Uv light leak detector

[shaka]

Can someone give me an input on the UV light leak detector? I got a leak on a 3 door frezzer that is driving me nuts. Are they any good? Do they work good on all type of system? They have several on the market right now. Range from $100-600 Any brand you like and Why? Thank you in advance for your input.

[Dad]

Originally posted by shaka
Can someone give me an input on the UV light leak detector? I got a leak on a 3 door frezzer that is driving me nuts. Are they any good? Do they work good on all type of system? They have several on the market right now. Range from $100-600 Any brand you like and Why? Thank you in advance for your input.

shaka,

I purchased the Spectronics Titan with all the accessories about a year ago. Spectronics are the best you can buy! You can find them in the Jmart book TLK-100 (H85-359)

It is nice. Re-chargeable battery pack powered unit on your belt, plenty of glow sticks and cleaner. I have the EZ-JECT dye injection system to go with it. There is one glow stick that works with all type of refrigerant oils too!
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I will sell it to you dirt cheap!

It has never located a leak that I couldn't find with soap bubbles first. Grrrrrrrr

Hope this helps :D

[R12rules]

512.775.0761, call me and give me the price you want! I'll buy it.

[R12rules]

Originally posted by shaka
Can someone give me an input on the UV light leak detector?

use the search feature of this site to find the threads which talk about UV leak detection.

[icemeister]

Here's a thread that started off talking about Dytel leak detection dye but went on to the UV stuff: http://hvac-talk.com/vbb/showthread.php?threadid=62991

I think I have the same big black box that condenseddave has, but as I recall I paid about $400 for it 5+ years ago. :(

I use it every day.





















It's propping up one corner of a table in the shop. ;)

I could sell it, but I'd have to go out and buy a new table leg.

[Edited by icemeister on 11-03-2004 at 05:42 PM]

[R12rules]

Originally posted by icemeister
Here's a thread that started off talking about Dytel leak detection dye but went on to the UV stuff: http://hvac-talk.com/vbb/showthread.php?threadid=62991

I think I have the same big black box that condenseddave has, but as I recall I paid about $400 for it 5+ years ago. :(

I use it every day.

It's propping up one corner of a table in the shop. ;)

I could sell it, but I'd have to go out and buy a new table leg.

[Edited by icemeister on 11-03-2004 at 05:42 PM]


Ha ha ... very funny!

NOT!!!


For some, UV is like gold! For others... it just does not apply to the way they do their work.

Or in the case of huge systems containing humungous amounts of freon ... it's just not cost affective.


(very funny .... "table leg" ..... yeh right!)

[Dad]

Opppps


Did anyone see what I saw?





The price of my Spectronics Titan just went up!

How much did ya say you would give for it R-12??? :D

[icemeister]

Originally posted by R12rules
For some, UV is like gold! For others... it just does not apply to the way they do their work.



It just didn't do what I expected it to do. I'm sorry if I offended you Bob, because that was not my intention at all......just jesting is all. ;)

Actually, I stole the table leg line from Dave.

[a\c don]

I also am not impressed by UV light leak detectors.

My boss has the large Rigid brand floodlight and I have an Inova brand battery powered LED UV light with the amber uvs-40 rated goggles that are supposed to enhence the flouresence of the dye.

To date it has found 2 of the last 20 or so leak checks I've done recently.

I've let the Arglo dye circulate as long as 2 weeks, darkened my search areas as much as possible but most of the leaks were found using my Inficon Tek-Mate leak detector and Big Blue.

[hospitalacguy]

I agree with A/C don. I've never had luck with the UV leak detectors. Good electronic leak detector and a bottle of Blue goes a long way.

[R12rules]

Some guys are qualified to use a hood to test airflow .. and some ain't!

Some are quallified to use specialty stuff ... and others just dont click with it.

I love tools. So I go out of my way to try new stuff. If it works for me ... I tell other people about my personal experience.
If it dont work out for them ... it's not the end of the world.

I know Dave dont care for Spectronics UV dye.
That's alright! Dave's kind of a cut above the average guy out there whose trying to make a living doing this trade ...THE RIGHT WAY!

