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Originally Posted by seatonheating

Except that Thurmont used an antiquated "rule of thumb" sizing technique.

Manual J, D, & S is what we should be talking about, nothing else yet.

Seatonheating, appreciate your reply.

I believe I have found a good contractor near my area now. A real person who I could understand answered the phone on the first ring, and the appointment was made. The owner of the company called 30 minutes before he arrived as I was told they would do, and he was at my door 5 minutes early! First thing, after hello was he put the blue shoe covers on. After some converstion I told him what my price range is and what I wanted and he asked how soon did I want to buy...I told him now! In that case he said, if I had the time would I let him gather the info he needed to run the calc's. He ran the calc's (manual J stuff) got back with me 2 days later. He will cancel the cost of doing the calc's because he feels I'm a serious buyer. (normally he charges a fee because he needs to know this stuff before he bids a job and many times after doing so he may never hear from the propective customer again) He recommends adding a second return air grille in the master bedroom retreat area that shares a wall with the heater closet directly into the current plenum. (This is a split upflow system) His plan to save me money and get me the 16/13 rating needed for the Fed. credit and Calif. Energy Cash is to install Ruud 95% variable-speed 2-stage heater with a standard Ruud 14 SEER (16.5 capable) condensor unit. Because this AC unit is standard, he will throw in a compressor sound blanket but say's it's only good for 1 or 2db) I asked for whole house air filtration system and one UV light will be part of the package as well as all code items, correct sized lineset, duct seal and duct cleaning. He says there is a 100% chance the ducts will fail the Ca. title 24 test before sealing..."always do" he said. Good for 200 rebate if it does.

Subtract 200 energy rebate from PG & E for the duct seal, 600 from Ruud, 1,500 from Uncle Sam, 1,000 from C.E.C. and 250 off the air filtration unit and this is looking like 1,334 under my beginning price range. Reason for Ruud equip. is he can buy it for less than say Rheem, or American Standard. Swears it's as good as Rheem because they make it and has the same compressor. "Most bang for the buck without getting into junk" I'm told.

I can't find anything on the Internet to the contrary.

Originally Posted by ebonysky

Thanks for the reply. Between all the convoluted posts that started up after chrystia bumped in to "share" my thread...you are the only one that has made a serious reply with regard to the equipment I mentioned. Your point of view is well taken.

Except that Thurmont used an antiquated "rule of thumb" sizing technique.

Manual J, D, & S is what we should be talking about, nothing else yet.

Thurmont HVAC

Originally Posted by Thurmont HVAC

With out knowing the other particulars about your house, using the Sq. ft method using 600 it comes out to be 2.75 tons of cooling needed to cool the house. you mentioned a 48,000 btu A/C I'd say it is over kill unless you do it right by having a contractor come and run a manual J on your house. That way you will know what is needed and you won't have to pay and suffer with oversized equipment. The 80,000 btu furnace is most likely too big also. If your gonna push 48,000 btu's (1600 cfm) through 8 registers I hope that they are some big ass registers and that you have a whole lot of returns. Better get some ear muffs !

Thanks for the reply. Between all the convoluted posts that started up after chrystia bumped in to "share" my thread...you are the only one that has made a serious reply with regard to the equipment I mentioned. Your point of view is well taken.

Originally Posted by chrystia

i need a 4 ton which i will agree with as i have had several people say so.

I do 6000 sq ft with 3 tons..... are you really really sure?

best kind of duct?

what's the best kind of duct? flexible or rigid? the guy i'm thinking of going with wants to give me flexible all over but i think some of it should be rigid.

opinions please!

so what do we think about the carrier infinity 16.8 seer with a 13 eer? is this the

best 4 ton model? there is one upgrade at 17.3 seer and 13.4 eer in a 4 ton model. i am told. is this correct? 2 stage, hi speed.

do we like it? i think i like it? what about the professionals? do you like it?

Originally Posted by chrystia

it also seems that installing central air in the hot summer is not on the favorites list of too many contractors.

It's not the contractors, it's the people working for the contractors.

Originally Posted by rogerk

A duct in the wall is 8", a skinny duct is 2", so the difference is 12", give or take a few inches. The price differnece on your end is 3K because skinny duct costs more to install than fat duct. Dont ask me why, thats just the way skinny and fat duct are.

I know why its necessary? Yes, it is very necessary. Skinny and fat ducts are the answer, what was the question again?

rogerk, thanks for your answer. it doesn't seem to add up correctly, however,the difference appears to be 6".

the next question that i have is that a regular duct then, at 8 inches, seems to fit well within the wall studs. then how deep is it if it is 8 inches wide.

it also seems that installing central air in the hot summer is not on the favorites list of too many contractors. i don't see the need to install a skinny duct if the regular one fits in fine. do you?

Originally Posted by chrystia

how big is a duct in the wall anyway? and how big is a skinny duct and what's the difference? the price difference on my end is about 3K but i dont' understand why that even is necessary?

does anyone know why it's necessary? is it?

A duct in the wall is 8", a skinny duct is 2", so the difference is 12", give or take a few inches. The price differnece on your end is 3K because skinny duct costs more to install than fat duct. Dont ask me why, thats just the way skinny and fat duct are.

