View Full Version : inter city products gas furnace problem
xboxman
02-05-2011, 05:39 PM
Hi Everyone
working on a inter city products gas furnace
Model NDGG100DF03
867.766132 ( i think this is what it is as it was hard to see )
ok we put a new thermocouple on it ( we didnt have or could get the right one at the time so we made one fit) and it worked good for 3 months or so then wouldn't kick on so we got the right one for this model still didnt work we then found a rollout switch had tripped reset that and it work good for a few hours we check it again found the same rollout switch tripped so we put a new rollout switch on it worked good for a few hours then would not kick on so we put a new thermostat on and set it for 68 F well then it worked just fine for 2 or 3 days then same thing will not kick on and the roll out switch tripped so the guy at the house tells me that when they set the hest up to about 70 or 70 F is when it stopped working ... so now we are thinking that the fan limit switch maybe the problem ???? so times the fan will run but no heat on ( customer said it just blows cold air some times ) we also check both rollout switchs and the vent switch all test ok
it seems that when they turn up the heat is when it tripps the rollout switch the guy said he turned it down when he went to bed last night and today when they got up he turned it up and and after it kicked off it wound't kick back on
anyone have any idea ??
thanks
seatonheating
02-05-2011, 05:44 PM
Hi Everyone
working on a inter city products gas furnace
Model NDGG100DF03
867.766132 ( i think this is what it is as it was hard to see )
ok we put a new thermocouple on it ( we didnt have or could get the right one at the time so we made one fit) and it worked good for 3 months or so then wouldn't kick on so we got the right one for this model still didnt work we then found a rollout switch had tripped reset that and it work good for a few hours we check it again found the same rollout switch tripped so we put a new rollout switch on it worked good for a few hours then would not kick on so we put a new thermostat on and set it for 68 F well then it worked just fine for 2 or 3 days then same thing will not kick on and the roll out switch tripped so the guy at the house tells me that when they set the hest up to about 70 or 70 F is when it stopped working ... so now we are thinking that the fan limit switch maybe the problem ???? so times the fan will run but no heat on ( customer said it just blows cold air some times ) we also check both rollout switchs and the vent switch all test ok
it seems that when they turn up the heat is when it tripps the rollout switch the guy said he turned it down when he went to bed last night and today when they got up he turned it up and and after it kicked off it wound't kick back on
anyone have any idea ??
thanks
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BaldLoonie
02-05-2011, 06:19 PM
Old 60%er? Rollout trips? I'd suspect bad HX. Time to replace.
tipsrfine
02-05-2011, 06:24 PM
Get an experienced tech on this one. Could be something dangerous. The roll-out is probably just doing its job.
tipsrfine
02-05-2011, 06:31 PM
Old 60%er? Rollout trips? I'd suspect bad HX. Time to replace.
I just can't remember seeing any old 60%'ers with rollout switches. Also, I can't remember seeing rollout switches in the same furnace with a thermocoupler.
khc95
02-05-2011, 06:42 PM
Just keep changing parts, I liked the changing of the thermostate it seems relevant .....
xboxman
02-05-2011, 06:44 PM
i think i saw on the model info tag 1990 not sure if thats the date on the unit or not but it may be
thanks
xboxman
02-05-2011, 06:47 PM
Just keep changing parts, I liked the changing of the thermostate it seems relevant .....
well the other guy some how got some wires wrong and blow the old thermostate LOL so we had to put on a new one on
seatonheating
02-05-2011, 06:49 PM
well the other guy some how got some wires wrong and blow the old thermostate LOL so we had to put on a new one on
No DIY. Call out someone who knows what they are doing before someone gets hurt.
coolwhip
02-05-2011, 06:50 PM
Hi Everyone
working on a inter city products gas furnace
Model NDGG100DF03
867.766132 ( i think this is what it is as it was hard to see )
ok we put a new thermocouple on it ( we didnt have or could get the right one at the time so we made one fit) and it worked good for 3 months or so then wouldn't kick on so we got the right one for this model still didnt work we then found a rollout switch had tripped reset that and it work good for a few hours we check it again found the same rollout switch tripped so we put a new rollout switch on it worked good for a few hours then would not kick on so we put a new thermostat on and set it for 68 F well then it worked just fine for 2 or 3 days then same thing will not kick on and the roll out switch tripped so the guy at the house tells me that when they set the hest up to about 70 or 70 F is when it stopped working ... so now we are thinking that the fan limit switch maybe the problem ???? so times the fan will run but no heat on ( customer said it just blows cold air some times ) we also check both rollout switchs and the vent switch all test ok
it seems that when they turn up the heat is when it tripps the rollout switch the guy said he turned it down when he went to bed last night and today when they got up he turned it up and and after it kicked off it wound't kick back on
anyone have any idea ??
thanks
:LOL:
khc95
02-05-2011, 06:55 PM
:LOL:
Ya I just chuckled thru the whole thing....
chuckcrj
02-05-2011, 07:12 PM
Have you tried a new filter?
