It appears my compressor burned out. What do I need to make sure gets done?

[hooraah]

I'd like to not bore you guys with a ton of backstory so I'll try to give an abridged version of what happened to our AC unit and hope for some advice.

Its a Goodman unit, maybe a 4 ton. I thought I had the model number written down but apparently its the air handler (AR48-1, which is a 4 ton). Anyway

4 weeks ago, cap fails. Couldn't find a place to sell me one on sunday so had to call a tech. Replaces cap, starts right up. Says low side pressure is too low (can't remember pressure but according to his gauge and R22 he said the coil temp inside was 30 deg). I asked if he should fill it, and he said he couldn't because the high side pressure was 230 and climbing (it was a hot day). I asked what we should do to fix it, and his answer was "new unit".

Fast forward to a few days ago. Unit ices over in the middle of the night (85f at night). Thawed it out, changed the filter, blew out the drain line, and started it up, and it worked okay. A day later the compressor tripped the breaker. Did a bunch of tests myself, came to the conclusion that the compressor was grounding through the case (23 ohms from main line to ground).

So, I know I need a new compressor, however, a lot of what I read says that you need to find out WHY the compressor blew. On the surface it appears it was running low on charge (icing over) but I guess I'm confused on why the high side was too high to fill. Is there any test or procedure I should make sure the AC tech that replaces the compressor does to make sure that other parts in the system aren't damaged? Anything I should make sure gets replaced at the same time? Or is standard procedure to just replace the unit, clear the line, vac, and fill?

The compressor MAY be under warranty, I'm trying to find out. If not, I suppose I'll probably replace the whole condenser unit as that seems to be the common suggestion when this happens.

Anything else I can offer as information? I greatly appreciate your suggestions. Thanks.

[yellowirenut]

you need to find a more competent Tech.
He should have taken a lot of other reading besides what his gauges where telling him....temperatures, air flow, supper heat, Sub-cool and on and on.

Find a better tech and you will be running correctly in no time.

[Special Ed]

You need to replace your system. Period.

[Mr Bill]

So, I know I need a new compressor, however, a lot of what I read says that you need to find out WHY the compressor blew.

You will never know that, short of sending it off to a lab, or replacing it and firing the new one up to determine if there is an existing issue that killed it.

[Mr Bill]

You need to replace your system. Period.

I agree! and that is normally what I suggest after a grounded compressor, especially if the system is an older system, but with no serial numbers we don't know.

[Special Ed]

Any Goodman w/a model number of AR48 is at least 15yrs old.

[mason]

If the first tech only took pressure readings he didn't do a very good job, maybe find a better company and ask if they perform superheat/subcooling readings and check delta t across coil, etc. But if they do those things it's a good start. Be careful with all the do it yourself stuff, sometimes it leads to more repairs than you started with. I would say they should have checked for a restriction.

[Mr Bill]

maybe find a better company and ask if they perform superheat/subcooling readings and check delta t across coil, etc.

His compressor is grounded. :gah:

[mason]

Any Goodman w/a model number of AR48 is at least 15yrs old.

If it's 15 yrs old and the comp is grounded, I agree it's time for a new system.

[mason]

His compressor is grounded. :gah:

It's grounded according to the home owner who performed the test himself, I was under the impression we weren't encouraging or supporting DIY work on this site. :gah: :grin2:

[Mr Bill]

It's grounded according to the home owner who performed the test himself, I was under the impression we weren't encouraging or supporting DIY work on this site. :gah: :grin2:
He performed this test "before" he asked any questions here, we have no control over that, and about anyone that knows how to use an ohm meter could perform this easy test. :grin2: We have only made suggestions to were he should go now.

[hooraah]

It's grounded according to the home owner who performed the test himself, I was under the impression we weren't encouraging or supporting DIY work on this site. :gah: :grin2:

Alright, then pretend that a tech came out and tested it and decided that the compressor is grounding through the case :)

I understand that you don't support DIY work and don't encourage it. I may not be a licensed HVAC tech, however, I am a mechanical engineer, and understand enough about circuits. I won't ask for instructions on how to repair items. All I'm doing is gathering data so I can make informed decisions.

