Boiler sooting up are we dying from CO

[John Dingman]

I'm new to the forum and could use your help. I have a 5 year old (to the day) Slant Fin boiler (model se70dp). Our old boiler was at least 45 years old. When they replaced it was in bad condition. Service man stated Flu pipe rotting out, leaking at eliminator and relief vavle. Due to safety issues he recommended replacement. We agreed.

New boiler installed everything was working for first two years then roll out switched tripped. Service tech says roll out switch open, boiler sooted up, needs mat (?). He quoted us a crazy high price to clean the sooted boiler. We ended up having a different company clean and replace switch. All was well for two years. Now I have been working in my basement on a project and I had to move the boiler. When I took the hood off I see it is completely full of soot and rust again.

Any suggestions or help please. If the roll out switch goes bad does this mean we are getting CO2 in the house?

[monkeyman#1]

Do not take any chances. No one can tell you from here whether or not CO is leaking into your home. Call out a pro and have it tested. I would also recommend that the pro also check that your boiler is getting a proper supply of combustion air, proper combustion analysis done. Good luck.

[dunkman]

Sounds like something may not be burning correctly. Get a company to do a combustion analysis on it to find out why it soots up so fast. Tripping roll out switches is not to be taken lightly.

[Dr.phil]

Can you say, Yearly Maintenance?

[talktowags]

sooting is usually caused by lack of combustion air, or dirty burners which means that yes it is more than likely spilling Co. You really need to call a pro NOW.

[John Dingman]

Thanks Guys. How about instalation issues? Combustable air mix, is this install related? Why did the original chimmey flu pipe rot out? Could this be venting up my chimmey properly? I have it going into my brick chimmey on the outside of the house. I looked down it from the top and it doesn't seem to be plugged.

I know you said yearly maintenance and I agree, but every two years a complete rebuild doesn't seem right.
:cheers:
John

[superfittertech]

do you have a combustion air duct installed and do you have a flue cap installed?

[John Dingman]

Lost me. I have a mushroom cap about two foot off the top of the boiler and a cap on the top of my chimney.

[superfittertech]

a combustion air duct is a duct coming from outside and will terminate somewhere near your boiler. a boiler will soot up with a lack of air.

[beenthere]

Are you using nat gas or LP.

[John Dingman]

natural gas.

Not sure on the combustion air duct? I will look. It is in a low height basement with a outside vented window that I leave open.

[Wheelbaron]

Call the co that installed it and ask if they can do a combustion analysis, if not then find a co that can. How big is the flue in the chimney, and is there anything else sharing the chimney? Did you make the home super tight recently, new windows, doors and so on. The boiler needs the proper amount of combustion air, the right gas pressure and volume, the right flow rate, system pressure, and the right temperature return water. Any one of these things could cause soot.

In short you need a service man that knows boilers. You could try our contractor locate map..:grin2:

[beenthere]

Time you had someone out that knows how to set it up right. After its cleaned, it needs to be set up with a combustion analyzer. Just eye balling the flames doesn't tell anyone anything about how well it is or isn't burning.

The lower priced company you had out, apparently didn't know how to est it up. You need a company that knows what they are dong, and has the proper tools to set it up.

[jpsmith1cm]

sooting is usually caused by lack of combustion air, or dirty burners which means that yes it is more than likely spilling Co. You really need to call a pro NOW.

Talktowags,

Please read and follow AOP forum rules.

Apply for you AOP(*) before posting advice.

Thank you.

[Wheelbaron]

And please come back and tell us what happens with it, we like to give advice and all but it's kind of nice to hear what happens....besides I have $10 on the return water temps :D

[John Dingman]

Agreed. One last question. I looked at the operaters manual and it says the chimney requirements need to have a ceramic liner. It is a brick chimney on the outside of the house.

I have not sealed up the house tight lately. Unfortunalely it is about 130 years old, that is almost impossible to keep it draft free.

Thanks for the help. I will be contacting a professional. I'm just trying to do some homework so I don't get it wrong again.

Thanks
John

[John Dingman]

Talktowags,

Please read and follow AOP forum rules.

Apply for you AOP(*) before posting advice.

Thank you.

Just trying to do some home work. Thanks . The internet and forums work best for quick suggestions on a topic I do not know that much of. These postings have been helpful.

[jpsmith1cm]

Just trying to do some home work. Thanks . The internet and forums work best for quick suggestions on a topic I do not know that much of. These postings have been helpful.

You did nothing wrong.

You asked a good question and have gotten some good advice.

[dandyme]

Thanks Guys. How about instalation issues? Combustable air mix, is this install related? Why did the original chimmey flu pipe rot out? Could this be venting up my chimmey properly? I have it going into my brick chimmey on the outside of the house. I looked down it from the top and it doesn't seem to be plugged.


John

here is a code ?-is there supposed to be a flue liner in that chimney?

someone with knowledge of your states code will need to chime in

[heaterman]

There are issues here that need to be addressed. Sooting of any natural gas appliance is not normal and indicates an incomplete combustion problem, also a major source of CO. There vary well may be a chimney issue, combustion air or lack there of, cold return to the boiler causing sweating and subsequent rusting of burners and vents. This just goes on and on. You need a wet head that understands all of these issues and therefore has the solutions.

[HeyBob]

I do work in Milford Michigan and I also know that the inspectors in that area when doing an inspection always look for the venting instructions to verify proper installation.

I am wondering if this install was even inspected. No chimney liner? Probably wasn't inspected, just saying.

I am thinking you should hold the original installing contractors feet to the fire on that install.

[darctangent]

Agreed. One last question. I looked at the operaters manual and it says the chimney requirements need to have a ceramic liner. It is a brick chimney on the outside of the house.

I have not sealed up the house tight lately. Unfortunalely it is about 130 years old, that is almost impossible to keep it draft free.

Thanks for the help. I will be contacting a professional. I'm just trying to do some homework so I don't get it wrong again.

Thanks
John

John, you could do a lot worse than Hey Bob, He would be a great choice to look at your system as long as he is willing. As stated previously by others you need a real professional, not a wanna-be. something about you system's combustion is off and you need things done right to extend the life of your system.

Please take note the that today's modern systems require more training than older systems! the days of shade tree auto mechanics and "handy man" maintenance are a thing of the past.

[John Dingman]

I think I will go pay a visit to the original installer. I have a copy of my invoice, it does not say anything about an inspection or chimney liner. I will see what he has to say.

then I will contact HeyBob to get it running right.

Thanks for all the suggestions and help.
:cheers:

[pacnw]

as was asked before, please update this thread, OP or HeyBob, thanks.

[hearthman]

When replacing a combustion appliance, the installer has the responsibility to inspect the chimney and ascertain its suitability for the intended use. If you have an unlined chimney then it must be relined-period. The liner must be sized to the appliance and suitable for the intended use.

The vent connectors, too should be properly sized and this is covered in tables located in the code.

If you are still getting sooting after verifying you have the proper size listed chimney liner and have measured the draft to be within mfrs specs or between a certain narrow range and its not spilling flue gases at the base of the boiler, look to ithe appliance itself. Your combustion analyzer is your friend. Measure your water temps in and out. Make sure your entire boiler, burner tubes, etc. are clean as a whistle. Check not only inlet gas pressure but under full load. Check manifold pressure first against mfr. then per combustion analysis. All these things a qualified pro should be able to do and understand. Sooting is a process of elimination. If your installing contractor cannot figure it out you may have to hire another to save the day.

Heybob would be an excellent choice. :.02: