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Originally Posted by Reeferman

And for those times that a torch can't be used. Works great.

http://www.theinductor.com/index.php?m=41

That thing's sweet! such a good idea for use around rubber seals and bushings etc.

Every time I encounter a rusted bolt that I know is gonna be a ***** to remove I bust out the O/A. Heating AROUND the bolt until its just about cherry and IMMEDIATELY start trying to remove the bolt when the heat is taken away. I also make sure before I heat it up, that the wrench or w/e is going to fit perfectly snug on the head of the bolt.

If the bolt does brake or its a rusted stud like on a boiler header. I'll just go right to grinding it flat, drilling and tapping it.

I <3 my tap and die set.

Always use an oil too when drilling and tapping. When tapping, do one full turn and then back a half turn to break up the filings. When drilling, press down and drill slow. Just like a drill press.

And for those times that a torch can't be used. Works great.

http://www.theinductor.com/index.php?m=41

Originally Posted by ryan1088

Wow, interesting. Gonna have to remember all of these for the next time!

Done a similar thing made for steam like a wax do that and some heat and works great

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Originally Posted by chuckcrj

Try this.

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog

Those look good. They don't look like you can break them very easily. The price is right, too.

You guys are coming up with some awesome suggestions that I will add to my toolbox. Thanks! Keep it up! Maybe we can write a book on the finer points and nuances of removing broken stuff without pulling your hair out.

Kimball-Midwest Penetrating Oil. Smells like cherries, works like nothing you've ever seen. I blew up the front end in my old mud racing truck once, in the process of taking that apart, I had to remove the spindles. The first one I had to ram with a forklift to remove. The second one got a little spray of the Kimball-Midwest stuff, it came off with a couple light taps from a 16 ounce hammer. The stuff is magic in a can.

In this field, anything I've snapped off, I've just put another screw in right on top of it. I only do residential though.

Left handed drill bits are must, X2 on Snap on extraction products (been through many Snap on works and lasts) and X3 or 4 on the tranny fluid.

the candle wax trick works, I also never done my self but a friend in the marine industry uses ''Mint'' on aluminum.

Originally Posted by 71CHOPS

gotta shock them too.....a few good swift whacks with a hammer will sometimes break the rust.

Yes. A good impact wrench, one that you can feather the trigger to just get a steady slow hammer action works wonders too.

Originally Posted by Tech Rob

Broken link

Try this.

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog

gotta shock them too.....a few good swift whacks with a hammer will sometimes break the rust.

Broken link

As for extractors, I have tried a lot of different ones. So far these are the best I have used. http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....mp;dir=catalog

In automotive repair, and later in boiler and pump repairs, I have used the candle wax trick many times with success. It gets sucked into the threads like solder.

Guys, if you heat the tapping instead of the bolt you will get better results. When you heat something with a hole in it the hole gets bigger. If you heat the bolt more than the tapped piece, it gets tighter until the temps equalize.

Originally Posted by jpsmith1cm

Here's another that I've used with some success, particularly with fan shaft/hub assemblies.

Heat it up cherry red. Take a candle and smear it at the junction of the two parts.

Some of the wax will smoke off, but some will melt and flow between the parts, creating a lubricating film.

Wow, interesting. Gonna have to remember all of these for the next time!

Originally Posted by GT Jets

That is a trick that I believe came from the military. I believe I read it in a field handbook having to do with tank tracks or something (my granddad was a Screaming Eagle Paratrooper in WWII, I was never fortunate enough to be in the armed forces).

GT

I never knew where it came from.

I believe that I read it online somewhere.

Originally Posted by jpsmith1cm

Here's another that I've used with some success, particularly with fan shaft/hub assemblies.

Heat it up cherry red. Take a candle and smear it at the junction of the two parts.

Some of the wax will smoke off, but some will melt and flow between the parts, creating a lubricating film.

That is a trick that I believe came from the military. I believe I read it in a field handbook having to do with tank tracks or something (my granddad was a Screaming Eagle Paratrooper in WWII, I was never fortunate enough to be in the armed forces).

GT

For broken bolts that are not too rusted in I like to use a left twist drill bit to drill them out. Many times just the drilling force will be enough to back to broken portion out. Otherwise heat and patience normally work.

Here's another that I've used with some success, particularly with fan shaft/hub assemblies.

Heat it up cherry red. Take a candle and smear it at the junction of the two parts.

Some of the wax will smoke off, but some will melt and flow between the parts, creating a lubricating film.

Originally Posted by Tech Rob

Any particular brand or kind of transmission fluid??? I think I'm going to try this out.

I just bought the cheapest and it worked. I don't think it really matters.


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Originally Posted by caheiman30

He said a 50-50 mixture depending on the bottle that you are using. I would normally use WD40 but tried this and it worked alittle bit faster than WD40.

Any particular brand or kind of transmission fluid??? I think I'm going to try this out.