Gas/ air package or Duel fuel package

[mrbasicshark]

Looking to replace a working (so no rush) 20 year old natural gas heat / Air Package unit. I live in KY. Right now electric rates are high, but natural gas is low......

I was thinking about going with a duel fuel system and setting it to use whichever heat is the cheapest...so right now I would use the gas setting all the time, but when/if gas goes back up then change the setting back to the standard heat pump with gas back up.

But I am not sure. Would I be better off just getting another gas / air package unit, or would it be better go with the duel fuel package unit?

Any suggestions?

:anyone:
Thanks.

[beenthere]

Post your electric and gas rates.
Delivered price with all taxes and fee's included.
A dual fuel may make more sense then you realize. or less sense.

[mrbasicshark]

Gas:

Total Rate ccf:
$1.0194

Electric:
About 0.087kwh

(Could not find rate on electric statement, so I just divided Total bill beofre taxes by kwh used)


Waiting to hear back from dealers re: unit pricing.

[Rhizzlebop]

Shark, if your electric is 8.7 cents per kwh then it is NOT high at all. Its actually about the cheapest that I have seen ANYONE ever post here, and definately cheaper than SC where I live which has been known to have cheap AC rates.

With that said I don't follow your gas rate of just over 1 dollar per "ccf"?
I know thats not a buck a cubic ft. I'm guessing its per therm which would also be considered cheap.

Dual fuel may be a good idea, but definately NOT your best bet to just run on gas all the time.

There is almost no way at any realistic rate that gas would be cheaper than a HP at around 40 to 50 degrees outside, and likely the HP is cheaper on down under 30F. I've venture a guess that your AC rate would have to more than double for you to begin considering running on gas all the time and prob still not then.

However, for anyone reading and commenting on this, I'm working on a large building and one of the systems is a small packaged roof mounted HP w gas furnace and I was told that of the major manufacturers, that only TRANE has that in a small size (i'm looking at 3.5 tons) and Aaon has it at 6 tons and larger, but are about to release it at the smaller sizes too.

Shark, if you can, I'd look at the Aaon unit. It has a digital scroll compressor so it really matches your load. Aaon is currently running a promotion where they upgraded all their units to the digital scroll for free.

[gary_g]

Gas:

Total Rate ccf:
$1.0194

Electric:
About 0.087kwh

(Could not find rate on electric statement, so I just divided Total bill beofre taxes by kwh used)


Waiting to hear back from dealers re: unit pricing.

Compare the cost of 1 million btu's of heat.

Gas at $1.02 per ccf, 80% efficient furnace.
(1,000,000 / 100,000) x 1.02 / .8
= $12.75

Heat pump w/electrcity at $.09 per kw-hr delivered, C.O.P. = 3.4 at 35F ambient.
(1,000,000 / 3414) x .09 / 3.4
= $7.75

The heat pump is 39% cheaper than the gas furnace for the same 1 million btu's of heat.

As the ambient temp increases from the 35F example, the C.O.P. increases, and the heat pump is even cheaper to run.

The C.O.P. is taken from published data for a Goodman packaged heat pump. Your C.O.P. may be different.

Take care.

[HVACDaddyo]

I think dual fuel or hybrid is better. Make sure you get units that qualify for federal tax credit (95% furnace with ECM and 15 SEER or better heat pump) There might also be utility rebates

[gary_g]

I think dual fuel or hybrid is better. Make sure you get units that qualify for federal tax credit (95% furnace with ECM and 15 SEER or better heat pump) There might also be utility rebates

That's for a split system.

He's looking at a package system. 14 SEER and 12 EER and 8 HSPF for a package heat pump system to qualify for the Fed Tax Credit.

[mrbasicshark]

Thanks for the info. As far as rate, I think I may have worded my original post bad. I know our rates are good vs national average, I was just saying for my area I was under the impression electric is higher at the moment, from word of mouth and local news reports. I know for the same amount of useage, my heat bill has dropped about $75 vs last year. Not really paid much attention to ele as it is usually low of the winter anyway, since the current gas heating.

Again, thanks for all the info!

[caincompany]

Check on a Ruud or Rheem dual fuel with the Honeywell focus pro 8000 tstat w/outdoor sensor. Its a sweet set up. Lifetime heat exch warranty, copeland scroll. Nice unit.

[beenthere]

Gas:

Total Rate ccf:
$1.0194

Electric:
About 0.087kwh

(Could not find rate on electric statement, so I just divided Total bill beofre taxes by kwh used)


Waiting to hear back from dealers re: unit pricing.

Dual fuel will save you money when the outdoor temps are above 35. Might be as high as 40°

You should have divided it with the taxes included.

[mrbasicshark]

Got my first set of quotes today. In order of least to greatest:

(3 Ton units)

1. Trane XL14 Gas pack: cheapest

2. Trane xl14 duel fuel : $higher

3. Trane xl16 gas pack: $ higher then 1st, $ higher then 2nd

My stated cooling load calulation: 27000 BTU's

Any suggestions?

[tigerdunes]

shark

#2 would be my choice.

I believe XL14c is the mdl number.

Why three ton when 2 1/2 ton is available? Here is the AHRI matching number which qualifies for tax credit.

3000837 Active Systems XL14C TRANE 4DCY4030A1 30000 12.00 14.25 28000 8.00 15400

I would use a HW VP IAQ stat with this system.

