"Stupid Question"

[mxylplik2]

I have a home theater room that I want to have a central air supply duct installed. Being that this is a home theater room, I do not want noise to escape and thus, will be installing a solid-core door with weather-stripping (i.e., no door with undercut at the bottom to allow air to escape). I also have a single-large return in the hallway. Here is my question:

With no return duct in that room and with the door closed, will the room get cool just by cold air entering it from the supply duct?

[Gunnery Sergeant Hartman]

No.
You will need a Manual J and D ran on the room and an individual zone control for the room.

My guess is you will take the cheap route, add a supply, and complain until you move out of the house...

[tpa-fl]

I think you've already answered your own question...

"no door with undercut at the bottom to allow air to escape"

Without any way for the air to leave the room, there's no way to put air in the room. At the very least, you need to put some sort of way for the air to leave the room.

[millerman]

Performance will be poor with no return path.

[millerman]

Originally posted by Yellow Dot


My guess is you will take the cheap route, add a supply, and complain until you move out of the house... [/B]


Ouch :eek:

Where did you get that from?

My guess is he want's a quite room.

[ct2]

no door with undercut at the bottom to allow air to escape"

Without any way for the air to leave the room, there's no way to put air in the room. At the very least, you need to put some sort of way for the air to leave the room.

Yea but he knew that before he posted . I am going with Yellow Dot

the real answer is :My guess is you will take the cheap route, add a supply, and complain until you move out of the house..

[mxylplik2]

Sounds like maybe I should go with a mini-split or space-pak (high velocity) system? Or maybe I can just leave the door slightly ajar.

[ct2]

Like that air gap under the door will really affect your home theaters sound

[dave and julie]

I think the point was to keep the sound in the room.

[mxylplik2]

--->Without any way for the air to leave the room, there's no way to put air in the room. At the very least, you need to put some sort of way for the air to leave the room. <---

Well the room can't be air tight. Are you saying the air handler will blow the air down the ductwork, heading for that room, but it won't go in the room just because there isn't the same amount of air leaving the room?

[t527ed]

that is correct. if air cannot easily flow into closed room it will go into other rooms that it can

[dave and julie]

If air could not leave and still entered, you could have the world's first home theater/hyperbaric chamber.

[tpa-fl]

Mxylpik2: yep, you're got it right about the airflow... Imagine the room as a water jug. Try to add water to an already full jug. Without anywhere for the new water to go, you're not going to be getting much new water into it.

Without seeing the space, it's difficult to say what the best option is, but high velocity usually = high noise. I usually oversize diffusers/registers substantially to reduce noise. Mini-splits are quiet(ish), but most still make noise. Mitsu does make some commerical mini-splits which can be ducted, and there's all sorts of silencing techniques which exist.

What level home theater is this? Are we talking a room with a TV & home theater in a box? A big-screen TV & component system? A whole custom room w/custom theater seats, projector, and rack-mounted equipment? This makes a difference in both terms of additional heat load and what your budget probably is. Projectors, Class A amps, and isolation transformers all are practically space heaters.

[dash]

Put in a jumper return or duct a return to the room.


Jumper is ,correctly sized grille in ceiling of the room,plus one in the hall or living area,connected with the correct size flex duct.Path for the air to get back to the main return.

[frigetater]

now that my friends was a good simple answer to his question

[mxylplik2]

Originally posted by tpa-fl

What level home theater is this? Are we talking a room with a TV & home theater in a box? A big-screen TV & component system? A whole custom room w/custom theater seats, projector, and rack-mounted equipment? This makes a difference in both terms of additional heat load and what your budget probably is. Projectors, Class A amps, and isolation transformers all are practically space heaters.

A big screen and home theater receiver and not a HTIB . 11 x 15

[mxylplik2]

Originally posted by dash
Put in a jumper return or duct a return to the room.


Jumper is ,correctly sized grille in ceiling of the room,plus one in the hall or living area,connected with the correct size flex duct.Path for the air to get back to the main return.

But that defeats trying to seal the noise from the room - that noise will go into the hallway where the return is - maybe it can be muffled somehow - insulated ductwork and bends - any ideas about that?

[dash]

Flex duct doesn't transmit a lot of noise,and your other choice is a ducted return,flex or ductboard the noise will not "get out of the room".


Yes 90° turns help reduce noise.

[Irascible]

I don't get all the uncalled for criticism and angst from the so called pros. Not all homeowners are cheap dolts. Assuming so before he's had a chance to say much of anything is idiotic. I'd suggest seeing a proctologist for whatever's stuck up your bum.

Just do what Dash says and be done with it mxylplik2. Put in a ducted supply and return. Make sure your company selects the diffuser based on the manufacturer’s noise criteria data. Make sure the ducts are slightly oversized and installed with a damper so it can be tuned to the airflow you need.