Thermostatic Radiator Valve - Help

[temco]

Looking for help with Honeywell thermostatic rad. valve V110D valve body with T104B remote bulb thermostat. This is for a 3 story barracks with 184 wall mount radiators with hot water, not steam. We have replaced 18 valves so far and they are all leaking and closing off 100%. Existing valves were Taco 5221 with remote stats. Had my balance contractor there today to help troubleshoot. The Honeywell valve is rated at 17psi differential. We have circuit setters at each unit set at 30% and have a 2psi differential. system inlet press to valve is 54psi, system outlet pressure is 52psi.
We have spoke with tech support and commercial sales reps for Honeywell, they are supposed to be finding someone who can help with these valves. No help so far. We are within the rated differential so Im looking for them to answer if the 54psi inlet press. is a problem. If so what is max inlet pressure they can work at ?
What I notice with the Honeywell compared to the Taco is that inside the valve actuator the expanding bulb that closes down on the valve cartridge and seat also has a spring above the expanding bulb and this spring gives way just before the valve closes off completely. The Taco does not have this spring inside top of actuator. No one at Honeywell knows what spring is for.
Any help or contact info for someone who might be able to help would be very appreciated.
Thank You.

[krptonicx07]

Ive pretty much had the same experience as you with those honeywell valves. My problems were on a steam system. There was to much steam pressure due to a faulty PRV serving one of the buildings. It sounds like you have too much pressure wich is causing premature failure. The cost of replacing the valves and valve bodies on the 1000 valves we have made me go with a cheap manual radiator valve that can be bought at home depot. Its not as nice as honeywells but it serves the purpose and is about 10 bux for a complete valve and i find them to last much longer.