View Full Version : Ultra-Aire APD
nicholasa
07-05-2004, 08:50 PM
Ended up going with dual Brynt evolution systems, and an April-Aire ERV on the up stairs system.
I want to add an Ultra air dehumidifier in the basement,
While I can find plenty of info on the web, I can find no pricing or actual sales site for them ?
I want the Ultra-air for the KW/pint removal eff., It will be used as a free standing unit, why are they not priced on the web ??
Thanks,
Nick
teddy bear
07-06-2004, 11:05 AM
Curious, what kind of basement relative humidity levels do you get during cool wet weather with the premium systems that you have? How much ventilation air do use? How big is your home/basement? I feel that these premium systems are unable to provide <50%RH during wet cool weather & ventilation. If interested, I would loan data loggers to monitor temperatures/RH inside/outside your home during different weather conditions. In addition to Ultra-Aire, check the Santa Fe dehumidifiers. They are equal to U-A efficiency, but cost less and are ideal for free standing. A/C contracters can supply either.
cxagent
07-07-2004, 02:49 PM
An A/C contractor can sell you the Ultra-Aire APD. Thermastor will sell it to you directly, but they prefer to sell through a contractor so there is someone to provide warranty service, if needed.
My guess is they don't put prices on the web because they want to sell through a contractor. It may also be that they don't like to compare to other models on price alone. Most consumer will only look at price and not consider performance.
nicholasa
07-08-2004, 03:07 PM
Teddy B,
The house is under construction still (dry wall is going up.) This house is sealed up tight, (spray in place foam insulation)
The house has 2 systems - 1 for the basement and 1st floor, and 1 for the 2nd floor.
The upstairs system has an April aire ERV.
The basement is damp (very damp), so instead of an ERV, I was looking at adding a dehumidifier with fresh air intake.
Bottom line is : those fancy a$$ carrier/Brynt systems won't remove humidity if Your not in the cooling season.
I am looking for the most effiecent (kw/pint) dehumidifier W/fresh air intake.
So far Ultra-air is the only one that I found that has a fresh air intake.
http://www.sheltersupply.com claims that the Ultra-air is a santa-fe unit with "options" ???
Thanks,
Nick
teddy bear
07-08-2004, 09:07 PM
The dehumidification capacity of the Santa Fe is the same as the UA 100V. The UA has remote low voltage dehumidistat, high eff. air filtering, and control of make-up air ventilation. It also is available in a 150 pint horizontal configeration. Would suggest 100 pint unit for <2,500 sq.ft. of space. For 3,500 suggest the UA 150H. For fresh air option, use the UA for the fresh air controls. You are inbetween because of the ERV. ERVs reduce the humidity load about 25%. With this adjustment, 3,500 sq.ft. for a UA 100V or 4,500 sq.ft. with UA 150 H. Sounds like an interesting home. Keep us posted!
uktra
07-09-2004, 08:06 PM
Is your basement block or poured?
airman1
07-09-2004, 08:12 PM
My office got 3 inches of water on the glued down carpet...what did i do?...put the ultra air in there for three months ..it kept the humidity, in houston now, at 38% and i only had a hint if smell for a few days...didnt even clean the carpet for six months after....no mold at all...that thing is well designed, well supported, and value priced...
nicholasa
07-11-2004, 02:50 PM
The house has poured concrete walls (8")
The gutters are not on yet, so all the roof water dumps down the out side of the basement walls. very high clay soil, the exterior footer drains daylight, but do not seam to be draining the water away from the exterior of the walls. about 2 days after a heavy rain the bottom 2' of the wall gets wet.
I have got to get the gutters on, final grade, and purge the footer drains.
This should dry things out, but I think I will still install a Ultra-air dehumidifier in the basement.
Nick
uktra
07-12-2004, 09:26 AM
Key problem with bulding basements is the code lags behind science. Poured wall footer section should be isolated from ground with vapor barrier. Footers should have holes to relieve hydr0static pressure. Styrofaom should be used on the inside of the wall to prevent a dew point. The biggest problem on vapor/humididty/moisture then would be the curing of the floor--which would require only temperary dehumidification. As a builder, you might want check out Superior Wall precast system. This system has anti-moisture items built in.
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