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So here is an update. Now after running on pilot for a month or two the gas line is properly purged so both the pilot and burner light well now. We've talked with the manufacturer support line (useless) and one of their normal installing companies (quite helpful) and only operating on 4 and 5 is a feature because there is a termostat that will try to keep a constant temperature in the room for settings 1-3 and will cycle the unit on and off, unfortunately it means off always for room temperature. I'm currently contacting the manufacturer of the valve assembly to find out the best way to address our problems.

Hi everyone. May I add a few thoughts to this thread?

First, this is a website dedicated to information exchanges between industry professionals and is not intended for DIYers. The forum rules actually forbid DIY advice.

Second, you are putting the lives of your family at risk by attempting this install yourself. The instructions recommend a qualified gas professional to install these units, which I doubt you guys are. No offense intended, just facts.

Please do yourself and your loved ones a favor......take this product back for a refund and put that money towards a quality gas fireplace that is installed by someone that does this for a living.

i purchased this same unit last year and it worked 4 or 5 times then we did not use it until christmas eve. i tried every thing and i am not getting and gas at the pilot lite. I have cleaned it all areas and there is still no gas at the pilot. I went to the mfg site and they suggest to play with the regulator spring and see if its stuck. I only use this system for effect on cold nights. I would never sleep and let the unit on.

I hooked it up with lp gas and 1/2" flex tubing to valve. Tank..regulator...valve to unit connection.
ACleaned it out and waited for air to purge but no gas to pilot. Any answers?

Lots of hose

By default the unit is set up for propane which is what is being used so the selector wasn't touched. The installation does have quite a bit of yellow flex hose on the end of copper tubing which was used for the remainder of the installation. From the tank outside there is probably about 20' of tubing in total. They also added a shutoff valve (1/4 turn with a removable key) to satisfy local regulations on the side of the mantel next to the main inlet so there could be quite a bit of resistance in total.

BTW - I'm running mine on natural gas. One thing I did notice a year ago when installing the unit was that the valve you have to switch between gas types was a very stiff, and if you weren't careful, you'd twist some inner tubing. In fact, mine was so stiff, that I actually had to remove the knob and use vise grips to loosen and twist the valve. Believe me, after that, I was REALLY suspicious on the first lighting.

Could it be that you twisted the knob and not the valve itself, and aren't on the correct gas selection?? Just a thought...

Bummer for you... I must have really been lucky. While I was disappointed with the blower situation, this unit has lit quickly and properly each and every time, and radiates heat like crazy even at a modest setting.

As it's been almost a year since I've been on this thread, my memory is a little fuzzy, but I seem to remember someone suggesting that if the gas lines had too much resistance (too small or too much flex tubing) that this could be a cause of the lighting issues. I had my gas line run with 1" tubing, and only a 3' segment of flex tube between the 1" line and the fireplace coupling. I also installed a moisture trap.

And, for the record, I have a functioning CO detector on the ceiling, 20' from the fireplace - not a peep.

My parents got one at Lowes also. Far to many problems with the unit. We got a blower that was suppose to work with it, but it didn't have any mounting method, the cables were too short to reach the correct locatoins and it blew in the wrong direction. After many trips back and forth and trying other units that were suppose to work I got one that fit and the cables were long enough and laid out correctly that the unit cold be installed but I had to strip it down and rewire it so it would spin in the right direction.

Then there are the flame issues. The pilot is impossible to light with the built in lighter. When using an external flame you can light it but the flame doesn't want to attach to the pilot orafice, you have to blow lightly on it with a puff to get it to catch. When you turn it on the flame will not wrap to the back without another light puff of air. It will only stay on if the valve is set to 4 or 5. You can't turn it on at 1 or 2 and at 3 it will go on but won't stay on for long before it goes out again.

The manufacturer support is terrible. They deny warranty coverage and accountablity for everything and are of no help to the service person when they called them.

And all this after spending several times the cost of the unit and its mantle on getting the propane etc installed.

SSID280T blower

FINALLY - got someone to answer the phone in the sales dept. The final word is that this fireplace is not compatible with a blower. I'm apparently not the first to notice that Lowes stocks blowers right next to the fireplaces and that they've told customers that they're compatible. Good luck - and thanks to TxFarmer for sharing your installation notes.

blower for SSID280T

Hi TxFarmer - I also had the same question. Lowes is selling DESA blowers right next to the fireplaces, and thought one would fit. Customer service at ProComm has not yet responded to e-mail inquiry. I did get someone to answer the phone at their Customer Service, and he wasn't sure. You can't find this model on their web site, which hasn't been updated for a few years based on some of the references for things "coming in 2006".

The suggestion for having CO detectors is right on - whether you own this fireplace or not!

Talked to the company rep and found out they are having a problem with some of the units. They are looking into a diffferent burner as a replacement with closer holes in it. Been about 3 weeks and no news yet

Originally Posted by TxFarmer

Hello, this is my first post to this site. I found this site by doing a Google search on my unit's model number. I was looking to see if the manufacturer made a blower unit for the gas log.

I wanted to state that I am not having the trouble mentioned by the other owners/posters. I used copper to supply the gas log (to the shut-off valve), then used 1/2" [yellow, heavy-style] flex hose to hook to the unit itself. I really did not like having to bush-down to 3/8" at the gas log's 'entrance', but that is the way it has to be....

The back burner of my gas log lights within about 1-1.5 second (almost instantly) of initial fire-up. I have not removed any logs (ie: log #4) in order to get the back burner to light quickly.

I am not 'taking up' for this unit...just wanted to state that mine works fine (right now). My house is peer & beam, so the supply [line] is new; and [to my knowledge] done properly. (not saying that you guys' install was not done properly..again, just talking) I had a guy helping me that used to work with this-type stuff all the time..

