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Awful long drain line without much fall if any. Rest of the job looks good! Dont care for the armaflex gap at the house though

Originally Posted by hearthman

Romex is not approved for use in liquidtite conduit outdoors--use THHN wire. Use rear knockout and conduit straight out rear of disconnect through wall.
Ok. I want clarification on this. I know, and follow the code on no romex in conduit. I took this code to stay no romex in conduit, not: no romex in conduit outside.
If it's no romex in conduit, and you have a disconnect where you don't come through the back, how are you going to convert from romex in the house, to thhn coming from your disconnect? A junction box is just asking to get reamed by an inspector. I've been told by inspectors that in that specific instance, romex from the house into the disconnect is the lesser of 2 evils.



Must use a 3" condenser pad.
Again, clarification. I know the specific code you talking about, and it's appliance located minimum 3" above grade. Meaning if you use a 2" slab with 1" vibration isolators, the appliance is still 3" above grade, meeting the code requirement, yes?
Does A/Strane (on the back)'s black thing count as part of the appliance? I would see it as just a isolator.

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Romex is not approved for use in liquidtite conduit outdoors--use THHN wire. Use rear knockout and conduit straight out rear of disconnect through wall. Disconnect should be a little more off the side so you have 30" wide x 36 deep workspace in front of it and condenser.

Drill separate hole for lineset and sleeve with PVC siliconed to wall. Keep Armaflex continuous. Once run, you can nuke the sleeve with silicone. Use an acid brush to smoothe it out.

Must use a 3" condenser pad.

With a little planning, you can line up your lineset to go right into the condenser without that bobsled curve so all it does is a slight drop down but kept in line.

If you plan correctly, you can make one vertical riser on the condensate drain that lines up with the secondary Hx drain and it misses the gas line and electrical on Trane. That means less callbacks from blockage at that offset at the bottom. I use one cleanout tee in line with the coil then another down the riser.

You realize by putting up pics we all get to critique. Why not drill separate hole for line into disconnect. You will have a little less clutter on wall and save your boss the cost of the liquidtite and connector. Don't forget to use a bushing! Keep up the good work.

in Manitoba white means its white..... black / white 240 or 120......

Originally Posted by hvacvegas

FYI:
You need to color your white wire in the disconnect black. Alot of inspectors will fail you for it. White is for neutral only.
Also, drill a bigger hole for the linset brother! You can always silicone it!
Usually, I'll go 2 5/8 for a lineset + whip, 1 5/8 for just a lineset.

That's what happens when you use Romex in flex.

I keep a roll of #10THHN stranded handy so I don't have to make up solid.

Originally Posted by Music Seeker

http://s292.photobucket.com/home/tallicdeth/set/20045

So we drilled three holes, for venting and lineset. Got the C/U ready to put on the pad, opened the box, and found the unit dented on the cap and one of the panels smashed into the coil. So we didn't even get the lineset together until about 4 today. Got the new furnace set, a new plenum on top of the case coil, takeoffs put back in, disconnect mounted, and all the other good stuff.

I got to work with my favorite installer today, and if the co-worker is sick tomorrow, I'll be going with him again I bet, to finish up the work out there. Just some venting and such, tying up loose ends. My only complaints about this job was that it was in a hole, and it was STILL nicer than my basement; oh, and the fact that my boss didn't even THINK to add into the quote a freaking condensate pump! Something like 35' of condensate line. Would have been a bit cheaper manpower-wise to just install a pump and run the 3/8" hose to the sump pump instead of having to run PVC all that way.

FYI:
You need to color your white wire in the disconnect black. Alot of inspectors will fail you for it. White is for neutral only.

Also, drill a bigger hole for the linset brother! You can always silicone it!
Usually, I'll go 2 5/8 for a lineset + whip, 1 5/8 for just a lineset.

Looking good!

I don't know, pics won't load for me...

Changeout of Furnace and adding C/U

http://s292.photobucket.com/home/tallicdeth/set/20045

So we drilled three holes, for venting and lineset. Got the C/U ready to put on the pad, opened the box, and found the unit dented on the cap and one of the panels smashed into the coil. So we didn't even get the lineset together until about 4 today. Got the new furnace set, a new plenum on top of the case coil, takeoffs put back in, disconnect mounted, and all the other good stuff.

I got to work with my favorite installer today, and if the co-worker is sick tomorrow, I'll be going with him again I bet, to finish up the work out there. Just some venting and such, tying up loose ends. My only complaints about this job was that it was in a hole, and it was STILL nicer than my basement; oh, and the fact that my boss didn't even THINK to add into the quote a freaking condensate pump! Something like 35' of condensate line. Would have been a bit cheaper manpower-wise to just install a pump and run the 3/8" hose to the sump pump instead of having to run PVC all that way.