View Full Version : little hole for a/h
billygoat22
01-13-2005, 10:33 PM
Took out old unit, had to dismantle to get out and crush casing flat to get out little access door.
http://ww2.imagewiz.net/images/hvac1/181083_100_0006.JPG
We had to dismantle new unit and give it the same treatment to get it in the attic- then reassemble in a spot 30" wide by 4' long, and slide straight back into this hole.
http://ww2.imagewiz.net/images/hvac1/181084_100_0004.JPG
bluetooth751
01-14-2005, 08:33 PM
Thats exactly how we would run our drain lines. Now we trap the emergency drain and fill with mineral oil. Mineral oil will not evaporate. Helps keep that "airtight" airhandler exactly what it should be air tight.
cde72
01-14-2005, 09:05 PM
Minerial Oil... Thats an awesome idea...
adamc
01-14-2005, 09:08 PM
Originally posted by bluetooth751
Thats exactly how we would run our drain lines. Now we trap the emergency drain and fill with mineral oil. Mineral oil will not evaporate. Helps keep that "airtight" airhandler exactly what it should be air tight.
were is the rest of the e z trap
how is the float switch gonna protecet property
and is that a negative preesure system?
billygoat22
01-14-2005, 09:49 PM
Its all there, doesn't show up in shadow behind emerg line.
The trap shuts off power if the water level in outlet reaches the float in the cross tee. I glue in the black piece because it must be there for trap to work (someone might pull it out and lose it). The pan is higher than the float so water won't overflow pan before switch goes off.
It is a negative pressure system
Stamas
01-17-2005, 09:23 AM
Maybe it's hidden but it sure looks like it's just got two 2X's holding it up.
The complete disassembly is a chore.
spooley
01-17-2005, 06:34 PM
I prefer a metal/ soldered corner drain pan which would be hung with allthread and strut. Then place two treated boards laterally in the pan with four isolation pads( one on each board end), then finally the unit. There are also some other good install techniques: uses of heavy jack instead of althread, use of angle over strut, etc. I do like the use of the easy traps, nice touch, i prefer them as well!
Just some advice that may help on your next suspended install!
billygoat22
01-17-2005, 09:27 PM
This was an exact changeout, use all old stuff, so we didn't redo pan or hangers.
Much to my great annoyance, as I strapped up the flex on unit to keep it from kinking at plenum (very last thing to do) the 2x4 cracked that holds up the unit. So I had to go and get stuff back off truck to fix the 2x4.
Stamas
01-18-2005, 05:23 PM
Is a piece of Kindorf and some fender washers that expensive?
pmccune
01-19-2005, 09:43 PM
Please explain the mineral oil.
amickracing
01-19-2005, 11:13 PM
Originally posted by pmccune
Please explain the mineral oil.
If a trap is allowed to dry out, when the unit starts for the 1st time, it can pull enough air though the condensate tube to prevent any water from draining out of the pan. Also it can suck in some nasty smells from the drains aswell.
I don't think this happens often, but one time of a drain pan over flowing or filling the house up with stink is one too many I'd say.
If you put mineral oil in the trap, it won't evaporate like water, so it'll stay in the trap and prevent any air from flowing through the pipe. But if something unfortunate happens and the emergency drain has to drain some water, it'll just flow through the trap pushing the mineral oil out.
This mineral oil idea is also good for floor drains that never see water, or maybe an old drain like for a washer. My basement used to have the laundry room in it (floor drain and washer drain). Now they are moved up stairs (before we bought the house). After living here for a month or 2 we'd get a sewer gas smell occasionally. After searching way too long (should have known the answer), it dawned on me, so I filled my floor drain with mineral oil and capped off the PVC drain for the washer.
Also, if you have an additional home (cabin or summer home,etc) that is left for months and months, it wouldn't be a bad idea to do this trick with your drains before you close the house up while you're away.
pmccune
01-20-2005, 08:35 AM
That explains it I had never heard of that will give it a try. Thanks for the help.
billygoat22
01-22-2005, 02:55 PM
Not a bad idea for winterizing houses, won't freeze and is nontoxic.
Wouldn't mineral oil leave a stain or mark on house? Many emergency drains here come out soffit and water/oil could splash on siding,brick, or worse yet, on a deck.
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