View Full Version : goodman HP/Lights dimming
Randykissling
04-20-2010, 07:36 PM
Hi guys
I installed a 16 seer HP last fall Works great but the lights blink when the compressor kicks on. Would you recommend say a 5-2-1 compressor saver(relay/start capacitor)to help the pump start with a little less amp draw. Thanks
I_bend_metal
04-20-2010, 07:48 PM
In a word......YES
A 16 Seer Goodman has a TXV on the evap coil....therefore YES you need one.....
I kinda have a feeling there might be other electrical issues going on with dimming lights though.....
Kevin O'Neill
04-20-2010, 07:49 PM
Actually, the starting surge will be bigger, but shorter. Often, you cannot see fast surges because the lights dim for too short a time.
skippedover
04-20-2010, 08:37 PM
Lights should not dim when the outdoor unit comes on. Consult a reliable electrician. He/she should be able to diagnose your problem. If your compressor was exceeding the amp draw for start-up, the circuit breaker would be tripping. It isn't so that means the compressor/outdoor unit is operating within specs. I've seen locked up compressors drawing way more than a start surge and they barely change the lights at all. So a start surge dimming the lights is an electrical problem. Get it checked out. Please. :putergreet:
hvacvegas
04-20-2010, 10:07 PM
Did it happen before? Did you "upgrade" your unit to a larger tonnage?
mrbenz7
04-20-2010, 10:25 PM
Installing a 5/2/1 jumpstart shouldn't hurt, but you have bigger problems if the lights are dimming when the unit kicks on. You need to contact an electrician to determine your panel arrangement and circuit/wire size.
This isn't normal and needs to be loked into right away.
Special Ed
04-21-2010, 08:04 PM
A 16SEER Goodman uses a scroll compressor. What this means is that a hard-start kit isn't required nor are they recommended in this application regardless if there's a TXV installed at the air handler or not.
Call an electrician. He should be able to help you.
Randykissling
04-22-2010, 06:09 PM
Thanks special ed
What I meant to say is the lights dont dim they just have that very quick fractional blink
beenthere
04-22-2010, 07:10 PM
What size was the old heat pump.
Did it blink the lights.
What model number is the outdoor unit.
What model number is the indoor unit.
Was the charge checked by Goodman's instruction.
What size wire is ran to the outdoor unit.
How long of a run is it.
What size service is the house panel.
Randykissling
04-22-2010, 07:24 PM
cond mod # is ssz140361
30 amp breaker 10/2 wire
fused at the unit 25 amp fuse
air hand mod # aepf426016
5 kw heat elemant
30 amp breaker 10/2 wire
THANK YOU for the help what do you think
PS house is 9 yrs old 200 amp service
beenthere
04-22-2010, 07:30 PM
I'd check to see if the SC and SH are where Goodman says they should be.
Randykissling
04-22-2010, 07:57 PM
Gonna do that the next 70 degree day Thanx
Mr Bill
04-22-2010, 07:59 PM
I'd check to see if the SC and SH are where Goodman says they should be.
I don't think he ever said "how long" the 10/2 run was, that could be the problem, also even though he has a 200 amp service, how big is the wire feeding the service from the pole? was it upgraded when the service was?
The start assist would be my last thing, especially since it has a Scroll, it should not even need a start assist. I personally would address all the electrical first they try the start assist, I really don't think it will solve the problem, JMO.
I am guessing that is 10/2 with a ground, not just 10/2. 10-2 wire would have two conductors, typically a black used for the hot, and a white used for the neutral. If the label says "10-2 with ground" then the cable would also contain a bare or green insulated ground wire.
Randykissling
04-22-2010, 07:59 PM
This site is great you guys are awesome
allan38
04-22-2010, 08:13 PM
I'd check for high resistance connections on the circuit. With an inductive load the amperage will increase when the voltage decreases.
Randykissling
04-22-2010, 08:30 PM
I am not sure what that means The electrical run is less than 60 ft.It has a dedicated ground. I am quite sure the 410 charge is very close
Special Ed
04-22-2010, 09:35 PM
If memory serves, I think that condenser requires a 30A breaker....
