View Full Version : my new 'toys'
justpostin
11-15-2004, 11:05 AM
I'm just a homeowner, and this was professionally installed last week by a local HVAC company (the old furnace was 32 years old and dying fast). A new hot water heater and Aprilaire Model 600 humidifier are new too. A new A/C was installed too, but it was too cold to go outside and take a picture (American Standard, 11 SEER, FYI)
http://ww2.imagewiz.net/images/hvac/156555_New_Furnace__1___Large_.jpg
http://ww2.imagewiz.net/images/hvac/156556_New_Furnace__2___Large_.jpg
http://ww2.imagewiz.net/images/hvac/156557_New_Furnace__3___Large_.jpg
http://ww2.imagewiz.net/images/hvac/156558_New_Furnace__Large_.jpg
Jultzya
11-15-2004, 12:36 PM
What's up with the intake piping?
Did they need to get rid of some fittings? :D
All that room on the outside of the return for the humidifier, and they squeeze it inbetween! :(
mayguy
11-15-2004, 10:24 PM
Yeah, I am wondering what's up with the intake pipe?
Should be fun changing out the pad on the Humid next year.
Able to get at the A-Coil from the back side?
What's the BTU and Ton is this sytem? Sure is a big coil box!
Couldn't the plumber run hard copper to the water heater? Kinda messy glue on the water heater PVC (yellow?)
What's the thick black hose? cord? from the return drop, going though the furnace, and up on the left side?
And water heater using the same power from the furnace?
beenthere
11-15-2004, 10:32 PM
Its an ok install
i would prefer to see the humidifier easier to get to.
Although I could be wrong due to manufatures specs... but I'm of the impression the installer should have continued the vent pipe in 3" if it starts out in 3" rather than reducing it.
Although most power vented HWT's I've installed, began in 2" as factory.
If I was doing this install (Change - 0ut) I'd, have invested a bit more time, tidying things up. Lines, cords, etc.
Although your installers didn't seem to do you injustice at all, a bit of attention to detail, like service access to the humidifier, A/C coil etc.
BTW - How cold WAS it to be 'too cold' to take picures outside? My digital seems to work fine in the -40 weather, just keep in in the Parka until you want to snap the pic. :D
magicrookie
11-16-2004, 11:00 PM
The humidifier and the humidisat are both in the return? That wasn't the way I was taught.
Spidy
11-16-2004, 11:19 PM
Originally posted by magicrookie
The humidifier and the humidisat are both in the return? That wasn't the way I was taught.
As long as the stat is like 12" upstream from the humi. it is fine.
Jultzya
11-16-2004, 11:20 PM
Originally posted by magicrookie
The humidifier and the humidisat are both in the return? That wasn't the way I was taught.
There's nothing wrong with that, just the location of the humidifier for future service.
magicrookie
11-16-2004, 11:39 PM
thanks spidy...I was always told one goes in the supply and one goes in the return
buts its nice to know that for the future :)
HeyBob
11-17-2004, 09:36 AM
The humidifier drain line is going to plug up and leak on the air cleaner. It should be 3/4 PVC.
mark beiser
11-17-2004, 09:44 AM
nevermind...
[Edited by mark beiser on 11-17-2004 at 10:00 AM]
troyboy951
11-18-2004, 08:01 PM
Originally posted by mayguy
Yeah, I am wondering what's up with the intake pipe?
the power is from an outlet where 110from power venter & 110 blower motorshould be able to handle it
Should be fun changing out the pad on the Humid next year.
Able to get at the A-Coil from the back side?
What's the BTU and Ton is this sytem? Sure is a big coil box!
Couldn't the plumber run hard copper to the water heater? Kinda messy glue on the water heater PVC (yellow?)
What's the thick black hose? cord? from the return drop, going though the furnace, and up on the left side?
And water heater using the same power from the furnace?
troyboy951
11-18-2004, 08:04 PM
the power is from an outlet where 110from power venter & 110 blower motorshould be able to handle it
the water heatetr should be on a bad 2x2 to prevent the legs from cancer
sayco bob
02-04-2005, 06:37 PM
I like the way they reduced the return duct before making a sharp 90 deg turn with no throat before entering the air cleaner. I suppose they did this to increase the velocity and so the lower half of the filter gets all the air flow.
echomech
02-05-2005, 12:12 PM
Where is this type of junk allowed PVC on exhuast and what are the water connections on the water heater for a Stove.and the electrical wires OMG . I work in NYC and you do work like that and you are history. printing this one for shop laughs.
Echomech... PVC is allowed in conformance with the manufacturer's specifications. Of course if your State will not allow, then you must install in accordance with the local codes.
Although it wasn't necessary in this application in regards to the flexible copper connections, as the existing water lines are copper. However, these flex connectors were initially intended for use if the water lines are Pex pipe or equivelant. In particular if the water heater is vented with single wall chimney to a common B vent. The flex lines allowed the installer to maintain a predetermined distance between the chimney and the Pex.
