Block of ice on evaporator coil - Hotpoint fridge

[roche]

I have a ~10 years old Hotpoint refrigerator model RT189RLW-1 which has been working flawless for 10 years. I had to shut it down for a month earlier this year for a long term vacation.

When I came back, I turned it on and I have problems since. The fridge and the freezer are not cold enough. I had a look at the evaporator coils and there is a block of ice on a section of the coil (about 10% of it).

I think the auto defrost does not turn on because it never become cold enough in there.

I tried to let it sit and when I turn it on again I get the same problem after a day. I have read that this might be a refrigeration system problem.

Am I right?

[orland25]

hi Roche; you maybe has probelm with the filter. To be sure put the gauge,and it read what says in boht sides,in Succion and discharge. If your read under zero in Succion and your read 100psig or more in discharge,you need to floosh the cap system with freon,and put another filter. that is your problem i am sure, GOOD DAY / BUENOS DIAS

[smilies]

Originally posted by orland25
you need to floosh the cap system with freon GOOD DAY / BUENOS DIAS

They still let you do that in Puerto Rock?

[orland25]

recovering first the freon, CLEARLY THAT IF here in Puerto Rico is the same federal laws,I have my epa license here and state deparment license, and imaca lic and my official technical lic, thank

[roche]

Originally posted by orland25
hi Roche; you maybe has probelm with the filter. To be sure put the gauge,and it read what says in boht sides,in Succion and discharge. If your read under zero in Succion and your read 100psig or more in discharge,you need to floosh the cap system with freon,and put another filter. that is your problem i am sure, GOOD DAY / BUENOS DIAS

Thanks for your input. I guess this is not something a "do it yourselfer" could do?

[craig1]

i doubt you have a problem with the refrigeration system
if this is a resisdential fridge, the refrigeration system is sealed anyways.

you probably have a bad fan or defrost timer. both of these are mechanical parts and they can rust up when they are left off for extended periods of time.

get and appliance repairman to take a look at it. if there really is a problem with the refrigeration system, it won't be cost effective to fix it, just buy a new one. however, if the problem is the defrost timer, it can be fixed for a reasonable cost.

[roche]

Originally posted by craig1
i doubt you have a problem with the refrigeration system
if this is a resisdential fridge, the refrigeration system is sealed anyways.

you probably have a bad fan or defrost timer. both of these are mechanical parts and they can rust up when they are left off for extended periods of time.

get and appliance repairman to take a look at it. if there really is a problem with the refrigeration system, it won't be cost effective to fix it, just buy a new one. however, if the problem is the defrost timer, it can be fixed for a reasonable cost.

That's what I though too. I checked those parts and they are ok. What lead me to beleive it's the refrigeration system is the fact that the frost is on a small part of the coil only.

If it's the compressor I'm lucky cause it's still under warranty.



[Edited by roche on 06-20-2005 at 03:10 PM]

[orland25]

I told you which was the problem,OPEN THE SYSTEM AND CLEAN AND CHANGE THE FILTER.And put new freon. that your problem.

[hvacguy1075]

sounds like you have a low capacity compressor or low on refrigerant.

[dnt]

I have found that a man has to be careful on his diagnosis on these little refrigerator units, at first I thought it was a low refrigerant problem. I did not realize that the evaporator was a solid block of ice when I popped a line tap on and my gauge it was showing about 5 hg should have stopped right there but NO mr fixit residential and MVAC thought he knew what was happening obviously a leak somewhere hmmm 1st mistake. Anyway recovered what was in there and of course did not go to the trouble of measuring it ARGH 2nd mistake. Next gassed that puppy up with two ounces of R22 and dry nitrogen at150 psig went over all areas with electronic leak detector no leaks on exposed lines, but kept getting a reading at any openings in the skin like for refrigerant and electrical line penetrations must the Yoder Condensor line leaking 3rd mistake apparently the foam insulation material contains something thast makes a electronic leak detector go crazy. I Vacuumed down and gassed back up with 5 ounces of R134a and decided I was thru and would wait to see how long it takes for it to leak out 4rth mistake. Refrigerator continued doing exactly what it was doing before (freezing up) so went back over and pulled the cover off the front of the evap in the freezer compartment noted the evap was frosting nice and even as it should shut it down and checked defrost heater hmmmm no continuity it was the heater the whole time. FIXED replaced the defrost heater. These things are whole different animals from MVAC or Residential it is amazing that the evaporator runs at 40 below zero takes a bit of getting used to. If you do not want to go thru the learning process I had to go thru first check the basics the defrost timer/defrost thermostat and defrost heater coils before going to the sealed refrigerant system.

[orland25]

I tell you the same, you need both gauge to determine the problem,READ low and h side. you has a block in the CAP/ TUBE

[dnt]

roche how are you doing on that fridge? How did you check your defrost system? The reason I ask is I ran across a real neat temperature data logger made by Supco (model SL200C) it is about the size of a matchbox you hook it to your computer (comes with the software package) set it up on timed intervals to take temp readings (I used two minute intervals) and how long (I used 48 hrs) then you simply place it in the freezer compartment you can check the temps for a day or so pull it out and hook it up to the computer and it grphs out the temps including dates and times, this will let you know if your defrost is actually coming and the timing of its cycles, it is totally amazing you can see every cycle of the compressor as the temps slightly rise and fall and then the major spike when the defrost kicks on. Cannot beat the deal about 60 bucks and will have multiple uses plus fun to play with LOL, much easier than opening a sealed hermetic system and trying to flush it LOL. I have noticed that all small systems will tend to from more actual ice in some areas than others. The frost should be even though on the evaporator after you first start the system (after it has been off and completely thawed out) about ten minutes after you restart it. If you are not getting a even frost pattern you probably do have a refrigerant problem. Do you have the type of fridge where you can pull the cover off so you can observe the evaporator? Anyway hate to see a man toss a good fridge that might just need a defrost heater/defrost timer or defrost thermostat.

[hvacguy1075]

if the evaperator just has a small portion of it iced up before defrost this indicates a sealed system problem, the compressor could be weak the system could be low on charge and yes we cant forget about the restricted cap tub. the defrost system consistes of one defrost timer one defrost bimetal [ defrost thermostat ] and the defrost heater element or elements. ok if the evaporator is not frosted enough to have frost on the defrost bymetal when the defrost timer puts it in defrost the defrost heater will turn on for a very short time and then de energize because the defrost bimetal is not touching any frost on the evaporator.it realy doesnt sound like a defrost problem. let us know what happens. and as orland says you have to have guages to find the problem with the sealed refrigeration system.