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Topic Review (Newest First)

  • 07-06-2011, 05:36 PM
    Lash
    Gripples are the best thing since sliced bread. I remember when we used to use hanger strap for hanging smaller round duct. What a PITA. We still use rods and saddles/tear drops for larger duct in the range of 18-24" and larger. When the duct gets too heavy for the small surface area of the cable it will actually put a kink in it where the cable chokes around the pipe.
  • 07-05-2011, 11:39 PM
    tinner5150
    No problem at all they are usually spec'd by most architects and engineers and pass all codes and are smacna standard
  • 07-05-2011, 11:36 PM
    VTP99
    Quote Originally Posted by tinner5150 View Post
    Not a problem also when you do your spiral job us gripple or gripple type of wire and hangers it will make your life so much easier and faster
    I Googled them. Looks easy and nice and clean. No problem with inspectors correct ?
  • 07-05-2011, 11:04 PM
    tinner5150
    Not a problem also when you do your spiral job us gripple or gripple type of wire and hangers it will make your life so much easier and faster
  • 07-05-2011, 10:56 PM
    VTP99
    Quote Originally Posted by tinner5150 View Post
    If you need to the set to be 8" and it is 8" deep or wide duct the the finish length of the offset should be 16" it will make for a smooth radius and not choke the fitting
    Thanks tinner5150,
    I should know my off sets tomorrow or the following day. I will post them here if that's O.K. with jimmyed.
  • 07-05-2011, 10:46 PM
    tinner5150
    If you need to the set to be 8" and it is 8" deep or wide duct the the finish length of the offset should be 16" it will make for a smooth radius and not choke the fitting
  • 07-05-2011, 10:42 PM
    jimmyed
    Quote Originally Posted by energy star View Post
    I just said, if he tells you its 26......it's 26
    I see.. It says 26 ga on the metal. If I buy store bought metal, that is 26, it is thinner. I know i got some of his metal around, ill measure thickness tomorrow.

    I know the SLock is a lot more ridged. The bends are sharp and square compared to what I get from the supply house, it is rounded and flex's a lot more.
  • 07-05-2011, 10:41 PM
    VTP99
    Quote Originally Posted by tinner5150 View Post
    and for an offset you want to keep the length of set over the amount of offset and side of the offset
    Sorry but could you maybe explain that in laymen's terms ?
  • 07-05-2011, 10:18 PM
    energy star
    Quote Originally Posted by jimmyed View Post
    ridged s lock is what I know it as...

    Guy that makes our metal, I swear his 26ga is closer to 24ga and his 24 is closer to 20ga metal. The shop that made the metal also made the s'lock(as we call it) Trust me it is plenty stiff. The last ridged S we got sucks compared to the old sealtite stuff we used to get.
    I just said, if he tells you its 26......it's 26
  • 07-05-2011, 10:00 PM
    jimmyed
    Quote Originally Posted by energy star View Post
    it's not, it's 26 gauge. Next job you should use, standing slip or bar slip (same)

    And you know this how? How did you become the expert on what materials I get from the metal shop? I can go up there and make it out of 24, 26, 30, whatever gauge material I can run through the machine.


    Quote Originally Posted by energy star View Post
    I see a garage door. Is it opening to the outdoors?, or just another area of the factory? If it does open up to outside and if they have cool or cold conditioned air going through that duct, it may sweat when warm humid air hits from outside. Insulation?

    Take the strap off the supply sweep holding it to the wall, don't need it.

    Another part of the warehouse. Hanger is on there, job is done. It was on there for assembly, to keep things level. Sure I could take it off, then I guess I just stick some mystery screws in the holes.
  • 07-05-2011, 09:15 PM
    energy star
    Quote Originally Posted by stonewallred View Post
    Around here code says a support or strapping every "feet/inches". Doesn't matter if it needs it or not.
    I think its ten feet. Everywhere.
  • 07-05-2011, 09:06 PM
    stonewallred
    Quote Originally Posted by energy star View Post
    Take the strap off the supply sweep holding it to the wall, don't need it.
    Around here code says a support or strapping every "feet/inches". Doesn't matter if it needs it or not.
  • 07-05-2011, 08:53 PM
    energy star
    I see a garage door. Is it opening to the outdoors?, or just another area of the factory? If it does open up to outside and if they have cool or cold conditioned air going through that duct, it may sweat when warm humid air hits from outside. Insulation?

    Take the strap off the supply sweep holding it to the wall, don't need it.
  • 07-05-2011, 08:41 PM
    stonewallred
    Quote Originally Posted by jimmyed View Post
    Metal shop does it on the computer. Spits the metal out, add cross brakes,pittsburghs, snap lock, drive hooks, whatever it needs. Use a slip roll to form the radius pieces. Assemble and done. They can make about anything.

    Got an overhead spiral duct job this week. Never used the stuff before.
    Spiral is pretty simple to install, but hard to do it right.
    It has to be level and straight and the joints must be evenly matched, and if you cut it, it has to be an even cut. Just takes a 1/4" off at the start, to look back and see how you have meandered 6" or more off straight at the end of a run.

    Around here, I think that is why spiral is liked, but usually ends up getting painted black to match the ceilings in commercial buildings where it is exposed. Because while it looks good when right, every mistake is visible from the floor below.
  • 07-05-2011, 08:36 PM
    energy star
    Quote Originally Posted by jimmyed View Post
    ridged s lock is what I know it as...

    Guy that makes our metal, I swear his 26ga is closer to 24ga and his 24 is closer to 20ga metal. The shop that made the metal also made the s'lock(as we call it) Trust me it is plenty stiff. The last ridged S we got sucks compared to the old sealtite stuff we used to get.
    it's not, it's 26 gauge. Next job you should use, standing slip or bar slip (same)
  • 07-05-2011, 08:33 PM
    energy star
    Quote Originally Posted by jimmyed View Post
    Wouldn't be difficult. Just have a transition made. Just have to know what your off sets would be, as in flat on the back and left side or just keep everything centered.
    Thats a reverse transition.
  • 07-05-2011, 07:54 PM
    tinner5150
    Quote Originally Posted by jimmyed View Post
    I don't know that, longer it is the less turbulence. That may be a question to ask the metal shop..
    you want to keep the angle of the transition no more than a 45 deg. 30 is better and for an offset you want to keep the length of set over the amount of offset and side of the offset
  • 07-05-2011, 12:47 AM
    luskys a/c
    Real nice Jimmy! I myself love doing ductwork and wish I had the shop to make the 90 deg sweeps . Keep the trade up my friend!
  • 07-03-2011, 02:50 PM
    VTP99


    Let us know how your spiral job goes. I have one coming up as well.
    Two 5 ton Trane RTU's with open ceiling.
  • 07-03-2011, 02:42 PM
    jimmyed
    I don't know that, longer it is the less turbulence. That may be a question to ask the metal shop..
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