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It finally occurs to me. . .

If the melting connector is caused by high contact impedance and is a design defect, you can correct the defect by bolting the connector together rather than depending on connector spring tension to keep contact force high and contact impedance low.
A 4-40 or 6-32 machine screw should be just about right for this.

There is one screw on the back of the switch next to the connector. The Ford service manual says to remove the whole assembly with all the switches in it, so I don't know if you can get at the screw or not.

Reading on the net Ive seen where others have had the switches melt...

The fan runs smoothly though I have not checked amps.....and as for loose or unreliable connections....When I pulled the resistor pack out I noticed that all the connections on the plugs, male and female....were dirty and "corroded"...one rusted up.

Ive cleaned the resistor pack contacts as well as I can....

As far as getting to this switch.... the only way I could access the switch to pull the connector was to remove the radio and feel around for the latch then take my hand and bend it into a position I didnt know it would go into and wiggle and pull and pry the switch connector free.

I took a flashlight and mirror and looked up in there to see how the switch removes but couldnt tell much.

I used ac most of today and kept checking the wirenut connection I made.....it feels ok...

We actually have a regular mechanic...so when my boss and I can get together for a few minutes I'll just see if we can turn it over to the mech... its going to need a new switch and a connector...so maybe he can get it from some salvage yard contact and install it for us.

I just wondered if anyone had ever pulled one before....had a trick or something. Im still trying...when I got time..

I have not stopped since 6 this morning. Till now...lol and I aint done yet...just taking a coffee break. Of course now Im home...but sometimes its harder then my day job.

thanks for the replies...

just thought of this.... taking my digital camera and putting it in the radio opening and snapping some pics....might be able to see something I cant when Ive got my flashlight and mirror in there.....~:>

Just suck it up and get one of these.

Attachment 52962

I had to replace my switch this on my 98 E-250. Pretty easy. Just pulled the cover and changed it in autozones parking lot. Came apart easy because I caught the small fire while I was driving and shut it off. It is scary when you see smoke coming from behind you dash.

Melting means high contact impedance. One of these fans may pull 30A and 30A at 0.01 ohm is a lot of watts for a connector to dissipate.

There might be a recall on this switch or assembly. Check NHTSA and the Center for Auto Safety. Or, you can get a switch from Digi-key or Allied Electronics that is probably much more reliable.

You may find that the fan motor is pulling too much current because of worn bearings.

Originally Posted by timebuilder

Let us know if you find an open resistor. I never had one in the hundreds of E's and F's I worked on.

But, there is a first time for everything.

I had to replace the one on my old 2000 E150. Also one on my 2001 Express 2500.

OK, this evening I finally got a chance to check this out.

Actually ...this morning I pulled the battery and battery tray and got to the resistor pack.

Everything seems fine with the resistors.... All contacts were corroded and the studs thatthe resistors mount on...and the resistor leads themselves are corroded a little...

Cleaned on these connections for a while then had to slap it all back together.

I got sent on a call and had to toss everything back together...didnt get back to the shop till late in the a noon....

Went out there tonight and pulled the radio then got the plug off the fan switch. The fan switch and connector have melted.

I did a little checking with my meter and a jumper wire and ended up jumping out the common ground to the med high speed wire.... they are all grounds....evidently ford uses a single speed motor and the resistors in series with the ground thru the switch....control motor speed.

I wire nutted the wires together and then just sat out in the van for about 30 minutes...cleaning the cab...looking thru some of my books and papers....all the while feeling the connection to see if it was getting hot.

It got warm....but no warmer than a would think a factory wire and connection would get pulling those fan amps.

Anyone got an easy way to get the switch itself out ??? Just getting the connector out almost needed three hands...but I finaly got it..... Used a mirror and flashlight to try and see how the switch is mounted but I cant see anything....anything usefull... tried pulling it out and it wont come.....

Im fine with my fix for now....but Im going to have to replace that switch....

same prob....

Originally Posted by corny

Anyone know where this located on a 2002 Ford van.

My blower only works on the lowest speed setting...which from my reading would mean that either the switch or the blower resistor pack is bad.

Ive been reading on the net and I see more hits about blower resistor packs being bad than selector switches being bad so Im wanting to hunt down the resistor pack and check it.

I know its supposed to be somewhere in the ducting off the blower but was hoping someone could help me pinpoint it.

I did see a wiring harness going to the blower housing itself... so Im thinking it could be it... I just hate taking things apart on a company van but I gotta get this fixed before long or I wont have a defrost.

Also, I keep reading on the net about fans being stuck on high when the resistor pack goes bad but my fan is stuck on low...

Just throwing this out there in case anyone else with an older Ford has run into this problem... No biggie.... I'll just start ripping things apart in the morning....lol

thanks

on my 02 explorer , use a mirror and check under the blower motor , it is held in with 2 screws and will be the hardest job you can imagine. mine stayed on low speed until high and then worked on high. i did it my self 'cause ford wanted $130.00 to inst. a $17.00 part..good luck..Jack

Originally Posted by corny

Also, I keep reading on the net about fans being stuck on high when the resistor pack goes bad but my fan is stuck on low...

Hmm, that is what my '03 E350 does. I've been living with it for over a year now, but you've inspired me to fix it.

Let us know if you find an open resistor. I never had one in the hundreds of E's and F's I worked on.

But, there is a first time for everything.

Your welcome.

I found it. It is right on the end of the blower housing...

Just got to remove the battery and the battery tray to get to that bottom screw....lol

great.

thanks

On the 1999 It is located behind the battery on the wall. You must remove the battery and the battery tray to gain access. It is held in with two 5/16 screws.

First look behind the A/C accumulator .

Ford E-150 blower resistor pack

Anyone know where this located on a 2002 Ford van.

My blower only works on the lowest speed setting...which from my reading would mean that either the switch or the blower resistor pack is bad.

Ive been reading on the net and I see more hits about blower resistor packs being bad than selector switches being bad so Im wanting to hunt down the resistor pack and check it.

I know its supposed to be somewhere in the ducting off the blower but was hoping someone could help me pinpoint it.

I did see a wiring harness going to the blower housing itself... so Im thinking it could be it... I just hate taking things apart on a company van but I gotta get this fixed before long or I wont have a defrost.

Also, I keep reading on the net about fans being stuck on high when the resistor pack goes bad but my fan is stuck on low...

Just throwing this out there in case anyone else with an older Ford has run into this problem... No biggie.... I'll just start ripping things apart in the morning....lol

thanks