[hooraah]

Any Goodman w/a model number of AR48 is at least 15yrs old.

Really? The tech wrote down the number on the repair order, but knowing how great the tech was I suppose even that is suspect. When I get home I'll go and write down the number of the condenser unit.

I could have sworn the model of the condenser was written on the warranty paperwork we got when we purchased the home, but it looks like it just says "Goodman limited warranty" Odd.

I have the SN and model of the compressor if that helps. Is a Copeland CR42K6-PFV-230.

Also, the house was built in 2002.

[jpsmith1cm]

If he did not perform the test properly, he may have gotten inaccurate results.

ASSUMING the compressor IS grounded, a new system is innorder, for sure.

[hooraah]

If the first tech only took pressure readings he didn't do a very good job, maybe find a better company and ask if they perform superheat/subcooling readings and check delta t across coil, etc. But if they do those things it's a good start. Be careful with all the do it yourself stuff, sometimes it leads to more repairs than you started with. I would say they should have checked for a restriction.

Delta T across the evap coil was 16 degrees. He said it should be closer to 20-25 degrees.

Again, I asked what could cause that, and he again replied "new unit".

Then, he spent the rest of the time trying to sell me a maintenance package.

I understand that its a real possibility I'd be better off with a new unit, but the engineer in me wants to know why its running inefficiently.

[mason]

He performed this test "before" he asked any questions here, we have no control over that, and about anyone that knows how to use an ohm meter could perform this easy test. :grin2: We have only made suggestions to were he should go now.

:cheers: I agree. You might be surprised by how often the techs misdiagnose compressor failure at the company I work at, I have followed up three this summer that were other problems. They can't seem to understand that you need to remove the wires or cool off the compressor etc.

[hooraah]

you need to find a more competent Tech.
He should have taken a lot of other reading besides what his gauges where telling him....temperatures, air flow, supper heat, Sub-cool and on and on.

Find a better tech and you will be running correctly in no time.

Thanks. I didn't have much confidence in his ability, but he was the only one that would come out and sell me a very expensive start cap on a sunday morning. I won't be calling them again.

He did do a delta T across the evap coil and came up with 16 degrees. No super-heat or sub-cool though.

As for motor amps, he only wrote on the repair order "amps ok". My fault for not making sure he wrote everything down.

[johnbeck1000]

Again, I asked what could cause that, and he again replied "new unit".

Then, he spent the rest of the time trying to sell me a maintenance package.



Real winner here, selling a maintenance package on a unit that needs to be replaced, LOL! I'd hire a new company if I were you. It's 9 years old so it may be in warranty for the compressor but I'm not sure about Goodman

[Special Ed]

Delta T across the evap coil was 16 degrees. He said it should be closer to 20-25 degrees.

Again, I asked what could cause that, and he again replied "new unit".

Then, he spent the rest of the time trying to sell me a maintenance package.

I understand that its a real possibility I'd be better off with a new unit, but the engineer in me wants to know why its running inefficiently.

I guess now you'll never know if your diagnosis is indeed correct & the compressor is grounded.

But I guess if you wanna be stuck on stupid then, sure, go ahead, have the compressor replaced for no other reason than to try to find out why it's running ineffieciently. But I think you'd be better off getting a load calc done on your home, make sure the lineset is right-sized &/or replace it, & making sure the duct work is correctly sized, etc, etc.

[mason]

Hoorah, it could have been as simple as a dirty condenser coil, note sometimes visual inspection is not sufficient to determine a dirty coil, finer dust and dirt can build up between fins first. It will cost you another service call but a second opinion from a qualified contractor with solid techs might help. I've seen many engineers stumped over why their a/c won't work, it's just a matter of having the experience in this particular application.