For him ... it dont work.
For me ... it works.
If he worked for me, he wouldnt use it and nobody would be fool enough to press the matter.
And if I worked for him ... I'd simply do what I was told. And if he didnt say nuthin' .... I'd go ahead and use the stuff whenever I felt it was warranted.
But it would never be more than just a fun thing to ocassionally jest about.
Kind of like how everyone here makes fun of Dice for his selection of a maskot.

[a\c don]

Originally posted by R12rules
Some guys are qualified to use a hood to test airflow .. and some ain't!

Some are quallified to use specialty stuff ... and others just dont click with it.

I love tools. So I go out of my way to try new stuff. If it works for me ... I tell other people about my personal experience.
If it dont work out for them ... it's not the end of the world.

I know Dave dont care for Spectronics UV dye.
That's alright! Dave's kind of a cut above the average guy out there whose trying to make a living doing this trade ...THE RIGHT WAY!

For him ... it dont work.
For me ... it works.
If he worked for me, he wouldnt use it and nobody would be fool enough to press the matter.
And if I worked for him ... I'd simply do what I was told. And if he didnt say nuthin' .... I'd go ahead and use the stuff whenever I felt it was warranted.
But it would never be more than just a fun thing to ocassionally jest about.
Kind of like how everyone here makes fun of Dice for his selection of a maskot.



R12, I would really like to know how you make this leak detection system work for you.

I have tried all of the recommended methods for using UV but have had limited success.

Any tips that you would be willing to share would be greatly appreciated.

[R12rules]

Here's what I've learned works;

I first exhaust the primary methods of leak detection. If I do not locate the leak, then I inject Spectronics into the system.
Then I schedule a return trip. I scan the system with the lights out.
If the system is partially on the roof, I do one of two things.
A) I return when it's dark. or
B) I throw a dark tarp over the RTU.

Unless you use the light where it's dark, there will be no contrast with the UV dye. Greater the contrast, the better the UV dye will show up. No contrast, no se the UV... It's simple.


In my book, the UV dye is a method of "CYA".
A lot of guys go out to locate a leak and find little or nothing. So they make up a story and hit the road.
This is typical SOP.
Dont make it right, just tellin' it like it sometimes is.
Sad but true.


If the tech who does this ... if they inject Spectronics before leaving the job ... should they have to return, the dye will be their tattle tale telling them exactely where the leaks are located! (and believe me, they WILL have to return).


Showing up to scan an RTU at five AM isnt fun. And hanging around town just so you can be there to return after sunset to scan a unit on a multi-story building .... that definately puts a kink in anybody's work schedule!

But sometimes that's exactely what it takes to get the job done.



Ultra sonic leak detection is a fantastic method using technology to help find leaks.
Modern electronic freon sniffers are great for their correct chemistry of blended freon.

But a halide leak detector still works on 22.
Bubbles work pretty much anywhere except for really hot surfaces and really cold surfaces.
But Spectronics works in just about every situation.

The only place I admit it is not the best choice is where you have a tremendous amount of charge. Like in rack systems in a market or meat plant. 100# of charge is where I now draw the line.

Admittedly, "Condensate-Dave" helped me to arrive at this compromise.

I have sniffers.
I love the ultra sonic devices.
I have several brands of bubbles.
And the Spectronics UV dye is great when all others seem to fail.
I'll leave the halide to those who never threw theirs away in the 70's.


Oh ... and I always begin by looking for the oil slick....:)

This is what works for me.

[shaka]

Thanks guys now Im really confuse. I charge that frezzer about 2 weeks ago. They haven't called back yet. Ohh maybe they figured out I cant fix that darn thing. Oh well you cant win it all.

[condenseddave]

Originally posted by icemeister
Here's a thread that started off talking about Dytel leak detection dye but went on to the UV stuff: http://hvac-talk.com/vbb/showthread.php?threadid=62991

I think I have the same big black box that condenseddave has, but as I recall I paid about $400 for it 5+ years ago. :(

I use it every day.





















It's propping up one corner of a table in the shop. ;)

I could sell it, but I'd have to go out and buy a new table leg.