You can keep putting parts on it or you can call a reputable heating contractor and actually get it fixed. Unless its beyond repair.
seatonheating
02-05-2011, 07:13 PM
:LOL:
C'mon, parts changers need love too!!
coolwhip
02-05-2011, 09:13 PM
Im sorry man...but after reading this I busted out in laughter....it seems so innocent too. lolz
Hi Everyone
working on a inter city products gas furnace
Model NDGG100DF03
867.766132 ( i think this is what it is as it was hard to see )
ok we put a new thermocouple on it ( we didnt have or could get the right one at the time so we made one fit) and it worked good for 3 months or so then wouldn't kick on so we got the right one for this model still didnt work we then found a rollout switch had tripped reset that and it work good for a few hours we check it again found the same rollout switch tripped so we put a new rollout switch on it worked good for a few hours then would not kick on so we put a new thermostat on and set it for 68 F well then it worked just fine for 2 or 3 days then same thing will not kick on and the roll out switch tripped so the guy at the house tells me that when they set the hest up to about 70 or 70 F is when it stopped working ... so now we are thinking that the fan limit switch maybe the problem ???? so times the fan will run but no heat on ( customer said it just blows cold air some times ) we also check both rollout switchs and the vent switch all test ok
it seems that when they turn up the heat is when it tripps the rollout switch the guy said he turned it down when he went to bed last night and today when they got up he turned it up and and after it kicked off it wound't kick back on
anyone have any idea ??[/FONT]
thanks
How about just bypassing the pesky rollout safety and fan/limit switch? Better yet, disconnect the stack and make it 100% efficient.
khc95
02-05-2011, 09:34 PM
Let the sarcasm begin.........:yes:
tipsrfine
02-05-2011, 09:37 PM
Let the sarcasm begin.........:yes:
That 'dang squirrel got loose from the blower wheel again!
polar ice
02-06-2011, 06:58 AM
How about just bypassing the pesky rollout safety and fan/limit switch? Better yet, disconnect the stack and make it 100% efficient.
I had an engineer call me once for a no cooling call. I arrived and found evap frozen solid...to the point of plenum expansion. I found the evap plugged with dryer lint..solid 4 to 5 inches thick. The blower was full, as was the secondary heat exchanger. Funny the house was only 2 years old. I told him this, and showed him and I could see he was squirming. He had ran his dryer duct to the return air, below downstream of his fancy electronic Trane clean effects air cleaner. He wanted the heat and humidity in the house for the winter. He hooked it downstream of the air cleaner as to not "short" the air cleaner with moisture.:beat: Best part was it was a gas dryer, and it didn't work properly when the furnace was on. A white goods appliance tech was in for numerous calls on the dryer and never clued in. I had to replace primary heat exchanger for a crack. Just for the heck of it, I asked him how his gas bills were, he said large. I guess short cycling on limit is expensive.
chuckcrj
02-06-2011, 10:01 AM
The engineer always has a better idea.
dave sulz
02-06-2011, 04:46 PM
did anyone have a volt meter.
khc95
02-06-2011, 05:24 PM
I had an engineer call me once for a no cooling call. I arrived and found evap frozen solid...to the point of plenum expansion. I found the evap plugged with dryer lint..solid 4 to 5 inches thick. The blower was full, as was the secondary heat exchanger. Funny the house was only 2 years old. I told him this, and showed him and I could see he was squirming. He had ran his dryer duct to the return air, below downstream of his fancy electronic Trane clean effects air cleaner. He wanted the heat and humidity in the house for the winter. He hooked it downstream of the air cleaner as to not "short" the air cleaner with moisture.:beat: Best part was it was a gas dryer, and it didn't work properly when the furnace was on. A white goods appliance tech was in for numerous calls on the dryer and never clued in. I had to replace primary heat exchanger for a crack. Just for the heck of it, I asked him how his gas bills were, he said large. I guess short cycling on limit is expensive.
