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Does your DV have safety switches on the glass?? I just ran across one that would drop out and I found the glass safety switch not making good contact. JB

My fireplace does the same thing but we have a t-couple. No electrics involved. I've replaced the thermocouple and it worked fine for about 4 months but now has started shutting off after about 5 minutes. I've even moved the thermocouple into the main flame so it's staying hot. I cleaned it and so far same prob.

There is a screw to the pilot line it's in tight. I was wondering what it did. Is it a flow regulator or something else? If I back it off there seems to be no change in the gas flow so I just left it in tight how I found it

Thank you

GByers, I have seen many problems with that remote control system, but after 3 years, it is 2 years overdue for servicing. Give a professional a call and get it done properly.

After 3 years with no service there could be various problems. Might need new pilot assembly, could just need a really good cleaning, loose wires, bad gas valve, etc... Need a trained tech to find the exact problem.

I am perplexed by my fireplace unit, too. I have a 584 Proflame Plus system with a remote. Actually, I have two units in the house, one upstairs and one down. The one down works fine. But, the one upstairs has had some problems. On that one I cleaned the air intake hole and now the pilot does stay on. BUT, when I turn the transmitter on and have it in remote mode, the flames work for awhile (so many seconds) and then the whole thing shuts down. It has worked when first purchased about 3 years ago. So any suggestions? I'm about ready to call a tech to come and check it, but wish I could fix the problem myself.

Thanks for any responses.

sounds like a venting problem. the venting could violate the mfg specs, thus causing it not to operate correctly. (Too many elbows, too much horizontal, etc...). Could be missing a restricter plate also.

I would hound the company that installed it until they get it working. Any decent place will stand by it until it is working 100% even if its out of its warranty.

We can't give DIY advice on this site, but if the unit is less than a year old and hasn't worked right from the beginning, you should not have to pay a dime! You paid for a properly installed and WORKING fireplace and if it's not working properly, the job's not done. I'd be raising h#ll with the installers if I were you. I'm a regency tech (just did another course and plant tour last week!) and know a decent tech should find the cause in about 1/2 an hour. At our last course, we had 9 simulations to troubleshoot and had a time limit of 10 min each. If it's a repeatable symptom, then it's not hard to figgure out.

Similar Problem

Hi all.

I've been reading through this forum and noticed that this seems to be very similar to my problem (the symtoms at least).

I have a Regency P36d gas fireplace, with a straight vertical vent and flat glass front. The unit was just installed last December. Pretty much from new I have had the problem where the burner and pilot will shut off within the first few minutes of turning it on. After going through this a few times (restarting the pilot)...and the unit has heated up, it will run fine. The problem only happens when the unit is cool.

A tech has been out a couple of times and apperantly replaced a part, of which I was not present to know which.

The unit was off during the summer (pilot shut off), now that I have started it back up again, the problem is more frequent. The original installer is going to call regency for me, but they want to charge me service charges now if they have to come out to troubleshoot the unit. (Pending that it is not a Regency warrenty issue, which I kind of doubt it is)

I personally beleive that it will be a similar issue to this thread and would rather solve the problem myself.

I am just wondering if anyone can make any suggestions for what I should check to see if it is a venting problem. (a good order to check things in maybe? what specifically should I look for in the pilot when it does go out? etc.)

(btw....sorry for the long reply post)

Thanks!

Mmmmm. Observing the pilot flame is an important part of diagnosing the problem correctly. If you couldn't see the pilot light with the logs in, the logs should have been removed and the glass reinstalled.

Thanks for the update, it's appreciated.

Finally fixed

Well I had another technician come out and this guy finally figured it out. He first replaced the thermocouple, thermopile, and pilot assembly. The problem still occurred. Next he measured the gas pressure, it was fine. Next he suspected venting. So, he removed the vent cover, sprayed it all out with compressed air and that did the trick. Apparently the venting was not allowing enough oxygen in, causing the pilot flame to come off the thermocouple causing it to cool down. It was a bit tricky because with the log in place we couldn't really see the thermocouple.

Thanks for everyone's ideas!

Not familiar with this make, but it sounds like it could be a vent safety switch tripping, breaking the mv circuit. And the switch may be doing it's job, reacting to a venting issue.

Google 'Marco fireplace recall' and see if it applies to the model [794] you have.

I'm assuming it's not a QD valve with t-pile AND t-couple, or a mercury vapor switch in the circuit?
Before the gas valve is replaced, an EPU check and an operating head check need to be done. EPU should be 0-13 ohms, and head should be 0-10.9 ohms. Any fireplace tech can check these quickly. Only if one of those readings is out should the valve be replaced.

Here's my latest attempts to solve this problem.

I disconnected the millivolt generator and instead connected in a .75 voltage supply (to make sure the thermopile wasn't the problem). After a few minutes, it kicked off again so I know the thermopile isn't the problem.

I also shorted the connections at the gas valve to take the high temp. cutoffs and wall switch out of the picture, and the problem still occurred.

I checked the pilot flame closely, and it stays in complete contact with the thermopile even when the burners all light.

So, I think I'm down to suspecting the gas valve. Unless there is some other sensor that can shut everything down. Is there more than one thermopile on these fireplaces?

I don't think it is a venting problem, because the flame doesn't flicker at all prior to it clicking off. If venting were the issue, then I would expect to see the fire dance around strangely before it died.

Does anyone know where I can get a detailed spec of the gas valve - it is a RobertShaw 7000MVRLC. When I go to the RobertShaw website, I don't see any specs there.

Still stumped.

I agree I have seen the combustion air plugged with lint and stuff. Also check the air holes on the pilot assemble itself some are also prone to becoming clogged causing a weak pilot.

May not be the problem, but there is a combustion air vent on one or both sides of the burnner. Fairly small slots that meter the air to the flame. These will clog up with lint/dust, especially in a bedroom, and might cause the fire to draw away from the thermocouple. Or maybe there is another type safety on this. But look real close at the sides of the burner. Hard to see and hard to detect the clogged area.

why did you not post this in the fireplace forum?

Did the mv drop below 279 when it finally cut out?

200- 250 mv is about as low as you would want to see when the main valve is on. I would try replacing the wall switch. If that doesn't help then you are only out a few bucks and a little time.

Typically the wall switch for the fireplace used is the incorrect one, (for 120 volt), not the millivolt (with silver contacts) and the resistance gets worse over time because it is not designed for a fraction of a volt.

95% of the time its not the gas valve thats the problem.

If that doesn't solve it and he replaces the gas valve I would hope they will eat that time replacing a good gas valve.

It could be any number of things as pointed out by others here.

Could be anything from a bad EPU on gas valve to a weak vent safety/hi limit switch to high circuit resistance. There is a proper testing sequence that will tell you if the components themselves are working. A good tech should be able to run through it in 1/2 hour. (barring any damaged or corroded fasteners) If everything checks out then it is a matter of observation and experience to determine the problem. If the problem can be repeated while the tech is there, he should be able to determine the cause. It's the ones that only happen AFTER you leave that get you. If he was there for 2 hours with a repeatable problem, you need another tech!