[jdblack]

We don't know how he tested that the compressor was grounded. What if the CFM is grounded and not the compressor.

YOU MAY NOT NEED A NEW UNIT. YOU DO NEED A REAL TECHNICIAN.

He should not have left with the system running a low suction. He should have suggested you not to run the system if you did not want him to find out why the suction was low.

[jdblack]

You will never know that, short of sending it off to a lab, or replacing it and firing the new one up to determine if there is an existing issue that killed it.

I disagree. A lot of times I find bad caps, incorrect caps, loose connections, overcharged, bad contactors, low supply voltages, acids, or extended run times without cfm.

I had a homeowner who had the terminals blow out of a compressor while he was standing over it trying to get the CFM to turn with a stick. I pulled up right after it happened and the HO was white as a ghost. :grin2:

[darctangent]

Thanks. I didn't have much confidence in his ability, but he was the only one that would come out and sell me a very expensive start cap on a sunday morning. I won't be calling them again.

He did do a delta T across the evap coil and came up with 16 degrees. No super-heat or sub-cool though.

As for motor amps, he only wrote on the repair order "amps ok". My fault for not making sure he wrote everything down.

Hooraah, you may do what you wish, but let me present a couple of points for consideration.

First, While he may not be the best tech in existence, he DID show up on a Sunday morning. It should also be noted that the low guy on the totem pole often pulls weekend duty, so are you going to judge the company buy the greenest tech they have? Besides all that, there are some systems that I take one look at, or a look and some readings and pretty much know the thing is doomed. I should explain that when I go on a service call I don't generally even bring up a new system. I figure that they called me to fix it, and if I can that's what I'm going to do. Sometimes that's not in the best interest of the customer, but in these times people just don't want to hear they should get a new system and it makes me the bad guy.


The second thing is that you sound like a really, and I mean REALLY difficult customer. I understand being skeptical of everything that goes on in my profession, but that's one more reason to concentrate on getting somebody with the training and experience to design, install, and when necessary, maintain and repair a quality HVAC system. And by the way, that means that when he sells and installs a cap it's going to be expensive. The mere fact that you go looking to DIY yourself though your system diagnostics when I seriously doubt you have the proper tools to do so tells me a great deal. I have a good number of mechanical, electrical, chemical, etc. engineers as customers. Lots of lab types too. Let's see if any of these names ring a bell:

Martin Marietta (now Lockheed Martin)
Ball Aerospace
IBM
NIST
NREL
NCAR
Hewlett Packard
Colorado University at Boulder
Sun Microsystems
Amgen


I have customers that design these things, and work on next-gen technologies, but when it comes to fixing, designing, or installing they need to come to somebody like me.

The point is that while I understand your desire to "know" ,learn and grow, to UNDERSTAND I think you are far too inclined towards stepping on a technician's toes even if you do have one that is properly skilled. You certainly won't get their best work by following them around and looking over their shoulder.

:.02:

[hooraah]

I guess now you'll never know if your diagnosis is indeed correct & the compressor is grounded.

But I guess if you wanna be stuck on stupid then, sure, go ahead, have the compressor replaced for no other reason than to try to find out why it's running ineffieciently. But I think you'd be better off getting a load calc done on your home, make sure the lineset is right-sized &/or replace it, & making sure the duct work is correctly sized, etc, etc.

I think you misunderstand. I'm not replacing the compressor for "no other reason" than to find out why its running inefficiently. I'm replacing it because it trips the breaker when connected and shows 24 ohms to ground.

The original tech 4 weeks ago suggested replacing everything due to it running inefficiently. Now its not running at all.

[darctangent]

I think you misunderstand. I'm not replacing the compressor for "no other reason" than to find out why its running inefficiently. I'm replacing it because it trips the breaker when connected and shows 24 ohms to ground.

The original tech 4 weeks ago suggested replacing everything due to it running inefficiently. Now its not running at all.

