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View Full Version : Ranco ETC 111-000 Is Great!



JBM1000
10-16-2010, 12:25 PM
Have use it twice now and it has been just the bomb to replace old J/Control type temp stats. Plus one can use for a fan cycle due to the temp control scale and selections for cool or heat etc.


132041

Dchappa21
10-16-2010, 02:14 PM
Been using the A419 JC http://www.johnsoncontrols.com/publish/us/en/products/building_efficiency/Commercial_and_Industrial_Refrigeration/commercial_refrigeration/temperature/electronic2/a419singlestage.html

They are a little easier to fit under case's then the Ranco.

But both are a huge improvement over the old t-stats...

icemeister
10-16-2010, 02:17 PM
I've been using them for a long time with excellent results.

With the quality of most mechanical controls getting worse every year, these still seem to be holding up well.

The cost is quite reasonable too. :)

hvac wiz 79
10-16-2010, 02:30 PM
yea they def are good. very reasonable pricing also

badbillr
10-16-2010, 03:06 PM
Not only reasonable in cost and easy to install/setup, but it also makes the equipment look more modern & sophisticated!

jpsmith1cm
10-16-2010, 03:57 PM
I'll be the lone voice of dissent.

The ETC-111000 is a decent control. Accurate, easy to install and setup. I'll give you guys that, BUT.....

Where is the rest of the stuff I need to run a refer system? Time delays? None. Defrost control? Sorry. Alarming? Nope.

In short, it works, it's nice, but it's incomplete, IMO.

crackertech
10-16-2010, 04:17 PM
:ditto:I agree with jp.

icemeister
10-16-2010, 04:48 PM
I'll be the lone voice of dissent.

The ETC-111000 is a decent control. Accurate, easy to install and setup. I'll give you guys that, BUT.....

Where is the rest of the stuff I need to run a refer system? Time delays? None. Defrost control? Sorry. Alarming? Nope.

In short, it works, it's nice, but it's incomplete, IMO.

There's no question if you need something to run the whole show you'll need more than just a thermostat. The ETC is after all, just a thermostat.

For the whole works, I have used the Paragon/Ranco/Invensys ERC2 controller a number of times, again with very good results.

http://www.uni-line.com/modules/catalog/Product.aspx?singlePart=false&prodID=65500

It does temperature control (with dry contact hi/low alarm output), defrost control (electric or HG with time/temperature with drip times or straight time/time) and minimum on/off run times.

For a cost not much more than an 8145-20 timeclock alone, it's a pretty good deal.

Dowadudda
10-16-2010, 06:08 PM
I just put an emersen 16E09-101 Electronic Stat on my truck.

24v/115v/208 which covers everything. Also. No nuetral needed. So let's say your replacing a 1609. No need to run new wire. I have not used it yet, but when I stocked my truck I put this on as stock so it can cover any app.

icemeister
10-16-2010, 06:39 PM
I just put an emersen 16E09-101 Electronic Stat on my truck.

24v/115v/208 which covers everything. Also. No nuetral needed. So let's say your replacing a 1609. No need to run new wire. I have not used it yet, but when I stocked my truck I put this on as stock so it can cover any app.

I've read about that one, but haven't tried it yet. It has an alarm out put and apparently has programmable time delays. Cool.

The one thing I see as something to watch out for is the power stealing aspect...which is what allows you to get away with no third conductor. The installation instructions state the load on the thermostat must be greater than 2.5 amps or you must run that third conductor.

http://www.emersonclimate.com/Documents/White-Rodgers/instruction_sheets/0037-6857.pdf

Hopefully, this info may save you one of those "Oh Crap!" moments. ;)

Dowadudda
10-16-2010, 06:44 PM
I've read about that one, but haven't tried it yet. It has an alarm out put and apparently has programmable time delays. Cool.

The one thing I see as something to watch out for is the power stealing aspect...which is what allows you to get away with no third conductor. The installation instructions state the load on the thermostat must be greater than 2.5 amps or you must run that third conductor.

http://www.emersonclimate.com/Documents/White-Rodgers/instruction_sheets/0037-6857.pdf

Hopefully, this info may save you one of those "Oh Crap!" moments. ;)

sharp fella. I was not aware of that, I have yet to take it out of the box and take a look at it. This would really not be great then for if your just doing a solenoid.

derek989
10-16-2010, 06:55 PM
used the control also and like it good and also like the 2 stage version and also if in a damp location i use the nema 4 enclosed one thats my 2 cents for the day lol

itsiceman
10-16-2010, 07:49 PM
A lot more options on the Emerson and also a backlight that can be left on (very nice)

I like them both but the Ranco seems to be the toughest IMO

CoolWine
10-16-2010, 08:33 PM
I've been using the WR 16E09-101 and have been quite happy with it.

