True GDM-33 Compressor or Temp. Control?

[pargol4]

I have a True Mfg. GDM-33 from 1988. I'll spare all of the details of R-12, etc., unless you feel it is relavant. Anyway, this past weekend, I noticed that it wasn't as cold as normal, so I adjusted the temp. control in the unit. I checked it later that day and the temp was actually higher.

I had an hvac/ref guy come out, who happens to be a friend. I wasn't there at the time. He said everything was 'where it's supposed to be' as far as the freon. He believed the 'thermostat' was sticking. First of all, is the thermostat the same as the temp. control knob inside the cabinet?

I got home from work the other day, and it was actually starting to cool. Now, nothing was actually repaired as of yet...

A day later, it was no longer cooling. I noticed that the compressor seemed like it kept trying to start, but never kept running. When it started, it sounded similar to an old VW bug, but then stopped immediately. It kept doing this for a while, so I decided to turn the temp. control all the way down, so it wouldn't try to start.

When I pulled the unit out, the compressor was extremely hot. Not being a ref. guy myself, I didn't know if this was normal. On top of the compressor, it has the model number of AK159AT-032.

Any ideas?

[t527ed]

compressor or start components. call friend back let him know what you found.

[fatmomcarl]

in seconds how long would the compressor run for ? or did the motor make a errrrrrrr-----click sound each time ? if it did run what did the pressures look like during time ? with a lil more info i can steer u in a direction that may help u ... see im 26 so i know nothin of a VW bug but i know refrigeration

[len]

gdm 33,1988,pull the deck out,replace the compressor,and drier,and cap tube,make sure you get a 134a compressor.this unit is very old,i dont know if you want to invest in the money or labor,but thats what i would do.

[pargol4]

In response to the errrr--click sound, that's about what it did. It was like it was trying to start but never did. When it DID start, like I said it sounded like an old VW bug...kind of a pingy/chirpy sound??

In response to the "...is it worth investing in...", I believe so. The cabinet is in great shape. It's a Coca-Cola cooler that I have in my garage. When it was working, that was the coldest beer I've had! And it dry ages steaks perfect, due to the constant circulation.

As far as replacing the unit, R-12, with an R-134A, are the systems compatible? I've found places online that sell the R-12 compressor, Tecumseh AK9434A, for about $330 door-to-door. Should I be reluctant to get this?

Thanks for the responses.

[fatmomcarl]

ur cap tube could be restricted, bad start kit or bad compressor .... if u find it to be compressor i would check to ensure there is no restriction in the cap tube. 134a is good but not to retrofit from with an existing 12 system to much work involved .... 134a also creates cap tube restrictions faster than any other refrigerant ive encountered no matter the working condition...... use hotshot (414b) $334 for a fractional horse is expensive ... are u a contractor ? if so go to ur local refrig. supply house can do way bettter on price & even cross u over to a diff brand comp ..... good luck

[markettech]

Originally posted by t527ed
compressor or start components. call friend back let him know what you found.

I agree.

True units have been know for thermostat problems, but if you are hearing the compressor hum and then click when it tries to start, start component or compressor failure would be the most logical assumption.

[coolprod]

Originally posted by pargol4
In response to the errrr--click sound, that's about what it did. It was like it was trying to start but never did. When it DID start, like I said it sounded like an old VW bug...kind of a pingy/chirpy sound??

In response to the "...is it worth investing in...", I believe so. The cabinet is in great shape. It's a Coca-Cola cooler that I have in my garage. When it was working, that was the coldest beer I've had! And it dry ages steaks perfect, due to the constant circulation.

As far as replacing the unit, R-12, with an R-134A, are the systems compatible? I've found places online that sell the R-12 compressor, Tecumseh AK9434A, for about $330 door-to-door. Should I be reluctant to get this?

Thanks for the responses.

That model # (AK9434A) is a pre 94 model # and I wouldn't buy it. The current model # is AKA9434AXA, in 94 they added the "generation" and "voltage code" to the model #.
If you or your friend is a contractor you should be able to get a better price for the much newer model AK.

[pargol4]

Since the thing kept trying to cycle on/off, I turned the unit off. The next day, the guy came out and turned it on. All seemed to be 'fine'. It was cooling. When I got home from work, it was acting up again, cycling on/off, and the temp went back up. He came back, and said that he thinks it might be the 'start relay or overload', or something else that I can't remember. Does this sound right? Would this be the 'start component(s)' that some of you have responded about? Is it possible that the compressor really is fine?

Thank you all for your responses.

[coolprod]

Originally posted by pargol4
Since the thing kept trying to cycle on/off, I turned the unit off. The next day, the guy came out and turned it on. All seemed to be 'fine'. It was cooling. When I got home from work, it was acting up again, cycling on/off, and the temp went back up. He came back, and said that he thinks it might be the 'start relay or overload', or something else that I can't remember. Does this sound right? Would this be the 'start component(s)' that some of you have responded about? Is it possible that the compressor really is fine?

Thank you all for your responses.

Yes it could very well be just the start components, but I would have him take superheat, subcooling and amp draw readings to insure the unit is running properly and not causing the compressor to overheat and then trip the O/L.

[fatmomcarl]

I never heard of start components working one minute & not the next & then working then not .. but hey anything is possible.. how about if a system is left off long enough ( hours & hours) the pressures equalize ... start it up & it runs ... after a while & a cooler box all seems well untill it trys to cycle & bang it seems like start components when in actuality the capillary is so restricted after a while it goes into a vacuum, ( before all the abuse compressor may have overcome this slightly until it waxed up more & more) .. yadda yadda yadda at which time the comp cant overcome & it goes out on OL ... true story folks

[pargol4]

So...the guy comes out, replaces the Start relays/capacitors(?) and the Overload(?). Total cost for the parts was about $34. Plugs it back in and it appears to be running and cooling. I get home from work, see that it is plugged in and 'running', and check my thermometer I have in the unit. It is reading about 50 degrees.

Thinking the temp. control is set too low, I go to adjust it and SNAP, CRACKLE, POP...there was a flash of sparks up behind the temp. control, and now it doesn't do anything.

So...I had the guy come out again, with a new temp. control, and I got the call saying 'The cooler is shot. The compressor is bad and it will end up costing more than it is worth. You'd be better off going to Better Buy and buying a new fridge."

I don't neccessarily agree with the idea of it not being worth it. I would assume that whatever it would cost to 'fix' the REAL problem would be a lot less than buying a new residential fridge. Unless I'm wrong, a residential fridge wouldn't even compare with this commercial True unit.

Any thoughts??

Again, thanks for all of the responses.


One more thing, anyone out there from the Far West Suburbs of Chicago, that might be interested in working on this thing?

[pargol4]

I know labor rates are different all over, but any ideas as to how much I could expect to be charged to have the compressor replaced, a drier put in, and a new capillary tube installed?

Thanks.