I guess he wasn't that far off the mark, was he?

If you want something to test, I would strongly suggest you test airflow. That can be done just as well today as a month ago.

If you are so inclined you can have your compressor oil tested for acid and moisture.

Of course all of this costs money, but anything of value does.

[darctangent]

I had a homeowner who had the terminals blow out of a compressor while he was standing over it trying to get the CFM to turn with a stick. I pulled up right after it happened and the HO was white as a ghost. :grin2:

Wouldn't that make for a great Christmas Card? LOL I'd like to have a picture of that one...

Great DIY cautionary tale.

[jdblack]

Wouldn't that make for a great Christmas Card? LOL I'd like to have a picture of that one...

Great DIY cautionary tale.

When I pulled up in the driveway his daughter came running around the corner yelling at me, "Where have you been, the unit just exploded!"

There was a nice low lying fog in all of the leaves and the entire inside of the unit was covered in oil. Awesome.

[catmanacman]

if it were me a 9 year old goodman with a grounded compressor and a possible restriction, a complete new system would be a good option

[Cajunhvac]

I have the SN and model of the compressor if that helps. Is a Copeland CR42K6-PFV-230.



You just did an excellent job of not providing information.

You said you had the model and serial number, the serial number is what was needed to determine the age of the compressor and you only posted the model number.

(for what it's worth, that's a reciprocating, R22, 42,000btu, 208-230volt single phase, and it's the original compressor that came in the unit...probably)

Anyway, first 2 digits of the serial will tell you the age. 00=2000, 01=2001, etc.

[hooraah]

You just did an excellent job of not providing information.

You said you had the model and serial number, the serial number is what was needed to determine the age of the compressor and you only posted the model number.

(for what it's worth, that's a reciprocating, R22, 42,000btu, 208-230volt single phase, and it's the original compressor that came in the unit...probably)

Anyway, first 2 digits of the serial will tell you the age. 00=2000, 01=2001, etc.

S/N: 02G12228H

[smittyii]

putting a new hard start on a compressor with a weak winding can certainly kill it. your question is why did it have a weak winding? there are many reasons a compressor winding gets weak. many of those reasons have been mentioned here. unfortunately some of those reasons are unknowable. maybe an airflow problem,maybe heat from a dirty condenser, maybe a clogged piston (compressors hate starting against a restriction). whatever it was, those conditions will either still exist or they won't. everyone here seems to agree that if they still exist , replacing the compressor will be a very expensive experiment. bad news is never fun, but it is time to forget solving the unsolvable and move on.:.02:

[hooraah]

putting a new hard start on a compressor with a weak winding can certainly kill it. your question is why did it have a weak winding? there are many reasons a compressor winding gets weak. many of those reasons have been mentioned here. unfortunately some of those reasons are unknowable. maybe an airflow problem,maybe heat from a dirty condenser, maybe a clogged piston (compressors hate starting against a restriction). whatever it was, those conditions will either still exist or they won't. everyone here seems to agree that if they still exist , replacing the compressor will be a very expensive experiment. bad news is never fun, but it is time to forget solving the unsolvable and move on.:.02:

Thanks for the reply. We didn't add a hard start kit, we just replaced the capacitor that went bad.

Anyway, when you guys say to replace the "unit", are you talking about just the condensing unit? Or the condensing unit and the air handler?

I understand replacing the condensing unit as a whole, but I don't understand the point of replacing the air handler and evap coil as well. What are the benefits of replacing the air handler at the same time?

[smittyii]

When I pulled up in the driveway his daughter came running around the corner yelling at me, "Where have you been, the unit just exploded!"

There was a nice low lying fog in all of the leaves and the entire inside of the unit was covered in oil. Awesome.

seen it, done it, wish i had the tshirt.:D

[smittyii]

Thanks for the reply. We didn't add a hard start kit, we just replaced the capacitor that went bad.

