Post a reply to the thread: Rheem, 2 stage 80% w/ vs motor, Rheem 2 speed 16.0 seer 2 ton A/C
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Originally Posted by BaldLoonie If you look at the venting tables and look at the input for low fire, odds are it will call for b-vent connector even indoors, if one wants to be technical. It even gets more tricky than that when one is following the NFGC. This map is showing the 99% winter design temperatures for the U.S. Depending on where you are on this map determines if you are allowed to even use single wall for a connector. In the colder parts of this map you are not allowed, must be double wall B-Vent. An approved insulated flue liner is what I assume you used in the masonry chimney. Personally, I would have installed a float safety switch in the overflow drain outlet (that is factory plugged). That's only because I have personally seen what a backed up condensate drain line can do when it's undetected. I like that you elevated the cooling coil off the floor to allow for better condensate drainage and pitch for the drain line. John
why replace what is still good? I "recycle" all the available good parts for my customers' installs - media cabinets, humidifiers, air drops, etc. IMHO, replacing good materials and charging for it, is gouging the customer and padding your profit margin.
Originally Posted by thejoshtx Down here in texas most of all furnaces are 80% ers as well. should i be selling 90's. dont really see the need here. could of got em a new filter cab as well i mean wtf everything looks good why leave the old space gaurd in there Why charge for a new filter cabinet? Sounds like a ripoff to me. The future isn't what it use to be.
Down here in texas most of all furnaces are 80% ers as well. should i be selling 90's. dont really see the need here. could of got em a new filter cab as well i mean wtf everything looks good why leave the old space gaurd in there
We are in Phoenix, and we have a hard enough time getting people to even replace their furnace, more less going to a high efficient one. They get turned on for maybe 30-50 days a year max, so there is little pay back. 95% of our replacements are 80% furnaces
We still do about 15% of our installs as 80%ers. We have a lot of oddly constructed century homes around here where venting a 90 is basically impossible. AFAIK we are required to trap every job around here whether it needs it or not (except with drain pumps, sump acts as trap). One city around here (Broadview Heights) requires an air gap in the drain line. Good? Bad? I'm the guy with the gun.
You have to put a trap on the ac drain in some counties around here, even if its positive pressure. I'd prefer not to have them, lots of service calls with a plugged up drain for no reason. Now it's different if its draining outside or on an air handler but I'm just saying your typical basement install it's silly. imo
To me it is a 3/4" hole in my ductwork. I would patch that. I understand your reason.
Why bother,it`s on the positive side of the blower.
No trap on the AC drain?
Good looking job. I don't install a lot of 80%'ers anymore. Every once in awhile though.
Glad to see that quality installs don't have to be oversized !!!
Originally Posted by BaldLoonie If you look at the venting tables and look at the input for low fire, odds are it will call for b-vent connector even indoors, if one wants to be technical. You boys selling much Rheem? AlliedAir is still my 'bread and butter' line... cheap and easy to install. Most of my basic installs is a VS furnace with basic coil and AC... with media filter. When a customer wants better equipment or high efficient equipment, I usually use Rheem or Ruud.
Originally Posted by Li5iD Still installing mid efficient furnaces in the states? 5-year hiatus on elimination of 80+installs. how do you handle condensate in ambient attic? or is that another thread. nice job, kevin.
If you look at the venting tables and look at the input for low fire, odds are it will call for b-vent connector even indoors, if one wants to be technical. You boys selling much Rheem?
Nice job! Like the SpaceGaurd air filter... wish they still made them. Those rectangle outdoor units will be history in a a few years... shame, they are tuff units. Many of my customers do not want the factory stats either... I use the HoneyWell Prestige line most of the time with 2/2 installs. Rheem/Ruud has a new high-end stat coming soon... wonder if it will be 'up to date'...
No need for bvent? I say this in all honesty as a serious question. Category 1 venting requires bvent minimum?
Originally Posted by BaldLoonie Looks nice. Communicating control? The customer didn't want the communicating thermostat. He chose a Honeywell Pro 5000, 2 stage heat and 2 stage cool. As far as the flue goes, its single wall to a masonry chimney with a flue liner kit. its in a closet in the home, no need for b-vent. Thanks for the compliment, I appreciate it. :0)
Wow that's horrible, I honestly only see mid efficients when I'm tearing them out, and that isn't like any b-vent I have ever seen, plus up here you can't horizontally vent with b-vent, has to be stainless now, use a product called z-vent, very nice to work with but stupid expensive
Can't always find a way to vent a 90. Or some just don't want them. Around here, many or most jobs aren't permitted. Even if it is, probably won't be inspected. Many areas outside Indy itself have no licensing and permitting anyway. And with homeowners beating us down to the last dollar, b-vent seems to be one of the first things to go. I know our salesmen/owner rarely use it. If you do, you likely will be too high and lose the job. Sad but true.
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