It displays both sensor and setting temp. which the customers like to see. It has an alarm relay, software based lockout for adjustment as well as short cycle delay and even an offset.

Try one I'm sure you'll forget that Ranco in short order.

jpsmith1cm
10-16-2010, 08:40 PM
There's no question if you need something to run the whole show you'll need more than just a thermostat. The ETC is after all, just a thermostat.

For the whole works, I have used the Paragon/Ranco/Invensys ERC2 controller a number of times, again with very good results.

http://www.uni-line.com/modules/catalog/Product.aspx?singlePart=false&prodID=65500

It does temperature control (with dry contact hi/low alarm output), defrost control (electric or HG with time/temperature with drip times or straight time/time) and minimum on/off run times.

For a cost not much more than an 8145-20 timeclock alone, it's a pretty good deal.

I've seen and used the ERC2 controllers, too.


I guess that my biggest grouch is that we can build a controller box that will run a whole GD building, but not a single, SIMPLE controller to run a simple conventional refrigeration unit.

Something that can be easily interrogated by a customer if necessary, easily programmed by a tech OR a customer and control every aspect of unit operation. Low/High pressure controls, defrost control, temp control via LLSV, plus give alarming capabilities. It would be a bonus if this controller would integrate with the various building controllers available.

A controller like this is NOT beyond the capabilities of the various manufacturers, so why isn't it being offered?

oldfart
10-17-2010, 03:14 PM
They need to make one that you can turn the display so you can use it in horizontal or vertical, or make a horizontal model. Sometimes they just won't fit where you want them
Oldfart

Dowadudda
10-18-2010, 07:24 AM
I've seen and used the ERC2 controllers, too.


I guess that my biggest grouch is that we can build a controller box that will run a whole GD building, but not a single, SIMPLE controller to run a simple conventional refrigeration unit.

Something that can be easily interrogated by a customer if necessary, easily programmed by a tech OR a customer and control every aspect of unit operation. Low/High pressure controls, defrost control, temp control via LLSV, plus give alarming capabilities. It would be a bonus if this controller would integrate with the various building controllers available.

A controller like this is NOT beyond the capabilities of the various manufacturers, so why isn't it being offered?

if you have a few singles, like some older stores here do, you can do the CUB boards and an e2.

jpsmith1cm
10-18-2010, 08:45 AM
if you have a few singles, like some older stores here do, you can do the CUB boards and an e2.

Not familiar with the CUB board.

Will it stand alone or is the E2 required?

Am thinking a stand-alone control with networking as a bonus and maybe as a selling point further down the road.

icemeister
10-18-2010, 09:27 AM
This little gem from Dixell looks like it might fit the bill for a simple stand-alone controller with communicating capabilities:

http://www.dixell.com/linea58/download/XR70CX_RTC_GB.pdf

They apparently make a similar one for A/C.

icemeister
10-18-2010, 11:44 AM
They need to make one that you can turn the display so you can use it in horizontal or vertical, or make a horizontal model. Sometimes they just won't fit where you want them
Oldfart

The ERC2 has a remote display model which will do that.

I installed a couple of them in a kitchen with the main control on top of the box and the display and programming module mounted just above the door, angled down a bit so it's easy to read.

Dowadudda
10-18-2010, 05:27 PM
Not familiar with the CUB board.

Will it stand alone or is the E2 required?

Am thinking a stand-alone control with networking as a bonus and maybe as a selling point further down the road.

it will stand alone, and if not hooked up to an e2, you need the handheld.

jdwendling
10-18-2010, 07:33 PM
Back to the Ranco ETC Why didn't they make the lead wires to the display a little longer so you could mount the base with the knock-out hole on the top and rotate the cover/ display to the correct position???? Conduits always come down form the top of Walk in coolers not the bottom. I like the control but if you don't run the 3rd wire and let the defrost timer drop the power to the control (it will retain its program) it seems to only last a year or two.

jdwendling
10-18-2010, 07:41 PM
The Emerson doesn't have the separate relay terninals like the Ranco. You need to deternine which leg you are switching , if you are replacing a Ranco ETC.that was wired as a contact and power was supplied to the control only. I'm like Dow the advertising lead me to stock one on the truck . now I need a ranco ETC also.

itsiceman
10-18-2010, 07:53 PM
Back to the Ranco ETC Why didn't they make the lead wires to the display a little longer so you could mount the base with the knock-out hole on the top and rotate the cover/ display to the correct position???? Conduits always come down form the top of Walk in coolers not the bottom. I like the control but if you don't run the 3rd wire and let the defrost timer drop the power to the control (it will retain its program) it seems to only last a year or two.
I typically see them wired from the bottom or back because a top fed is just asking for moisture problems inside a refrigerated space electronic or mechanical.