[Edited by icemeister on 11-03-2004 at 05:42 PM]

I'll have to try that, that way it'd get used for SOMETHING.

[condenseddave]

Seriously, I'm the prison ***** for anyone that manufactures leak detectors. I'll buy ANYTHING. (And, I think I have...)

Fact is, though, the H10G is in a class by itself as far as leak detection goes. There is none better.

[condenseddave]

Originally posted by icemeister

Originally posted by R12rules
For some, UV is like gold! For others... it just does not apply to the way they do their work.



It just didn't do what I expected it to do. I'm sorry if I offended you Bob, because that was not my intention at all......just jesting is all. ;)

Actually, I stole the table leg line from Dave.

Well, I've been using the Doolins book for that.:p

But I DO need a wheel chock for my truck...

[condenseddave]

Originally posted by R12rules
Here's what I've learned works;

I first exhaust the primary methods of leak detection. If I do not locate the leak, then I inject Spectronics into the system.
Then I schedule a return trip. I scan the system with the lights out.
If the system is partially on the roof, I do one of two things.
A) I return when it's dark. or
B) I throw a dark tarp over the RTU.

Unless you use the light where it's dark, there will be no contrast with the UV dye. Greater the contrast, the better the UV dye will show up. No contrast, no se the UV... It's simple.


In my book, the UV dye is a method of "CYA".
A lot of guys go out to locate a leak and find little or nothing. So they make up a story and hit the road.
This is typical SOP.
Dont make it right, just tellin' it like it sometimes is.
Sad but true.


If the tech who does this ... if they inject Spectronics before leaving the job ... should they have to return, the dye will be their tattle tale telling them exactely where the leaks are located! (and believe me, they WILL have to return).


Showing up to scan an RTU at five AM isnt fun. And hanging around town just so you can be there to return after sunset to scan a unit on a multi-story building .... that definately puts a kink in anybody's work schedule!

But sometimes that's exactely what it takes to get the job done.



Ultra sonic leak detection is a fantastic method using technology to help find leaks.
Modern electronic freon sniffers are great for their correct chemistry of blended freon.

But a halide leak detector still works on 22.
Bubbles work pretty much anywhere except for really hot surfaces and really cold surfaces.
But Spectronics works in just about every situation.

The only place I admit it is not the best choice is where you have a tremendous amount of charge. Like in rack systems in a market or meat plant. 100# of charge is where I now draw the line.

Admittedly, "Condensate-Dave" helped me to arrive at this compromise.

I have sniffers.
I love the ultra sonic devices.
I have several brands of bubbles.
And the Spectronics UV dye is great when all others seem to fail.
I'll leave the halide to those who never threw theirs away in the 70's.


Oh ... and I always begin by looking for the oil slick....:)

This is what works for me.






Do you have an H10G?

[R12rules]

Dave, I dont curently have an H10G.

At one time I did have the battery one. It was not reliable. It went off on dust ....
Perhaps it wasnt calibrated right. It may have been my fault.

I have used the H10 and they are great. Just dont like cords is all.


I hear tell the latest H10 battery unit is better than ever though.
I may invest in that one.


(wheel chock) .... (indeed)

[condenseddave]

Get a 120V H10G BEFORE you go buying one of those dangerous-UV-Producing-lights-of-blindness.:p

Buy lots of cord, and get used to it. You might find that your desire to purchase a cornea-decimator is greatly reduced.

[R12rules]

Originally posted by condenseddave
Get a 120V H10G BEFORE you go buying one of those dangerous-UV-Producing-lights-of-blindness.:p

Buy lots of cord, and get used to it.

So why havent you investigated the new model cordless?

After reading how you describe yourself about buying every new invention ...I just thought this would be the next natural progression....:D

[condenseddave]

I HAVE one. It's bracing the door between the cab and box open to help put some heat back there, without freezing me out.

