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Typically done through carrier current signalling, where they impose a high frequency data signal on the power lines to signal equipment within the household and vice-versa, this is also one of the ways they read the electric meters without rolling any trucks.

Originally Posted by icesoft

This....


I see no point in letting the PoCo cut off my A/C or H/P during peak periods, especially if my condensing unit is properly sized for the load... It would now take a lot longer for it to catch up than if they'd just let it run and maintain...

How is this accomplished? Some type of wireless modem or something?

This....

Originally Posted by tim79

... I tell them I control my castle and they do not.

I see no point in letting the PoCo cut off my A/C or H/P during peak periods, especially if my condensing unit is properly sized for the load... It would now take a lot longer for it to catch up than if they'd just let it run and maintain...

To the O/P, one other thing that runs in heating mode is the humidifier (if you have one)... I've once came across a no-heat call due to someone wiring the humidstat across the HUM terminals on the air-handler. Installing contractor had come out, couldn't figure it out, he handed the homeowner a handful of fuses (here you're gonna need these)...

power companys giving incentives to have control over the air conditioner is getting to be common although a free tstat or 40.00 dollars rebate per year is not a big enough incentive.

We got the power company to come out and put a new thermostat and I think he attempted to fix whatever was wrong even though it's not his job, but I wasn't there at the time. But he got the emergency heat to work, aux heat still does not. He said that there is probably a problem outside in the condenser.

I agree I would not let the power company have control of the electricity, but it's not my house.

i was taught to remove all control wires, use little popper as a resetable in line fuse
put amprobe on the 24volt wire at transformer, start attaching one control wire at a time as you energize its appropriate relay you will find the problem soon enough

I see the free stats that are given to my customers and they ask my what I think of them. I tell them I control my castle and they do not.

Originally Posted by JacJak

Update: Someone came to help figure it out and he said it's probably thermostat trouble. We had a new thermostat put in by our local power company for free, which enables them to turn off our power for a short time if needed.

Do you think it could actually be a faulty thermostat? All the wires seem to be hooked up correctly.

Also for pro membership I think I need 15 posts correct?

I would say that the recent hookup is more than a coincidence to your problem.

Screw the blown fuse. THIS

Originally Posted by JacJak

We had a new thermostat put in by our local power company for free, which enables them to turn off our power for a short time if needed.

would be my concern. I'm curious to the reasoning and if this is something I have to look forward to in Al Gores America.

Yes. When you'll find guys a lot more giving with advice in the non-public forums.

Update: Someone came to help figure it out and he said it's probably thermostat trouble. We had a new thermostat put in by our local power company for free, which enables them to turn off our power for a short time if needed.

Do you think it could actually be a faulty thermostat? All the wires seem to be hooked up correctly.

Also for pro membership I think I need 15 posts correct?

Filing out your profile also helps us know who we are talking to.

As a new tech, you should apply for pro membership so we can help you in the pro forums. Most technical information is not discussed out here in the open.

Might want to check the stat wire for continuity se if there is a short in the stat wire

You need to determine when the fuse blows: on a call for heat or second stage heat, during defrost, or just when the stat is set to "heat". If it's a Rheem product, could be the reversing valve circuit, since they energize in heat. You appear to have eliminated the aux heat control. Likely not the red wire or the fuse would blow in either mode. Check continuity on the "white" wire to common for low resistance. Based on the info you've provided it's the best bet for now.

Is reversing valve energized in heat mode? What brand condenser does your dad have?

Originally Posted by dandyme

it's being caused by a short circuit; now it is in your best interest to ask a co-worker or an instructor to give you guidance on the proper procedure to determine where that short is.

good advice!

I will give this fine piece of advice. Fuses do not go bad.

You have a direction follow the road stillyout find the trouble

it's being caused by a short circuit; now it is in your best interest to ask a co-worker or an instructor to give you guidance on the proper procedure to determine where that short is.

Fuse keeps blowing

My dad has a heat pump, when the heat is turned on the 3 amp fuse on the 24V red wire off the transformer is blown, a/c is fine. The transformer was replaced, the blower contactor reads 10 ohms across the coil, the backup heat contactor reads 15 ohms. Both work when contactor is pushed in.

Someone told me that one would check all the low voltage wires to see if they are shorted. Does that mean one would disconnect the wire at both ends (at the thermostat being one end) and then check it to ground, hoping to read OL? Since it's the heat not working, either the white or red wire would be shorted, correct?

Could it also be a motor problem?

I'm only a few months deep in this trade and I'm curious.