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Originally Posted by pdrake65

If this is a Traulsen that is an issue. make and model of unit and the answer will be easier to figure out. ballasts can be a pain to understand even for an electrician.

IMO electricians understand very little

Originally Posted by thethomas4

Some reachins have the door switches in the door hinge.

If this is a Traulsen that is an issue. make and model of unit and the answer will be easier to figure out. ballasts can be a pain to understand even for an electrician.

Originally Posted by deux

I checked today. You still can buy a *wand* from any bulb supply house to check output.
I have one, but haven't used it for decades. I got snagged up on VO and HVO BULBS once and it drove me nuts. The wand didn't help with that VHO issue.

I think these non-contact testers trade convenience for False Positive or non-repeatable readings. And almost all contact voltmeters respond to Phantom Voltages.

I checked today. You still can buy a *wand* from any bulb supply house to check output.
I have one, but haven't used it for decades. I got snagged up on VO and HVO BULBS once and it drove me nuts. The wand didn't help with that VHO issue.

Some reachins have the door switches in the door hinge.

Originally Posted by oldtimer2

This may be a stupid question but, working on a reach-in today, no lites so I replaced the bulbs, still no lite. So I replaced the ballasts, still no lite. PLEASE LET THERE BE LITE!! Is there any way to check the ballasts and or tubes? 120 volts present at the ballast. I tried to check voltage at the socket, top and bottom =0 volts any ideas?

The only thing left besides the starters are the lamp sockets, the "tombstones."
Also make sure the index mark on the tube ends shows that the tube is fully rotated into the socket correctly.
On tubes with two pins on the end, there should be a few volts across the pins to heat the filament.
Also, some lamps don't start reliably unless the metal Ground Plane (the metal case) near the tube is grounded.

You have to also watch the bulb output HO or VHO ???? One works in the cold and one doesn't.
And what the others said about the starter. Unless they are electronic. Somedays you need 20 new starters find one good one. Watch for new duds in the starter area.

I've had bad connections/loose wires at the bulb sockets before that will drive ya nutz like this.

I didn't see a door switch
4 door reach-in, the lites on the left side are working
on the ballast, should I be able to read potential at the leads? 4leads for each lite

Some units have a thermostat running the lights

Originally Posted by oldtimer2

This may be a stupid question but, working on a reach-in today, no lites so I replaced the bulbs, still no lite. So I replaced the ballasts, still no lite. PLEASE LET THERE BE LITE!! Is there any way to check the ballasts and or tubes? 120 volts present at the ballast. I tried to check voltage at the socket, top and bottom =0 volts any ideas?

I look for dark spots at the ends of the tubes.

Also use a NCV tester to check for potential at the lamp ends.

I'm wondering if there is anything else in the circuit. Like a little miniature aluminum can looking gadget? I think its a starter if I remember correctly. (or something like that)

are the door switch contacts working properly?

reach-in lite problem

This may be a stupid question but, working on a reach-in today, no lites so I replaced the bulbs, still no lite. So I replaced the ballasts, still no lite. PLEASE LET THERE BE LITE!! Is there any way to check the ballasts and or tubes? 120 volts present at the ballast. I tried to check voltage at the socket, top and bottom =0 volts any ideas?