But I'm probably telling you things you already know...
This wasn't an overly horrible install... however, tidying up the electrical should be considered.
BaldLoonie
02-06-2005, 08:56 AM
Is Imagewiz acting up? I couldn't see the pictures last night or this morning? :(
AllTemp
02-06-2005, 10:18 PM
Originally posted by BaldLoonie
Is Imagewiz acting up? I couldn't see the pictures last night or this morning? :(
Guess it's hacked or something or the subscription expired, dunno...
Thats why I especially like uploading to my own server :-)
http://www.alltemp-hvac.com/impress.gif
sir fix alot
02-14-2005, 08:43 PM
average at best..not bad
noitall
02-15-2005, 01:18 AM
Originally posted by jultzya
What's up with the intake piping?
Did they need to get rid of some fittings? :D
All that room on the outside of the return for the humidifier, and they squeeze it inbetween! :(
But where would the latter go? HAHAHAHA
[Edited by noitall on 02-15-2005 at 01:20 AM]
hvac-phillysytle
02-16-2005, 07:02 PM
a word of advice take a look at the pics and see what you can do better . lot of problems there ! however pride in your will make you want to do better every time
willy1
02-26-2005, 01:10 AM
looks like return to small hope its not 5 ton looks like 4 at least,pull from bottom or both sides for 5 ton to get proper cfm
cool-blew
03-03-2005, 06:34 PM
Yeah that return looks way too small, go to radio shack and buy a thing called "Kill-A-Watt" plug the furnace into it with the heat on high, check watts, or amps then remove filter, and with door off and furnace still on high, check watts and amps.
ripxrush
04-03-2005, 05:40 PM
OKay, 3 things!
1st - The Hum. Well it is on ethat mounts on tthe return & has a 6" pipe coming off of the supply, my guess is that theye could not fit the 6" behind the Return.
2nd - THe PVC for furnace it looks as if with the big sweep 90degree ells theye used that theye couyld not fit the pvc together without all those fittings.
3rd - We put in 30" or so coils Theye are ADP coils used mostly for PG&E Rebates they gain 1/2 a seer rating or so i bealive.
berad
04-11-2005, 09:59 PM
Originally posted by ricm
Although I could be wrong due to manufatures specs... but I'm of the impression the installer should have continued the vent pipe in 3" if it starts out in 3" rather than reducing it.
Although most power vented HWT's I've installed, began in 2" as factory.
If I was doing this install (Change - 0ut) I'd, have invested a bit more time, tidying things up. Lines, cords, etc.
Although your installers didn't seem to do you injustice at all, a bit of attention to detail, like service access to the humidifier, A/C coil etc.
BTW - How cold WAS it to be 'too cold' to take picures outside? My digital seems to work fine in the -40 weather, just keep in in the Parka until you want to snap the pic. :D
The water heater is fine, My former employer dealed in AO Smith, we had some trouble with pressure switches on some, the factory came out and told us to run it in 3" the nreduce to 2" it the last 5 feet. It worked! No more pressure switch problems so it became standard practice.
Good to know.... I'll keep that in mind if I encounter pressure switch faults.... Thanks for the tip.
hvacpope
04-13-2005, 12:04 PM
Originally posted by echomech
Where is this type of junk allowed PVC on exhuast and what are the water connections on the water heater for a Stove.and the electrical wires OMG . I work in NYC and you do work like that and you are history. printing this one for shop laughs.
The use of pvc for venting has been code for all 90+ units for a long time, Here in NYC.
corby7
04-24-2005, 09:05 PM
I will always make sure of neatness when it comes to piping and electric and so forth.The customer can only see with there eyes what you have done they do not know the theory or anything else.I clean everything and zip tie wires and all.Its professional and will get you more work then you can handle.Cause the customer will tell there friends"what a neat job and clean work"They won't be saying "I love the way the guy set the "A" coil in".Just my thoughts.
oil lp man
04-24-2005, 09:44 PM
Those copper connectors on the water heater are for hard to get at retrofit forced hot water baseboard jobs. Like when the basement ceiling on an old house doesn't line up with the first floor and you have to offset the pipe without having to use 10 elbows.
The flex pipe is thin wall like "M" pipe. "M" pipe is spec for hydronic pipe which is usually pressured to 10 -20 pounds on residential.
Domestic hot water can be as high as 150 psi. Especially without a domestic expansion tank(which I don't see).
The copper pipe should be all "L" pipe (which is thicker than "M"), or equivalent. This is national plumbing code.
Unfortunately I see it occasionally because its faster, but wrong.
thomasomally62
05-05-2005, 09:51 PM
I think you did an ok job with what you had to work with. I do think a little more time spent on detail would be a great asset to your company and the looks of your installations.
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