will handle the outdoor contactor circuit.

I've seen this too, sometimes causing intermittent problems. And of course it always works fine when you are at the customers house.

Originally Posted by Mr Bill

I have sent 54, 3 emails to call me, he responded to one he said he got, I guess the other two with my phone number got lost in space. I have such a simple fix that all of you are going to wonder why in the heck did I not think of that. If any of you would like to know, just email me "email is in profile" and I will send you my number and you can call me. Make sure you have the diagram up and are looking at it and I will go from there.

Busy day, didn't have a chance to call.
I do want to know your simple fix though.

I have sent 54, 3 emails to call me, he responded to one he said he got, I guess the other two with my phone number got lost in space. I have such a simple fix that all of you are going to wonder why in the heck did I not think of that. If any of you would like to know, just email me "email is in profile" and I will send you my number and you can call me. Make sure you have the diagram up and are looking at it and I will go from there.

Originally Posted by beenthere

I hate when techs do that too. Just need to break the Y to the condenser.

Some of the microswitches for some overflow switches are not designed to handle the entire load of the system, and so create low voltage issues that are sometimes difficult to trace for those who are not looking to the switch and wiring as being the issue. All of the switches will handle the outdoor contactor circuit.

Originally Posted by RoBoTeq

I didn't even think about those who break the red wire with overflow switches. I guess that's because I keep trying to get them to stop doing that...

I hate when techs do that too. Just need to break the Y to the condenser.

Originally Posted by Mr Bill

10/4

Got the email,you should have a reply.

Originally Posted by 54regcab

Try resending the email.

10/4

Originally Posted by Mr Bill

Is the one in your profile a good address?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I get my notifications there, so it has to be a good address. Try resending the email.

Originally Posted by RoBoTeq

I didn't even think about those who break the red wire with overflow switches. I guess that's because I keep trying to get them to stop doing that...

We just break one of the condenser wires, so the customer can still have a fan to circulate the air, but either way as long as the system is not continuing to condensate your ok.

I have a simple fix without bypassing anthing on the board but 54 is not getting my mails, or his profile email is not good, or maybe he don't want to know.

Originally Posted by beenthere

Hard to say why anyone has more trouble with something then others have.

I use Honeywell.

And as you know, lots of companies around our area break teh red to the stat when they use a float switch in the econdary pan, and kill the power to the stat. Those stats don't have problems either.

The customer is still hot either way, it's just the thermostat that is provided to us goes blank when power is interrupted instead of showing everything is OK. Yes, we run a lot of blank stat calls in the summer for tripped overflow switches. If the overflow is set to just break power to the condenser the thermostat stays on. Customers that don't know if they have a unit or thermostat problem call us first since it's a free service call. If it's the thermostat we fix it for free, if it's the unit they call their HVAC company.

Originally Posted by RoBoTeq

So why is reg54 having so much trouble with the t-stats the energy company he works for installs? Shouldn't the same thing apply?

We have over 30,000 thermostats installed in our service area. Not that many give problems, although it seems that way when we get slammed with service calls after a cold snap.

Originally Posted by jtrammel

Kind of off subject, but what's the purpose of the power co installing a tstat in customers home. Can the power co control it and turn off their ac during peak hours and the customer gets $ off their bill or is it just for the "energy savings" of using a programmable stat for setbacks?

The thermostat has a demand response feature that works in conjunction with variable peak power pricing program. The idea is the temperature will automatically adjust according to the customers preferences when energy prices increase during the 2-7pm time period June 1 - Sept 30. The customer always has final control of the thermostat and can overide at any time. If the customer overides, they just pay for the extra energy used. The Smarthours program is 100% voluntary as so is the thermostat.