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Well I certainly deserve an F here. GE guy plugged in his computer and said the evap fan motor was no good. He replaced it and it working fine. Funny part of it is my boss asked to keep the motor so I can see it and the guys cut the leads so short you can't check it. Fishy fishy. I swear I could hear the thing running. I could not even figure out how to get the plastic off to see the fan. I hope my boss learned his lesson. Don't have me work on your little frig. We do commercial A/C!!!! So emarrased I angry. Anyways rant over. Thanks to everyone for the help.

She only pulled 29*F.
Qamar- thanks for the info, I will read up when I get the chance.
I believe my micron reading was indicating a leak or moisture. Ill see if I get time to post it.
I do not think the door switch and light is a proble.
My boss is calling GE to come. I simply don't have the time to be messing witht his thing any more.
Thanks for all the help guys. I will update this later.

refer no cooling

I am sending u attachment for sealing a small system

I have a GSS25...... a couple of years ago compressor sounded louder than normal, pulled away from wall, no access fittings, brazed on live access fitting. The type where you braze it on then tighten and it pierces the tubing. Well it was low on charge so i got a can of 134a at auto parts store and the can tap. So about every year when it gets a little noisy I fill it up. GE is piece of crap refrigerator, Had a recall on the doors about 5 yrs ago too. They sent some new one and some dude came out and installed under warranty.
I think the door deal was a class action lawsuit.
I am jus waiting for it to die. I hear Kenmore are good...lady at appliance parts store recommended Kenmore.

Originally Posted by jim147

It's a GE. Don't forget to check the door adjustment. If the light is staying on, you get the easy bake oven effect.

From your description, it sounds like you might have an evaporator leak. Since the unit runs at 0 to a slight vacuum, this will allow it to draw moisture into the system that will freeze up in the cap tube and can cause you all kind of crazy problems.

jim

If he uses a good micron gauge, he will spot that leak condition during the vacuum he pulls before the recharge.

It's a GE. Don't forget to check the door adjustment. If the light is staying on, you get the easy bake oven effect.

From your description, it sounds like you might have an evaporator leak. Since the unit runs at 0 to a slight vacuum, this will allow it to draw moisture into the system that will freeze up in the cap tube and can cause you all kind of crazy problems.

jim

i Would reverse flush w/ 4.oz of r22 and then 125 # dry nitrogen it will clean the cap tube unles poe oil has not form salt like material inside cap tube. S.P 1# amp 1-1.5 for normal operation

Originally Posted by jpsmith1cm

Let that bugger run overnight and see what it looks like in the cold light of day.

I agree. AFTER it pulls down.

That's the plan. I took a SH reading at the outlet of the evap and it was 0*. See what it is in the morning. Thanks for all the help guys. I'll post temp tomorrow.

Let that bugger run overnight and see what it looks like in the cold light of day.

I know what you are thinking but these little units are different from our bigger stuff.

Every single one. It is made not to sweat or ruin floors.

Amp draw a little low. Is this a standard compressor with little relay or inverter box unit?

SB: even with a heat exchanger what what compressor can handle 86* of SH. Why would a system be designed like that?

You have a heat exchanger lineset. Do not even look to sh. Your point of reference is frost pattern.

Sounds like cap tube to me although you should have changed the drier by now to rule that out.

To repair a restricted cap tube you drill a hole through back wall to run new heat exchanger

I have been doing that. Have put in an extra .75 so far.

Box= 37*
SP= 2"hg SLT= 65.6 SH=86*
LLP= 100#

Not sure what your original problem was but I would add a half ounce or so of refrigerant and see what happens. Very easy to mess up on these small weighed in charges. High side seems a little low, suction a little low and superheat a little high.

1) Brazed in low side stub on compressor acces port. Brazed in high side stub on LLdrier access port.(used nitrogen).
2) Purged with nitrogen and evacuated.
3) Pressure tested. .75# drop over 40 min.
4) Triple evacuted purging w nitrogen each time. Installed cores at last purge.
5) Filled low side hose with vapor. High side house with liquid.
6) Weighed in 4.5 oz.

Running for 40 min.
1)Box temp dropped from 64*F to 46*F, Delta-T= 18*F.
2) SP= 1.5'"hg SLT= 71.1*F SH=100*F
3) LLP= 101#
4) Amp draw .62

There is no way a warm box could have 100* of SH right?! 1.5"hg @ 46* box! Got to have a restriction.

What do we think. Fuuny how when you are in the situation you can actualy question such crazy number.

Pull, vacuum, and recharge by nameplate.

Use shutoffs on the hose ends, fill liquid hose with liquid, and use the valve to control the weigh-in, that way you never have to compensate for hose losses.

Make sure the defrost switch is firmly attached to the evap coil. Check the defrost timer (if this model does not use a board) and make sure there is no voltage drop across those contacts in defrost or compressor running mode.

I do have experience on these boxes.

They only run about 5 lbs with warm box. 0 to slight vac is normal with cold box.

Since this unit has heat exchanger the line will never be cold or its overcharged.

Go ahead and start over and add nameplate's charge which is only about 5oz.

See what you've got from there. If you add high side port compensate for your hose.