Engineer !!! Enginner of what !!! That is absolutely priceless !!!::DD:
I had an engineer call me once for a no cooling call. I arrived and found evap frozen solid...to the point of plenum expansion. I found the evap plugged with dryer lint..solid 4 to 5 inches thick. The blower was full, as was the secondary heat exchanger. Funny the house was only 2 years old. I told him this, and showed him and I could see he was squirming. He had ran his dryer duct to the return air, below downstream of his fancy electronic Trane clean effects air cleaner. He wanted the heat and humidity in the house for the winter. He hooked it downstream of the air cleaner as to not "short" the air cleaner with moisture.:beat: Best part was it was a gas dryer, and it didn't work properly when the furnace was on. A white goods appliance tech was in for numerous calls on the dryer and never clued in. I had to replace primary heat exchanger for a crack. Just for the heck of it, I asked him how his gas bills were, he said large. I guess short cycling on limit is expensive.
I'm surprised that natural selection didn't get him. Seems as if modern gas fired equipment burns too clean.
drjfjr
02-06-2011, 07:12 PM
I am a controls engineer and it amazes me how many engineers have no common sense. Book sense yes but equipment and common sense no.
xboxman
02-07-2011, 10:57 AM
went back today and the fan was running but no heat but this time the rollout switchs had not tripped but i found no 24 VAC going to the gas valve .
now i am not a DIYer ( i am new to the heating repair bizz)( dont want you all to think it's just some home owner wanting to fix his unit himself ) but the guy i was helping is a heating cooling pro we just can't find the problem with this unit .... i am thinking it's a wiring problem when it runs a long time a bad connection opens ?? but so far i can't find anything
starting to think the customer needs a new unit
thanks
tipsrfine
02-07-2011, 11:09 AM
went back today and the fan was running but no heat but this time the rollout switchs had not tripped but i found no 24 VAC going to the gas valve .
now i am not a DIYer ( i am new to the heating repair bizz)( dont want you all to think it's just some home owner wanting to fix his unit himself ) but the guy i was helping is a heating cooling pro we just can't find the problem with this unit .... i am thinking it's a wiring problem when it runs a long time a bad connection opens ?? but so far i can't find anything
starting to think the customer needs a new unit
thanks
Get your post count up and apply for pro membership. You will have access to much more and be able to get detailed assistance & advice. This is a great place to increase your knowledge. People stop picking on you after a while. We just can't post too much here where the general public can read also.
big sky hvac
02-07-2011, 11:22 AM
If you're working on a furnace that has a standing pilot, it's probably time to replace that thing, IMO. It's inefficient, and not worth putting a whole lot of money into it. If the blower is running, but the burners aren't lit, had you considered that the fan/limit switch may be sticking closed? If your flame roll-outs are tripping, there is a reason for that. I would take a good, hard look at the heat exchanger before you spend anymore time troubleshooting this thing, you may be just spinning your wheels.
xboxman
02-07-2011, 11:37 AM
Get your post count up and apply for pro membership. You will have access to much more and be able to get detailed assistance & advice. This is a great place to increase your knowledge. People stop picking on you after a while. We just can't post too much here where the general public can read also.
i agree with you all that a DIYer should never try to work on heating/ cooling equipment it's just not safe at all if you dont know what you are doing
i dont mind if they pick on me or not it was kinda funny all this time and work and still the same problem
can we talk about solar air heaters here ???
xboxman
02-07-2011, 11:43 AM
If you're working on a furnace that has a standing pilot, it's probably time to replace that thing, IMO. It's inefficient, and not worth putting a whole lot of money into it. If the blower is running, but the burners aren't lit, had you considered that the fan/limit switch may be sticking closed? If your flame roll-outs are tripping, there is a reason for that. I would take a good, hard look at the heat exchanger before you spend anymore time troubleshooting this thing, you may be just spinning your wheels.
had you considered that the fan/limit switch may be sticking closed?
thats what i keep saying but no one seems to think they ever go bad ..
also ask the guy at the house about the last time he put in a new air filter he said about a month ago so i will check the air filter also
thanks
big sky hvac
02-07-2011, 01:11 PM
had you considered that the fan/limit switch may be sticking closed?
thats what i keep saying but no one seems to think they ever go bad ..
also ask the guy at the house about the last time he put in a new air filter he said about a month ago so i will check the air filter also
thanks
I'm not sure who keeps telling you that combination fan/limits don't ever go bad, because they do. I've replaced a lot of fan/limits because they stick closed, which keeps the blower running. I just tap next to the fan/limit with my nutdriver and that frees em up, temporarily. Another tip that I could give is don't ever take a homeowners word on what the filter looks like. That should be one of the things you always look at before you leave, regardless of what they think it looks like. You'd be surprised what their definition of "it's ok" is. I've seen filters get plugged in less than a month, under certain conditions. Hopefully you've measured the temp. rise of the furnace and checked to see what the gas manifold pressure is. If you're overfiring, that'll trip a roll-out switch too, along with dirty burners or a cracked heat exchanger.
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