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Originally Posted by kklobas

test voltage to relay- then you can jumper from run to start for a second (with capacitor if used).you have manually checked relay. fool proof.

Yep.

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test voltage to relay- then you can jumper from run to start for a second (with capacitor if used).you have manually checked relay. fool proof.

Originally Posted by 2sac

Company supplied UEI HA1

i never even seen one before. looks cool. is it well worth it. do you use it often or only when your meter is giving a funky reading? im interested in it. what are some of the strong point about it? does it meg the comp windings too?

LOL, that capital thing needs to quit! I guess you got it going?

Isn't it a lot of extra work to begin EVERY word with a capital letter????

Originally Posted by PMARS2345

Which analyzer do you have?

Company supplied UEI HA1

Originally Posted by 2sac

What's the amp draw on start up? May I suggest, from now on when you feel the need to replace a start component, replace all of them. May I also suggest you invest in a compressor analyzer

Which analyzer do you have?

Well I Just Talk To Tecumseh Tech Support And I Was Right! By Checking The Old Relay I Was Getting Continuity When I Should Not Which Was 1 & 2 (top and bottom connecting points) On The Relay!

He Also Told Me How To Check The Coil By Putting On Lead Of My Meter inside The Run Connection And The Other Lead To The Top Connector Which Is 2 And It Read Continuity!

Now I Check The Switch By Putting One Lead To The Start Pin In The Front And The Other Lead On The Bottom Which Is 1 And I Read No Continuity!

Why not just install a 3 n 1 on the compressor. If it doesn't work replace compressor. Don't forget the filter drier.

If it's a current relay, which I assume it is, remember they are position dependent. They're usually marked to indicate "TOP". In the correct position you should get no continuity between the line terminal and the start terminal. Invert it and you will.

Also, you didn't mention checking the overload protector...or hearing it trip.

Hey Might Have Anwser My Own Question Please Correct Me If I'm Wrong!

I Check The Old Relay And I Had Continuity Through 1 & 2 And that Would Indicate That The Switch Is Stuck Close Because It Only Should Close When A Inrush Of Current Enter It!

I Have A Brand New One Here And I'm Not Getting Any Continuity On It! Would This Indecate That The Old Relay Is Bad?

Damn I Never Check The Amp Draw!!! And That's HVAC 101!

I Was Working In A Cramp Area And Was Rushing! I Just Trace Power To The Relay! But Is There A Way To Check If The Relay Or Overload Protector Is Bad?

What's the amp draw on start up? May I suggest, from now on when you feel the need to replace a start component, replace all of them. May I also suggest you invest in a compressor analyzer

Trouble Shooting Tips For A Perlick R-12 Unit

Hello,

I'm Working On A Perlick Draft Beer Unit And I Need Some Trouble Shooting Tips For The Compressor.

The Fan Will Come On But The Compressor Will Not. I Discovered That The Capacitor Was Bad I Replace It And It Did Not Start. I Trace Power To The Relay And I Need To Know How To Check The CSIR Relay To See If Its Bad And Also To Find Out If The Overload Protector Is Bad.

I Check The Compressor And It Seem Ok It Ohmn Out With Continuity On All Three Pins And I Even Check For Ground On Each Pin Nothing!

Please Someone Tell Me What I Might Be Over Looking?

Thanks