Anyway, when you guys say to replace the "unit", are you talking about just the condensing unit? Or the condensing unit and the air handler?

I understand replacing the condensing unit as a whole, but I don't understand the point of replacing the air handler and evap coil as well. What are the benefits of replacing the air handler at the same time?
if it was just a run cap replaced, you could still have a restriction in the evap. just curious , what type filter do you use?

[hooraah]

if it was just a run cap replaced, you could still have a restriction in the evap. just curious , what type filter do you use?

It was a dual cap - run and start.

I use Filtretes.....3m I think?

[smittyii]

It was a dual cap - run and start.

I use Filtretes.....3m I think?

just my opinion.... 3m filtretes kill compressors.

[darctangent]

It was a dual cap - run and start.

I use Filtretes.....3m I think?

LOL ROTHFOLMAO.


oh man.

You Hit the funny bone With that one man.

What size filter? 16x20x1?

awesome.

[blitz]

time for a new system brotha! just get the condenser replaced, new line set, and matched evap coil. and have a thorough cleaning of air handler/ furnace. and get rid of the 3m filtrette junk. if you're gonna use them you have to change them religiously on a monthly period. no if or but.

[darctangent]

time for a new system brotha! just get the condenser replaced, new line set, and matched evap coil. and have a thorough cleaning of air handler/ furnace. and get rid of the 3m filtrette junk. if you're gonna use them you have to change them religiously on a monthly period. no if or but.

Better yet, skip the filtrete all together. Have them put in a media filter, It'll be your favorite part of the system!

[johnbeck1000]

Do you guys see a lot of the "Paul Harvey" filters? I don't know their real name but when I was on my 6 month training 10 years ago my trainer didn't like them because they were motor killers. You can cut them down and I believe they are blackish colored material with wire mesh in the middle with an aluminum frame and 1" in thickness. Forgive me as I haven't seen one for years.

[darctangent]

LOL ROTHFOLMAO.


oh man.

You Hit the funny bone With that one man.

What size filter? 16x20x1?

awesome.

I guess it would be more like 20x20x1 -still an incredibly bad idea.

Do I remember correctly, you have a 3 1/2 ton system, right?

ok, so that's a nominal 1400 CFM assuming sea level that we need to shoot for.

ok.

...pulling out calculator...

so that's....(drum roll please)


you need to move all the air in a room that is 12 feet long by 12 feet wide by 9 feet 9 inches tall...

EVERY MINUTE.

Every minute that system is operating. now go get one of those filters and take a good look at it. even when the filter is clean it's obvious that would be next to impossible.

Congratulations Mr engineer, you killed your compressor!


There were other likely shortcomings to your system, but that air filter was really yummy icing on the cake.

PAY A REAL PROFESSIONAL for your next system and be glad that you did.

[hooraah]

I guess it would be more like 20x20x1 -still an incredibly bad idea.



Its 24x24x1, and its the largest that fits in the AHU. Purchasing a filter from home depot off the shelf that fit the AHU is what killed the compressor?

[darctangent]

Its 24x24x1, and its the largest that fits in the AHU. Purchasing a filter from home depot off the shelf that fit the AHU is what killed the compressor?

exclusively, definativly, no. that's not safe to say.

But it wasn't good for it...

review my calculations.

Look at a CLEAN air filter.

Use your gut and tell me how that seems to work- 1400CFM through the filter you bought.

What version of the Filtete air filter did you buy? I wouldn't use any of them, but some are better than others.

PAY FOR A REAL PROFESSIONAL TO BE ON SITE.

[hooraah]

exclusively, definativly, no. that's not safe to say.



Thats what I thought.

[darctangent]

Thats what I thought.

Dude, What do you want out of me? I'm not there.

