Anyone ever worked on a True GDM-43F

[refer guy]

Has any one worked on one of these cases where you had to replace the cap tubes?

http://www.truemfg.com/CC_catalogs/true_master/lines/region2/area/pdf/GDM-43F.pdf


Oh me oh my what a nightmare, well i show up to a case last week and someone had replaced the dual captubes in the case however the case would never pull down lower then 8 degrees, looked around and found that the old captube was cutoff where it comes out the bottom of the case next to the suction line and then they ran the new captubes from the lineset to the evap coil on the rear wall of the case, outside of the case and near the top a hole was drilled so that they could stick the cap tubes through. well i tried condemming the case because of some other issues but i got a big o surprise when i found out that the customer wanted it repaired. Today i went and the only way i could acess the suction line was to cut part of the rear wall of the case, rip out some of the case wall insulation so that i could run the captubes secured to the suction line, after all that i had to add some foam insulation, and patch it up with sheet metal, but after all that i put it back on line and the case dropped down to -6 degrees. i mentioned that we were going to have to do this to the case but it was approved so therefor covered my butt if someone ever sees the back wall of that case.

Has anyone gone through this nightmare?

[KB Cool]

Never had to do that. But, someone here mentioned the idea of just running the cap tube inside the suction line. Cut the suction line at evap and bottom of case. Drop cap tube down suction line from above. Install 2 tee's, crimp and braze.

[itsiceman]

refer guy have you seen the small corner molding for the indide that True has to run a new suction/captube up in the inside corner and not hit the shelves then route it where ever once you get up top ?
Would this have worked ?

[icemeister]

The True Service Manual (listed in the Educational Forums HERE (http://hvac-talk.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=163063)) has their recommended cap tube replacement procedure for the GDM on pages 29-30.

[itsiceman]

That is a great manual. Wish more manufactures had one like that. The way he's moaning about it the line set must be run like a T series in the wall and not like most GDM's though.

[bob_scheel]

Never had to do that. But, someone here mentioned the idea of just running the cap tube inside the suction line. Cut the suction line at evap and bottom of case. Drop cap tube down suction line from above. Install 2 tee's, crimp and braze.

Sounds like it would work great. When we do one these true units we get the suction line / cap tube kit from True and install it inside in the corner. Sometimes you can avoid all of this by pumping the system down and blowing nitrogen through the system backwards if you are lucky it will blow out whatever is blocking the cap tube.:cheers:

[VTP99]

Or sometimes just cutting off a few inches at the start of the tube is suffice.:patriot:

[refer guy]

The True Service Manual (listed in the Educational Forums HERE (http://hvac-talk.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=163063)) has their recommended cap tube replacement procedure for the GDM on pages 29-30.

thank you thank you thank you, if you were infront of me id give ya a big o hug:grin2:

this info is awesome, im gonna pass it on to the rest of our guys.

Also, i would of never thought of running the cap tube through the inside of the suction line, crazy stuff.

[270wsm]

I have done a few where I had to run the cap tubes up the outside of the back wall and drill a hole at the top to get it inside. I never had any problems with doing it that way. They are all working fine.

[VTP99]

I'm still waiting to try that tube inside of tube trick. Talk about sub cooling:yes:

[itsiceman]

Also, i would of never thought of running the cap tube through the inside of the suction line, crazy stuff.This is a PITA vs running a new suction line with the cap IMO

[VTP99]

Iceman
Whats the PITA part ? Bends & turns in the suction line ?

[n8ies]

I too have run the cap tube up on the outside of the back wall and have not had any problems, must have been sized wrong.

I use the sizing info that comes with the Supco cap tubes my wholesalers sell, has not failed me yet.

I wish the manufacturers would extend the evaporator inlet outside the cabinet I sure get tired of spending more time taking some pos apart to get at the evaporator to replace the cap tube.

some good cap tube enginering data here.
http://www.supco.com/images/pdfs/Manuals-Instructions/Cap%20Tubing%20Manual.pdf

tom

[refer guy]

I ended up using the same two cap tubes that were run outside the back wall of the case, and secured them to the suction pipe. There was nothing wrong with the length or size.

