View Full Version : Rate the install.
kcrossley
01-22-2005, 12:16 AM
This is part of a Trane XE800 that was installed in 1990. The outdoor unit has since failed and I'm currently replacing the whole system with a Trane XL14i setup. Since I'm ignorant when it comes to heat pumps and installing them, I was curious to find out if this was a good installation. Check out the photos here. Click on a photo to enlarge.
http://homepage.mac.com/kcrossley/PhotoAlbum26.html
By the way, it looks fine to me.
Thanks,
Kelly
Hey Kelly,
From a technical perspective, without putting on guages, meter an other measuring devices, I'd say you are on the right track. I, however, and a big fan of installing refrigeration lines with ACR hard drawn and fittings. (You'd never install a walk in freezer or Kitchen cooler with line sets) But for the most part... I don't see any code infractions. But also too... I'm a bit of a stickler for linear neatness... all lines... electrical, refrigeration, natural gas lines or whatever... HAS TO BE AS CLOSE TO PERFECT AS YOU CAN GET IT. It's not rocket science... I give my customer atleast an hour of my time on a day long installation for free, to make the lines perfect.
Then I can truely substantiate the additional cost in the quote. :D
Jeez Kelly, I'm being a lame-ass...
The work in the pics you sent are nice work! If you did this... good work. :)
simpleman
01-22-2005, 07:35 AM
Hey ricm..its ok to be a ass,when it helps to better us all.
Personally I'm used to being called a ass,I hear it from the wife all the time.
I say the duct coming off the discharge of the airhandler
should be rework with radius fitting and damper.
Also maybe two wrenches on the liquid line would help as
well.
But it easy to make comment or sound like a ass,when we dont
know how much the cost of the job was,nor the experience of
the installer.
-80guru
01-22-2005, 08:00 AM
I concur with the other gentlemen on your install. I would install a tee in place of the 1st elbow on the main drain. On top of the T I would place a 3" length of pvc pipe with a cap. Do not glue the lenght of pipe to the T. This would be for access to clean the trap. Pip the overflow drain line to a deep pan or plastic box beside the air handler. If the drain overflows it will drain into the pan instead of all over the floor. You can also put a float switch in the pan so when the pan begins to fill up it will shut off the unit. I did this at my dads house and it saved his ceiling three times already.
BaldLoonie
01-22-2005, 09:41 AM
I only see the old unit, that what you want us to comment on?
Bare romex coming into unit, bricks under return box, no collar on return at wall, lots of foil tape...
For the emergency drain, instead of overflow pans, put a fitting with a float switch to shut off system with backup.
kcrossley
01-22-2005, 03:29 PM
Originally posted by ricm
The work in the pics you sent are nice work! If you did this... good work. :)
I did not do the install. It was done by the builder's contractor 15 years ago. As I said previously, I don't know anything about this stuff, so I was just curious as to whether this was a good installation or not. The new system will go in next week.
Kelly
kcrossley
01-22-2005, 03:31 PM
Originally posted by -80guru
I concur with the other gentlemen on your install. I would install a tee in place of the 1st elbow on the main drain. On top of the T I would place a 3" length of pvc pipe with a cap. Do not glue the lenght of pipe to the T. This would be for access to clean the trap. Pip the overflow drain line to a deep pan or plastic box beside the air handler. If the drain overflows it will drain into the pan instead of all over the floor. You can also put a float switch in the pan so when the pan begins to fill up it will shut off the unit. I did this at my dads house and it saved his ceiling three times already.
You wouldn't happen to have a web site link to a picture or diagram that illustrates what you're referring to?
Kelly
mayguy
01-22-2005, 08:29 PM
Did they say why the outdoor unit failed?
it looks the dampers on both end of the supply duct are closed down half way.
kcrossley
01-22-2005, 09:50 PM
Originally posted by mayguy
Did they say why the outdoor unit failed? It looks the dampers on both end of the supply duct are closed down half way.
Compressor failed. Old age. HP is 15 years old. I think you may be referring to is the redirects. They can be adjusted to force air to the first or second floor. Currently they're set to force air mainly to the first floor. Heat rises you know.
Kelly
-80guru
01-23-2005, 01:17 AM
No I do not have a diagram or web site to refer to. It's pretty simple really. I will look into taking a picture and posting. It will be the first picture post I have done though and may take a little time.
kcrossley
01-28-2005, 10:03 PM
Originally posted by BaldLoonie
Bare romex coming into unit, bricks under return box, no collar on return at wall, lots of foil tape...
What do you normally use to support the return box?
chrisc
01-28-2005, 11:23 PM
Looks like a pretty nice install, except for the #2 sticker on the side of the unit, it should be changed to a #3, Rusty is all washed up!!!!
bigmanmikey
02-06-2005, 11:41 PM
Would of sealed all the s and drives with some duct sealant..just my .02 cents
kcrossley
02-07-2005, 12:14 AM
This installation has now been removed and replaced with a new system. There's no need to comment on it further, unless you get bored.
Kelly
billva
02-07-2005, 09:35 PM
i'm bored.
let's see pics of the new install. and it better be perfect.
billva
02-07-2005, 09:37 PM
and could you put it on a spring card frame? I'm sick of winter.
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