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I have used it on R-22, R134a, R404A and R507A. On units that used R-1150 and 1270 I used Big blue.
Originally Posted by rdholder I now use a Fieldpiece SRL2K7 Infrared Refrigerant Leak Detector Superior Sensitivity. Finds leaks of 0.1-oz./yr. Doesn't trigger on oil or moisture like other sensors. What refrigerants are you using it with?
Originally Posted by ChristopherNJ gray and blue one. Are you a professional member? There is a very enlightening thread in the Pro's refrigeration and ice making forum.
I now use a Fieldpiece SRL2K7 Infrared Refrigerant Leak Detector Superior Sensitivity. Finds leaks of 0.1-oz./yr. Doesn't trigger on oil or moisture like other sensors.
Originally Posted by jpsmith1cm At 2 years old, it should be a good one. Is it a grey and black model or the older white and blue one? gray and blue one.
Originally Posted by ChristopherNJ How do I know what version of the D Tek I have? I think I got it maybe a year ago, maybe 2 at the most. At 2 years old, it should be a good one. Is it a grey and black model or the older white and blue one?
The H10PM is very good. I have the JC branded one, not sure if they still sell it like that. I believe mine was manufactured by Hokagowa.
I believe mine is called a d-tek
I have found many leaks with an older Inficon Tecmate. That meter has payed for itself several times over. I recently upgraded to the Dtek just because the Tecmate is getting older and wanted a backup.
How do I know what version of the D Tek I have? I think I got it maybe a year ago, maybe 2 at the most.
Alright Thanks guys I thought I was missing something here. From my experience with them an auto zero and manual zero are completely different .... not similar at all from a real world detecting POV. The option to turn off the auto zero then manually zero is a HUGE plus for the Inficon IMO. Auto zero is good in some cases but a complete most of the time for me.
Originally Posted by Inficon_TekSupport Using the set points (hi med low) changes the sensitivity to detect predetermined leak rates, and this combined with the auto zero function is very similar to the manual zero. When using the manual zero you do not have to wait for the unit to auto zero (usually 7-10 seconds for auto zero), you just press and hold the sensitivity button to manually zero the unit. I still think the Tek Mate at least the ones I have are the best bang for the buck out there.I bought several a few years ago just in case Inficon decided they would make it better. It is used primarily for 134,22 and 404. I do use a different sensor for 404 and it has found all the leaks that I had to find. I have yet to see another find 134 leaks as well as it does. Had a H10 but sold it as it was just too much hassle using mobile.
Originally Posted by itsiceman Ok Learn me something. How in the world is using the hi, medium and low sensitivities on a machine like a SRL2 that constantly auto zeros similar to the hold zero feature of the D-Tek Select. On the surface to me they couldn't be farther apart Using the set points (hi med low) changes the sensitivity to detect predetermined leak rates, and this combined with the auto zero function is very similar to the manual zero. When using the manual zero you do not have to wait for the unit to auto zero (usually 7-10 seconds for auto zero), you just press and hold the sensitivity button to manually zero the unit.
Originally Posted by RussellHarju I'm assuming the zero feature on the D-tek sets the "zero" point at when the buzzer will go off. If that is correct it's just setting it so the buzzer won't go off at a point lower than what you just measured. Setting the sensitivity on the SRL2 is similar. You can set the so called "zero" point with the sensitivity. So on low the buzzer won't go off on leaks smaller than approx .5 ounces. On medium it won't go off on leaks lower that .3 oz. etc. The auto zero function automatically zeros to the ambient conditions every 7 seconds. This means that the level of refrigerant that the unit is sensing will be the new base point, and anything below the level that it sniffs for 7 consecutive seconds will not set it off. The Manual zero does the same thing just instead of every 7 seconds, it sets the low point when you press and hold the sensitivity button. You can reset the manual zero by pressing and holding the sensitivity button in a known clean area (away from leak source) or by turning the unit off and on again.
Originally Posted by RussellHarju How often should we be replacing the sensors in the D-Tek select? The D-TEK Select has an auto calibrated self check system when it starts. When you need a new sensor, the unit will tell you by flashing all of the orange lights on and off. From a feasible time frame, if you take care of your unit and monitor the filters, I know techs that have used the same sensor for 7+ years.
Originally Posted by itsiceman Ok Learn me something. How in the world is using the hi, medium and low sensitivities on a machine like a SRL2 that constantly auto zeros similar to the hold zero feature of the D-Tek Select. On the surface to me they couldn't be farther apart I'm assuming the zero feature on the D-tek sets the "zero" point at when the buzzer will go off. If that is correct it's just setting it so the buzzer won't go off at a point lower than what you just measured. Setting the sensitivity on the SRL2 is similar. You can set the so called "zero" point with the sensitivity. So on low the buzzer won't go off on leaks smaller than approx .5 ounces. On medium it won't go off on leaks lower that .3 oz. etc.
Originally Posted by RussellHarju No. The turbo mode is a very hi sensitivity mode. Using the hi, medium and low sensitivities is similar to the hold zero feature. They have a different trigger point at each level. It's approx .5 for low, .3 for medium, .1 for hi, and .05 for turbo. Ok Learn me something. How in the world is using the hi, medium and low sensitivities on a machine like a SRL2 that constantly auto zeros similar to the hold zero feature of the D-Tek Select. On the surface to me they couldn't be farther apart
As others have stated, I work with R22 and R410a. With the d-tek or others is there a need to have diff. sensors for the 2 different ref.?
Originally Posted by FrostyBeer Russell, is this similar to the "turbo" mode on the SRL2? No. The turbo mode is a very hi sensitivity mode. Using the hi, medium and low sensitivities is similar to the hold zero feature. They have a different trigger point at each level. It's approx .5 for low, .3 for medium, .1 for hi, and .05 for turbo.
ahhhhh, I'm so torn between which leak detector to go with as this will be my first one..feels like the biggest discison ever! I'm leaning towards trying an I/R but just don't know. I honestly don't have my much experience with elec. leak detector's so I don't have any personal exp. to go by. I know this has been but I'm starting to lose sleep...jk sorta What would you experianced guys buy for your 1st? Also I mainly work on r-22 and 410a splits and RTU's under 10 tons
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