For those of you who have ran the cap tube on the outside of the case......is it really working or is it sort of working because i noticed that it takes about two to three hours to pull down to almost 0 degrees but never in the negatives unless the case does not get open for 12 hours or so. Are you all checking cut in and cut out temp before writting up your work order and putting "All Ops OK" I sometimes get guys who tell me that the walk in freezer is at -10 degrees because the wall thermometer indicates so and i respond by saying that the only way to know what the actual temp in the case is would be by taking a interior temp with your dam fluke.

[VTP99]

refer
Are you thinking exterior line not as good as interior ? Additional super heat @ compressor with outside line set ? Or no addition sub cooling with just outside cap tubes ?

[itsiceman]

Iceman
Whats the PITA part ? Bends & turns in the suction line ?Yes, hard to pass any bends and the finishing off the Tee connection goblygook up in the evap area. Much eiser to cut a hole in the bottom corner and run new pipes up and over and screw on the white corner trim. (This is for lines that are foamed in the wall)

[itsiceman]

I ended up using the same two cap tubes that were run outside the back wall of the case, and secured them to the suction pipe. There was nothing wrong with the length or size.

For those of you who have ran the cap tube on the outside of the case......is it really working or is it sort of working because i noticed that it takes about two to three hours to pull down to almost 0 degrees but never in the negatives unless the case does not get open for 12 hours or so. Are you all checking cut in and cut out temp before writting up your work order and putting "All Ops OK" I sometimes get guys who tell me that the walk in freezer is at -10 degrees because the wall thermometer indicates so and i respond by saying that the only way to know what the actual temp in the case is would be by taking a interior temp with your dam fluke.was the suction behind a cover with the drain line ?
If sombody ran the caps up the back they must have not wanted to unload all the food and remove all the shelves.

[VTP99]

How are you doing your turns out & up the wall ? No kinks right. Or are you talking just caps ?

[itsiceman]

I run up the inside back left corner on a T-series (suction line + cap tube ) where the original lines are molded in the wall.
All the regular size GDM's I've seen go up the middle behind a removable cover so its a piece of cake

[refer guy]

was the suction behind a cover with the drain line ?
If sombody ran the caps up the back they must have not wanted to unload all the food and remove all the shelves.

no, the cap tube ran inside of the back wall incased in the foam.

[itsiceman]

Wow nightmare was right :eek2:
You made work so way 2 go refer

[bob_scheel]

I too have run the cap tube up on the outside of the back wall and have not had any problems, must have been sized wrong.

I use the sizing info that comes with the Supco cap tubes my wholesalers sell, has not failed me yet.

I wish the manufacturers would extend the evaporator inlet outside the cabinet I sure get tired of spending more time taking some pos apart to get at the evaporator to replace the cap tube.

some good cap tube enginering data here.
http://www.supco.com/images/pdfs/Manuals-Instructions/Cap%20Tubing%20Manual.pdf

tom

Amen! While they are at it put a TXV in. With POE oil all that has to happen is let the oil overheat with a dirty condenser and you can get it a cap tube plugged.

[refer guy]

Wow nightmare was right :eek2:
You made work so way 2 go refer

Its working good, it had never gone down in temp this much, now the only thing that worries me is all the insulation we ripped out. i replaced it with liquid foam insulation, and sealed the panel with alot of silicone, hopefully that works and if not then im sure the case will begin to form a iceball on that back wall.

[FarleyRedfield]

Worked on a lot of these for Dollar General here but never (knocking) need to change cap tubes. had about everything else from leaking sight glass on compressor to defrost to ice dripping down in the case. But thank God no cap tubes. What an Addams Family Nightmare.

[itsiceman]

Wouldn't be surprised if you see more of these
WFIW I think the caps could be a little bigger on this unit :.02:

3/4" hole, bent a piece of 1/2" and strapped on the caps

Still a PITA but somebodys got to do it :nopity:

[VTP99]

Wouldn't be surprised if you see more of these
WFIW I think the caps could be a little bigger on this unit :.02:

3/4" hole, bent a piece of 1/2" and strapped on the caps

Still a PITA but somebodys got to do it :nopity:

If you get back there put a little silicone around that penetration. Wouldn't want any vibration to cut threw those cap tubes. Just saying :angel:
Like the clean corner look.

[itsiceman]

I crammed the black goo from the original line set over in the new hole ;)