I know why its necessary? Yes, it is very necessary. Skinny and fat ducts are the answer, what was the question again?

what about duct size?

one guy came over and i'm sure he knew his stuff- he wanted to put in some kind of super skinny ducts. now i don't understand why i would need this with the walls open and the usual stud work all around.

how big is a duct in the wall anyway? and how big is a skinny duct and what's the difference? the price difference on my end is about 3K but i dont' understand why that even is necessary?

does anyone know why it's necessary? is it?

meanwhile, i am leaning strongly on the carrier infinity as they guy that knows his stuff actually has that one in his house- so it must be good! it was also suggested by my most reasonable bid- also a man that i believe knows his stuff.

while there's always more than one way to accomplish a goal is there a better way in this case or just a different way?

thanks, chrystia

With out knowing the other particulars about your house, using the Sq. ft method using 600 it comes out to be 2.75 tons of cooling needed to cool the house. you mentioned a 48,000 btu A/C I'd say it is over kill unless you do it right by having a contractor come and run a manual J on your house. That way you will know what is needed and you won't have to pay and suffer with oversized equipment. The 80,000 btu furnace is most likely too big also. If your gonna push 48,000 btu's (1600 cfm) through 8 registers I hope that they are some big ass registers and that you have a whole lot of returns. Better get some ear muffs !

Originally Posted by ebonysky

OK, I stand corrected here...no prices given. I was trying to get an idea of what this equipment should cost. I know no one can give me an actual install cost without seeing the job.

Then tell me if this equipment configuation sounds right for my size home. I have been doing research and that is how I found this Forum. From that research this looks like a good/balanced system. I asked for the extra air filtration which this furnace model features as an option and it's built-in. Carrier contractor said I didn't have room in my closet for their air purifier.

you could move the purifier, but it would cost you more in duct work... and maybe efficiency

this isn't my thread either...you really do suck at the internet.

who turned on the computer for you?

low bid...laughable.

o. ha. he. you are very funny, while informative, and at the same time helpful. this will be my last post on your "so very important personal thread". also i will not look again to read your stuck up childish posts after this one. i personally had no question of my own, but my main point was that you should not have been so rude to the lady that has obviously just started this form and was looking for advice. you so quickly ridicule mine but have no confidence to give her your own. therefore you are useless, and are a sorry individual. goodbye

Originally Posted by LowCashACR

uummmm.. how bout, find a big one to suck on? seems like a good idea for a hater that wants to rip on someone that only want to help, and someone that is only looking for help. i say go with the "low bid", if there is a warranty or gaurantee involved, on paper, read and research loser

i'm sorry ..apparently you are new to the internet. it is extremely rude to interrupt somebody else's thread with your own questions. kind of like interupting somebody else's conversation. don't worry you suck at the computer now but maybe in time..you can do better.



low bid? sorry you're are an idiot. do you do the same when looking for a medical procedure? low bid contractor's don't last very long..then you can wipe your a$$ with their guarantee.

with a name like lowcash...maybe you give financial advice too.

fwiw....i typed this very slowly for you..hope it helped.

Originally Posted by tinner73

chtystia and lowcash both suck at the internet. start your own thread...don't hijack somebody else's.


go with the low bid....only if you're an idiot.

uummmm.. how bout, find a big one to suck on? seems like a good idea for a hater that wants to rip on someone that only want to help, and someone that is only looking for help. i say go with the "low bid", if there is a warranty or gaurantee involved, on paper, read and research loser. BTW, i never acted as this thread is my own, but if someone is looking for help, then who are you to act like you are better than her?? you are nothing. at the most you are "as good as", though i doubt even that.

chtystia and lowcash both suck at the internet. start your own thread...don't hijack somebody else's.


go with the low bid....only if you're an idiot.

chrystia, **** the hater, go with the lowest bid in your area. seems like you have looked around and have done your homework. call around your area and find the guy that will do it for the lowest price, but make sure you get a warranty. . pay no attention to these people that think your not worth being on "their" thread

hijacking? it's called sharing!

Originally Posted by chrystia

i need a 4 ton which i will agree with as i have had several people say so. in addition, i live in a split which apparently it seems to be very difficult to put in the ducts (although i don't know why- all the walls are open) my bids have really surprised me as the most expensive was 2 and a half times what i thought it would originally cost. it's a little hard to wrap your mind around a number that you could buy a not so shabby car for. actually i'm calling that one a "save your face bid" in which he shows up so you can't say he didn't but really doesn't want to do the job so he gives you this outrageous price so that you'll not consider him.

the question is now, the carrier infinity which i read good things about, in a 16.8 seer and 13 eer or one model up with 17.3 seer and 13.4 eer - which doesn't seem like much or

the orion system which has some kind of skinny duct.



i don't know why everyone says it's such a hard house. one guy went on and on about how hot it was as if i waited all year long for a super hot summer and on the hottest day i said "ok. today!" i think he priced it due to the heat!

the last 4 bids i've had are all going the wrong way- up. i have no tax credits left so there's nothing there. i might get some rebates but that's about it.

i believe in buying the best up front so even if it costs a little more but i get better it's ok.

any thoughts? chrystia

Chrystia.....you are highjacking my thread! Please start your own thread to get your questions answered!