Did I appropriately and concisely answer your question?:D

NOTHING. And I mean NOTHING beats the 120VAC H10G. The battery operated units have one major flaw, they are battery operated. The leak detectors only work properly in the top 20% of their battery charge. After that, if you can find a small to medium sized leak of an HFC with it, it was an accident. Trust me. I've been down this highway. More than once.:rolleyes:

Yes, the sensors are essentially the same, BUT, without the required voltage they are useless. The "new" H10's with batteries don't hold up enough for me. They might work fine for someone doing residential, who won't use it for ten hours a week, or even two hours a week, but in commercial, they don't cut the mustard.

Last week I bought a new "Tekmate" (D cell) as a backup. It's a very nice, affordable little leak detector, that uses the Dtek sensor. It's very nice for about 20 minutes, then you get to change the "D" cells. If you wait for the battery light on ANY of them to come on, you've missed leaks. Maybe a LOT of leaks.

[R12rules]

Well Dave, you have not only answered my question .... but you have also opened up Pandora's Box, so to speak.


With all of the money they demand for top of the line lead detectors today ... wouldnt you think they would have corrected that issue which you just pointed out?


You know as well as I, there is circuitry available today which will provide constant level voltage ... I think they call it; "regulated power" ... irregardless of the battery level.
Once the battery's drop below a certain threshhold, the unit stops working. Period.
Simple.


In conclusion ... my next toy will be the H10G, 120volt leak detector.

[rayr]

Maybe, just maybe the H-10G is the best on the market because it was the first electronic leak detector on the market by GE. And they had enough money to make it right. I bought my first one in 1964. The only got better with time.

[Nevada]

My 12V SpectroLine Model FLK-100 has been great. The only leak that I didn't find was on the back of the evap coil that was not within sight even with a mirror. After pulling the coil it showed up clearly.

[condenseddave]

Originally posted by R12rules

You know as well as I, there is circuitry available today which will provide constant level voltage ... I think they call it; "regulated power" ... irregardless of the battery level.
Once the battery's drop below a certain threshhold, the unit stops working. Period.
Simple.


One problem: WEIGHT.

The H10PM ALMOST licks this issue, but it is HEAVY. And over $400.00.

The G is the Key. Keep saying that over and over.

The G is the Key.
The G is the Key.
The G is the Key.
The G is the Key.
The G is the Key.
The G is the Key.
The G is the Key.
The G is the Key.
The G is the Key.
The G is the Key.
The G is the Key.
The G is the Key.

[condenseddave]

Originally posted by nevada

My 12V SpectroLine Model FLK-100 has been great. The only leak that I didn't find was on the back of the evap coil that was not within sight even with a mirror. After pulling the coil it showed up clearly.


And every single one of those leaks would have been found FASTER with an H10G. Including the one you couldn't see.

[condenseddave]

Originally posted by rayr
Maybe, just maybe the H-10G is the best on the market because it was the first electronic leak detector on the market by GE. And they had enough money to make it right. I bought my first one in 1964. The only got better with time.

;)

[R12rules]

The "M" model is what you call .... "too heavy". And it costs over $400.

Maybe for an appliance tech or an apartment maintenance tech ... yes ... $400 would be a tough nut to crack!


But a hundred foot roll of 16 or 18 ga extension cord just to power up the 115volt H10G is heavier.

And then there are issues of where to plug it in at. As well as liability issues/ safety concerns of using that cord inside a market on the sales floor.

Let's face it, whoever designed markets never thought someone might need to have an outlet handy.

In another post, you made the comment that you were the "sucker" for spending money ... LOTS of money on tools. And that you spent plenty on tools for leak detection. Almost like it was an obsession. Almost to the point of insanity!
I can relate. But of course....


So $400 is NOT an issue.
The "M" model does away with the cord and all it's issues.

Dave, does the "M" model hold a suffecient charge for one major leak detection project?
If so, then a trip back to the vehicle for recharging will bring it back up to snuff in short order.

Unless I've missed something ...the "M" model comes with a carrying strap to support it like a meggar. Is that correct?


If you just dont like the "M" .... just say so. But if it happens to be personal love for the H10G ..... then I can accept that.
Your prejedice. And that's fine.:D


But let's face it Dave .... the weight of a tool never bothered you before .... now did it?