And do all that everyone else recommends. :D
mrbenz7
04-23-2010, 12:23 AM
Thanks special ed
What I meant to say is the lights dont dim they just have that very quick fractional blink
Oh, that's totally different thing than dimming! I would ask how long this circuit is and maybe have your electrician upgrade to an 8*AWG wire. Also, making sure your connections are clean and tight will greatly help. I would not use a 5/2/1 knowing what we know now. This system isn't supposed to need one anyway, but here in Phoenix there were so many new neighborhoods that were built up so fast that low voltages are a bit of a problem when the current power supply is on the other end of the neighborhood. And when everyone comes home from 3:00 PM to 8:00 PM.
hvacvegas
04-24-2010, 09:36 PM
If memory serves, I think that condenser requires a 30A breaker....
And do all that everyone else recommends. :D
MAX breaker is 30. Which means the 25 amp fuses are fine.
Out of curiosity, what is the location of the Air handler and Heat pump breakers in the panel? Near the top? Middle? Bottom? High load devices are supposed to be at the top, I've heard of breakers being at the bottom and causing lights to flicker.
Also, what is the location of the Heat pump? The ground, The roof?
Whats the location of the air handler? Basement? Second floor closet? Attic?
What is the estimated height(within 5-10 feet) differerence between them?
Randykissling
04-25-2010, 07:56 AM
Breakers are in the top 1/3 of panel box. Air handler is in the attic 8 ft above the condensor.
trouble time
04-25-2010, 08:13 AM
I would check the compressor contactor to see if it is defective; slow to pull in or contacts uneven.
beenthere
04-25-2010, 12:48 PM
Confirm that it has the correct charge.
Randy. Get your post count up to 15 and apply for pro membership. Once accepted. You'll have access to the pro tech forums. Where we are allowed to get technical in our responses.
mrbenz7
04-25-2010, 12:59 PM
I am not sure what that means The electrical run is less than 60 ft.It has a dedicated ground. I am quite sure the 410 charge is very close
I think what allen38 meant, if that is what you are responding to is that connections with a high resistance will be accompanied by a voltage drop when a load is applied. When that happens with electric motors, they cannot get the electromotive force they need to function properly and will try to draw MORE amperage to make us the difference from the voltage drop!
Examples of Connections of high resistance would be too short a wire where attached to circuit breakers or service disconnects making the little bit of wire overheat. Screws or bolt heads holding wire in place not tight enough, terminals dirty and or corroded, etc........ easy things for your electrician to check out.
Personally, I would have made this circuit 8*AWG wire for a run of approximately 60 feet, just to be on the safe side.
Randykissling
04-25-2010, 01:21 PM
I have run this electrical line through my old unit circut. I am sure it is 10 guage all the way to the disconnect. I am using the old disconnect and a new fusible(25 amp) box. I am going to bypass the old line and shorten the line to fifteen feet in length (panel to out door unit) should i still switch to 8 guage wire?
mrbenz7
04-25-2010, 01:56 PM
I have run this electrical line through my old unit circut. I am sure it is 10 guage all the way to the disconnect. I am using the old disconnect and a new fusible(25 amp) box. I am going to bypass the old line and shorten the line to fifteen feet in length (panel to out door unit) should i still switch to 8 guage wire?
I'm not sure how you went to a run of 15 feet when the original is 60 feet or less! Is the unit in a different location now than it was in the first place? Also, I can't get too technical because of this forums DIY rules and I'm not there to see your installation anyway.
But I can give you some basic factors. A next larger wire size will have less of a voltage drop in almost any length. If you can run an outdoor circuit on the outside of the building and shorten your circuit as much as you say then that would be a better way to go. It is considered good practise to make electrical runs only as long as necessary for the best performance.
I don't know where you are, but a good hardware or building material store in your area should be able to tell you what basic code is and advise you how to proceed and make suggestions on wire size and weatherproof conduit types that must be used to get the job done properly.
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