I'm getting almost no data out of you that I can use. Those filters are so very bad for your system that it's not really debatable, not even close to the margins when it comes to the technical data that I can generically apply to a AC & Heat Pump system. It's just that I can't hope to see your system from my house. even if I could, it's not running. That limits us in what can be tested. I told you what could be field tested, but you aren't responding to that. Instead you try to show me that I don't know what I'm talking about, but I'm afraid that you've got that one turned around. Get somebody that can test airflow and test for acid and moisture. additionally if you feel like waiting around for two to three months, send your compressor in for a forensic analysis. It may or may not be conclusive, but you get to play investigator a little while longer while you are uncomfortable.

Almost every professional that has responded has told you it's time for a new system. That doesn't happen very often. Most of the time there's more of a mix. Burnt (open) electrical windings are a very bad thing in the world of refrigeration. If you want to roll the dice, be my guest. get a contractor that doesn't know what we know and make sure you come back and post lots and lots of pictures for us. Please. PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE! We love that stuff.

Can you test the system the way I can?

Do you have a contractor that can?

Do you know how to find out who knows what they are doing and who doesn't?

What do you want from us?


I get paid huge goobs of money for my experience, but you want to find a way to dismiss it, maybe because you aren't paying for it.

I'm telling you that YOU NEED A REAL PROFESSIONAL ON SITE.

I think that's the third time I said that.

[hooraah]

I think that's the third time I said that.

That doesn't make it true.

[jpsmith1cm]

That doesn't make it true.

It is true, regardless or your opinion.

You came here asking for advice. You got it and now you want to argue with us because you don't like what we are telling you.

[hooraah]

It is true, regardless or your opinion.

You came here asking for advice. You got it and now you want to argue with us because you don't like what we are telling you.

I don't dispute that I may need a new unit. That a filter off the shelf from a home improvement store caused a compressor failure makes me scratch my head a bit.

[darctangent]

I don't dispute that I may need a new unit. That a filter off the shelf from a home improvement store caused a compressor failure makes me scratch my head a bit.

Oh dear lord.

How is it that Home depot, 3M, or you has been given to know what works in the world of HVACR.

Skip the line about you being a mechanical engineer, it doesn't matter here if you aren't willing to run the numbers with us on a simple issue of airflow, and while I must admit I am loosing patience with this discussion where a better man than me might not, I have the right to withdraw my assistance where and when I wish.

Does anyone else wish to debate the sun rising with this gentleman?

[jpsmith1cm]

First if all, we aren't 100% certain that the compressor is dead. Without knowing if you tested for grounds correctly, I cannot confirm your diagnosis.

Now, understanding that adequate airflow is critical not only for proper comfort purposes, but also for proper system operation, which includes proper superheat. If the system isn't moving the correct amount of air, you are putting your compressor at risk.

Add in a few other minor system defects like undersized ductwork, a dirty coil or filter or other system component, and that risk increases manyfold.

Now, you are arguing with people who do this every day. People who know this stuff better than you do, quite frankly. Not wise if you want to come back and ask questions about a new system *wink wink wink*

My advice to you. Contact a different, qualified contractor, have them come out on Monday and make a diagnosis for you. Please feel free to share it here.

[hooraah]

I am loosing patience with this discussion where a better man than me might not, I have the right to withdraw my assistance where and when I wish.

Bye

[darctangent]

BTW, when you say "Unit" I suspect that you are saying "condensing unit"

that is NOT my, or others recommendation.

We are in the main recommending a new SYSTEM.

[jdblack]

I don't dispute that I may need a new unit. That a filter off the shelf from a home improvement store caused a compressor failure makes me scratch my head a bit.

Have you ever heard the saying, "The straw that broke the camels back."

Any restriction to airflow WILL cause problems. You compound multiple problems....like a possible overcharge....dirty coil....poorly designed duct system....and a restrictive air filter and you have a recipe for disaster.


You had to call in a professional to work on it and after you talked to him you told yourself, "I can do it if that guy can.", but changing parts is not a very technical task to take on.

In this trade I find people who are parts changers, and I find Technicians.
Don't confuse the two.

