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Originally Posted by rustneversleeps

hey there ken, I'm mike I worked for O.U. in the a/c shop. Worked with Phil and Cecil

I know them well. We worked together at DWS.

hey there ken, I'm mike I worked for O.U. in the a/c shop. Worked with Phil and Cecil

Originally Posted by rustneversleeps

had to cut reversing valve out made job much easier and quicker

Had to cut out the reversing valve??!!
RVs are a pain to change - 4 pipes as compared to two on a compressor. And RVs are much touchier to braze, especially when you have to lean over the top of the unit to do so.
I'd much rather change a compressor than a reversing valve.

thanks for all the info guys had a weak start winding they replaced it with a scroll compressor still had 3 months on warranty. reto kit worked great and was covered also new scroll did not have heater so installed a belly band heater. had to cut reversing valve out made job much easier and quicker

First, get your post count up and apply for Pro status, so you can ask techncial questions in the closed Pro forums.

Second, you mentioned a hard start kit. It that kit uses a PTC, it will not be able to assist the compressor until it has fully cooled off. A potential relay hard start will assist EVERY time. So, you need to find out if you have a good hard start kit there.


Question: when the compressor fails to start, have you cut the power to the unit and ohmed out the windings? You could be going out on internal overload, so all you will get for resistance is OL.

Originally Posted by jnsrose

I love it when the mods joke around with each other. Shows there not always grumpy old dudes.LOL.

Beenthere is the old and grumpy one...... I am the not so much younger and handsome one....

Although he is the one with the picture of the booth girl last go around

I love it when the mods joke around with each other. Shows there not always grumpy old dudes.LOL.

may be slow to equalize

excellente'

Apology's in advance if this gets too technical for non pro area, feel free to move or delete it. (Like you need my permission... )

Here is a basic protocol for troubleshooting, I will use a compressor as an example -
-Talk to the homeowner and get as much info as you can about what happened & when
-kick on the unit
-Check the indoor & outdoor unit for anything obvious like loose/broken wires, mice, blown parts, ect.
-Start digging where you KNOW a component is good (eliminate by testing, not assuming)
-Work your way down the line until you find a failed component
-Once you find a problem find out what caused it. Is it wired correctly? Are all the connections solid? (on both ends!)
-Verify that everything after the failed component is working correctly
-Stand back & apply power
-Verify the unit is functioning normally
-Open the door, get on the floor, everybody walk the dinosaur!

Example:
I think I have a bad compressor. First I check the line voltage. If that's good, I kill power & check the contactor. Is it pulled in? Yes. When I remove the LV lead does it kick out? Yes. Then I ohm it, check continuity , and do a visual inspection of it & the wires. Alright, the contactor is good so I'll move on the the capacitor. I mark the wiring connections & pull it out of the unit. First do a visual inspection. Is it bulging, cracked, rusted beyond recognition? No? AWESOME! Grab your meter and check that bad boy out! It's testing good, but before I move on I better check to make sure it's the right size for the compressor. It is - Wicked! Now let's grab the wiring diagram and see if anything is wired "bass ackwards". Ok, wiring looks good, compressor ohm time. It ohms out ok, nothing is grounded, hmm electrically we are all there. I feel like I'm forgetting something....Oh, the fan! Alright, their is a little oil on the shaft but other than that it looks and spins ok. Time for juice! Kick the unit on and take your amp draws on all compressor & fan wires. Amp draws checkout...crap what next? Let's hook up the gauges and see what we get. Holy jeepers Batman! 45 psi suction and 450 psi liquid! I don't think the compressor is the issue! (shooting a mean look at the line drier...You got some splanin' to do Lucy!!)

Hope this helps! Next time give us more info & check out this link - http://www.grammarly.com/

nope before i started it i put a leash on it

Another question; When the compressor starts running do you have to chase it down?

Originally Posted by rustneversleeps

thanks kls-ccc my next post will have all the info.i needed to be taught how to ask question on here i think i got it now, thanks again

My post has nothing to do with how you ask the question, but questions you should be asking yourself before you asking anyone else.

It is all part of the proccess of diagnostics. 1st step is what is the sequence of operation? #2 where does that sequence stop?, why?

Yes, diagnostics can be more detailed than that, but often times it's that simple. Intermitant problem can be hard to reproduce but it still follows the same proccess. If you understand the sequence of operation and how each step properly operates, when you take all the measurements you will see what the problem is, without having to bring anyone else in.

thanks shaworth1 i should have knowin that, it will be part of my trouble shooting from now on. most of the time it's either grounded or open and makes for an easy call if the comp. is bad or not, i will remember comp. ohm's .Thanks for the info. and the reply

thanks kls-ccc my next post will have all the info.i needed to be taught how to ask question on here i think i got it now, thanks again

Tony voltage was 229 it is original capacitor and it is wired right. has voltage and no amp reading when contactor pulls in,when comp.does start it pulls about 11 amps .,everything works great runs about 10 mims cycles off on temp. when it don't come on i have power to comp. terminals but no load.

thanks rundawg for the info next time i post a question i will bring all the info,voltage,start amps,run amp,super heat,sub cool,ohm reading,compressor mod.#,unit mod.#,txv or piston, ahu unit mod.# all the history i know about . Boy,u guys sure did educated me on posting a question.Im still learning and will continue to lean, there is only one way to do things the right way. compressor has benchmark tag on it,not sure if that a brand or not.Most of the bristol comp. i have replaced had a raised bristol on them.I will check the comp. # and get back to u.Thanks again rundawg.

Originally Posted by Chris_Worthington

Then there is nothing wrong then, is there?

I got one of those Amp's at 7-11 and I feel better

Hope you had one for me too.

Originally Posted by beenthere

The amp meter said. Amps ok. ROFL

Then there is nothing wrong then, is there?

I got one of those Amp's at 7-11 and I feel better

Originally Posted by beenthere

The amp meter said. Amps ok. ROFL

Is that what the beep sound is???