I bought this fireplace and wooden enclosure at Lowes, just like you guys did. All of it was 50% off. We do not use this as a primary heat source, but rather something to simply "back-up to", every now and then. Kind of an "accent piece". It would really worry me, though, if the back burner did not light very quickly after the front one did/does.

My Model # is: SSID280T, Serial #: 403106'x'

Go back to Lowes, and buy at least two CO detectors.

No problems for me, yet...(knock on wood)

Hello, this is my first post to this site. I found this site by doing a Google search on my unit's model number. I was looking to see if the manufacturer made a blower unit for the gas log.

I wanted to state that I am not having the trouble mentioned by the other owners/posters. I used copper to supply the gas log (to the shut-off valve), then used 1/2" [yellow, heavy-style] flex hose to hook to the unit itself. I really did not like having to bush-down to 3/8" at the gas log's 'entrance', but that is the way it has to be....

The back burner of my gas log lights within about 1-1.5 second (almost instantly) of initial fire-up. I have not removed any logs (ie: log #4) in order to get the back burner to light quickly.

I am not 'taking up' for this unit...just wanted to state that mine works fine (right now). My house is peer & beam, so the supply [line] is new; and [to my knowledge] done properly. (not saying that you guys' install was not done properly..again, just talking) I had a guy helping me that used to work with this-type stuff all the time..

I bought this fireplace and wooden enclosure at Lowes, just like you guys did. All of it was 50% off. We do not use this as a primary heat source, but rather something to simply "back-up to", every now and then. Kind of an "accent piece". It would really worry me, though, if the back burner did not light very quickly after the front one did/does.

My Model # is: SSID280T, Serial #: 403106'x'

Get a vented unit, life is short, why make it shorter?

After reading the thread you might want to return it now.

I would suggest going to a dealer and have them recommend / install something. Then if something goes wrong you have someone to turn to besides the 18 y/o who works in the seasonal dept at Lowes.

So - what was the outcome?

I found this posting - after buying the same unit from Lowes. I haven't started installation yet, and I'm curious as to how this ended for you.

well... i actually i do have the same make and model... i havent sunk as much money, obviously.... im also thinking about returning it... let me know if any progress mdnbiker.... saniutza@yahoo.com

i was just wondering if any of the technicians that looked at the fireplace tried to increase the gas valve flow to the burners?

i've removed the 4th log and it operates very smoothly and lights right up...

does anyone trully believe that taking the forth log out and trying to operate the fireplace its unsafe?

and btw fellows i appologize, no one informed me that its against rules to provide dys information.... thanks

I agree it is dangerous to use and have no intentions of using it. Most likely will remove and return. I had a tech from local lp retailer look as it with no success. Thats as fas as i am going with it. The cost is escalating out of control for this cheap unit.

Originally Posted by mdnbiker

Flame moves from right side of burner front to left. About 1/3 to 1/2 way around the bend it stops. Sometimes it will go on around after a brief pause, but most of the time it just sits there. I can't say for how long cause I turn unit off after about 30 seconds. Burner does run slightly uphill as it makes bend and goes back to right. The log over the bend is at least 1 1/2" above the burner, but if removed the burner will light quickly about 95% of the time and with a slight pause the other times. I haven't looked at photos posted other than to see if the unit was the same as I have, but mine has multiple slits in burner about a eight inch section, center front and rear, with small orifices connecting the slit sections. Probably a standard configeration, wipping yellow flame front and rear, small blue flame at orifices.

The technical methids Hearthman is recommending would very likely isolate an exact cause for the problem.

The usual reason for a flame to fail to light from port to port and stop the ignition sequence as described is that the burner is underfired somewhat, and perhaps doesn't have enough primary air because the primary air shutter is closed too much.

But with unvented equipment, the risks of being wrong can have bad consequnces. Increasing the burner input might overfire the burner and cause carbon monoxide to be produced, for example.


You really need a competent repairman to inspect and analyze the problem if you are going to use unvented equipment at all, which I recommend against.

Just not worth the risks, in my opinion.

ANSI stds require complete ignition of all burner ports within 4 seconds. If your unit does not meet this std., try contacting the mfr., who seems to have changed names several times. They appear to be trading as "HearthSense/ Procom" and are attending the HPBA EXPO in Atlanta. Try reaching them at 888-301-1115 or www.usaprocom.com . They also appear to have moved from Irvine, Ca to Placentia, Ca.

Someone qualified needs to really go over these units. Gas pressures need to be checked at the appliance--not LP tank and they should be taken with just pilot and nothing else, burner lit, then any other appliances online. The unit needs to be closely inspected. For instance, if the primary air shutter is pinched, closed or compromised, that would explain why the gas is not trailing around the burner ports. The burner orifice, tube, etc. must be inspected and a direct manifold pressure taken downstream of the valve. There may be a blockage inside the valve. All these things require a skilled technician to check and record. Pics should be taken of the ignition sequence and sent to the mfr. along with model and serial #. Ultimately, they are responsible. If they do not respond appropriately, you can always refer the matter to the CPSC and UL or whomever was their test lab as they will be interested.

HTH,
Hearthman

Flame moves from right side of burner front to left. About 1/3 to 1/2 way around the bend it stops. Sometimes it will go on around after a brief pause, but most of the time it just sits there. I can't say for how long cause I turn unit off after about 30 seconds. Burner does run slightly uphill as it makes bend and goes back to right. The log over the bend is at least 1 1/2" above the burner, but if removed the burner will light quickly about 95% of the time and with a slight pause the other times. I haven't looked at photos posted other than to see if the unit was the same as I have, but mine has multiple slits in burner about a eight inch section, center front and rear, with small orifices connecting the slit sections. Probably a standard configeration, wipping yellow flame front and rear, small blue flame at orifices.