[darctangent]

BTW, when you say "Unit" I suspect that you are saying "condensing unit"

that is NOT my, or others recommendation.

We are in the main recommending a new SYSTEM.

I think that post deserves some clarification.

I am basing my recommendation on what you have been able to tell us. I am accepting your analysis that the terminals at the compressor are indeed open, and you measured in the proper way. As Jpsmith pointed out, you COULD have made a mistake. It happens to us, so it can happen to you. If the real circumstances are otherwise than I would have different advice. You could have a lock rotor compressor, which is a different scenario. It could be something else entirely. We can only judge base on what you tell us, and that isn't enough to be conclusive.

This has no bearing on my assessment of Filtrete air filters however. If I were king for a day I would tell (almost) everybody to get media filters, providing that their circumstances allowed it. none of this can be proven in a concrete fashion without knowing a great many things about your system. That is why I suggest that you give VERY careful consideration to the next technician that comes to your home.

Things that don't tell you what you want to know about a contractor but will surprise you:

the size of the ad in the phone book, or the number of pages to the website
The number of years they have been in business
the number of referrals
the professional athlete who is their spokesperson
the number of dealer or local community awards they have

I know you are rejecting my advice out of hand at this point because 3M MUST know more than I do, but let me ask you this- does 3M make or install HVAC systems?

I design, modify, install, maintain, troubleshoot and repair them.

I am the number one or two guy in Colorado to trouble shoot bad installs of one of the most complicated residential Heat pump systems anywhere. That's not from me, that's from the guy that does the technical training for them.

I on occasion, correct manufactures documentation.

Why am I not qualified to know what works and what doesn't.

Much of what you THINK you know you don't.

If you don't believe me, then do some searches. Here. elsewhere. you will see a striking number of instances that remark on the restrictive nature of many 1" filters, not just 3M. If the 3M filter had a much larger surface area, it would be OK for most systems, but you can't get that in a 1" filter, so your only choice is too reduce the density of the filter media, at which time you don't have a 3M filter anymore. Do you GET IT NOW? IT STOPS/SLOWS TOO MUCH AIR IN ORDER TO FILTER OUT ALL THE PARTICULATE!!!

Have you ever wondered why a typical RO water filter system can't filter 10 gallons a minute? clue- it's too restrictive!

[catmanacman]

Thanks for the reply. We didn't add a hard start kit, we just replaced the capacitor that went bad.

Anyway, when you guys say to replace the "unit", are you talking about just the condensing unit? Or the condensing unit and the air handler?

I understand replacing the condensing unit as a whole, but I don't understand the point of replacing the air handler and evap coil as well. What are the benefits of replacing the air handler at the same time?

the unit is a r22 unit and r22 is being phased out ,time to go to a 410 a unit also would be a good time to get a more efficient unit , it would also be a good time to add either a honeywell media filter or a aprilair media filter to your unit this is just for starters. also your refrigerant system is probably contaminated and would need a cleanup and then you go the compressor replacement and being a 9 year old if the evap coil is not leaking refrigerant it won't be long till it is ,have you ever had refrigerant added to it?

[jpsmith1cm]

I understand replacing the condensing unit as a whole, but I don't understand the point of replacing the air handler and evap coil as well. What are the benefits of replacing the air handler at the same time?

Installing a system that is "matched" will give you optimum efficiency and comfort.

In order to have a "matched" system, the exact combination has to have been tested by the manufacturer and certified to meet certain standards.

If you do not have a matched system, you efficiency will not be close to that which is advertised.

Of course, even with a matched system, you need to have correct airflow, correct control setup and have the system correctly charged to achieve anything close to stated efficiency.

[johnbeck1000]

1" filters are more restrictive than a 2" filter. An older journeyman explained it too me when I first started 11 years ago and I've done everything in my power to not put 1" filters in ever again. My experience with HD or Lowes is they will try and sell you the most expensive filter on the market and they are very restrictive and especially the 1" filters.