Trane's sister company Am Std has same model which might be less expensive.

You might check with utility and see if they offer special rate when using heat pump.

IMO
Good Luck!

http://www.trane.com/Residential/Products/Packaged-Units/XL14c-Packaged-EarthWise-Hybrid

[mrbasicshark]

THanks, I having been leaning towards #2 the whole time, just not real sure as I have never used or saw in use.

As for the 3T. The dealer said he Upsized just a bit because, I have an unfinshed basement and a laudry/ utility room built onto garage that are all unheated. Says that would allow me the option to add a vent or two later, if I need or deciede to.

Thanks again.

[Rhizzlebop]

I would agree with the second choice there as well. You want that heat pump for your most energy savings. Just get a GOOD stat with it to control when to run the heatpump vs the furnace. Also, MAKE SURE that outdoor unit comes with an outdoor temperature sensor installed.


Also, if you have those unfinished spaces, you might wanna get an estimate on going ahead and running those duct branches as well now, and maybe you can get a little bigger piece of that back with the tax credit.

[mrbasicshark]

Ok, so I think I have got it narrowed down tp two possible units

both duel fuel trane 3 Ton

XL16c or XL14c

both are almost the same, the 16 is a little more expensive. The 16 has a longer internal parts warrenty, a little higher SEER and has two stage heating and cooling vs two stage cool and one on the heat.

Any suggestins?

Or does anyone think I should just keep my current sysytem?

it is a 21 yr old (1989), 10 SEER gas/electric pack Goodman. It has Been working fine without problems. Utility bills are not bad. (I just though it might be a good time to buy with rebates,etc and know the age of the unit)

Thanks to everyone for all the advice!

[gary_g]

Ok, so I think I have got it narrowed down tp two possible units

both duel fuel trane 3 Ton

XL16c or XL14c

both are almost the same, the 16 is a little more expensive. The 16 has a longer internal parts warrenty, a little higher SEER and has two stage heating and cooling vs two stage cool and one on the heat.

Any suggestins?

Or does anyone think I should just keep my current sysytem?

it is a 21 yr old (1989), 10 SEER gas/electric pack Goodman. It has Been working fine without problems. Utility bills are not bad. (I just though it might be a good time to buy with rebates,etc and know the age of the unit)

Thanks to everyone for all the advice!

You'll save about 30% on your electricity consumption used for cooling going from a 10 SEER to a 14 SEER.

21 years is a good service life.

Better to replace when you are not in a crisis and have time to evaluate options.

Plus you can get the $1500 Fed Tax Credit if the packaged unit is 14 SEER and 12 EER.

Good luck.

[sammy37]

Looking to replace a working (so no rush) 20 year old natural gas heat / Air Package unit. I live in KY. Right now electric rates are high, but natural gas is low......

I was thinking about going with a duel fuel system and setting it to use whichever heat is the cheapest...so right now I would use the gas setting all the time, but when/if gas goes back up then change the setting back to the standard heat pump with gas back up.

But I am not sure. Would I be better off just getting another gas / air package unit, or would it be better go with the duel fuel package unit?

Any suggestions?

:anyone:
Thanks.

Your old unit is still working but you are on borrowed time, 21 years is great service.

If you dont end up going dual fuel, then consider another Goodman. The age of your unit goes to show that Goodman is not as bad as some people think.

We have hundreds upon hundreds of 15 to 20 year old Goodman gas packs and package heat pumps in this valley that are still kicking just fine.

Seems to me like most of the problems reported with Goodman on this site, are always on split systems. That tells me poor install, bad contractor.

[chuckcrj]

Trane's sister company Am Std has same model which might be less expensive.


I have seen this said before and always wondered where the idea came from.

If you're a contractor and go to a distributor you can get the same unit in either Trane or Am Std for exactly the same price.

[BamaCool]

I have seen this said before and always wondered where the idea came from.

If you're a contractor and go to a distributor you can get the same unit in either Trane or Am Std for exactly the same price.
Maybe where you are. Not here. Trane is MUCH more expensive than AS!

[mrbasicshark]

shark

#2 would be my choice.

I believe XL14c is the mdl number.

Why three ton when 2 1/2 ton is available? Here is the AHRI matching number which qualifies for tax credit.

3000837 Active Systems XL14C TRANE 4DCY4030A1 30000 12.00 14.25 28000 8.00 15400

I would use a HW VP IAQ stat with this system.

Trane's sister company Am Std has same model which might be less expensive.

You might check with utility and see if they offer special rate when using heat pump.

IMO
Good Luck!

http://www.trane.com/Residential/Products/Packaged-Units/XL14c-Packaged-EarthWise-Hybrid


Why HW VP IAQ over trane 803? Also what are the thoughts on Honeywell prestige stat?

[jerryd_2008]

Gas:

Total Rate ccf:
$1.0194

Electric:
About 0.087kwh

(Could not find rate on electric statement, so I just divided Total bill beofre taxes by kwh used)


Waiting to hear back from dealers re: unit pricing.

I may be wrong, but don't you add everything except the customer charge and then divide by usage? Meaning that taxes are included, not excluded.

[mrbasicshark]

I may be wrong, but don't you add everything except the customer charge and then divide by usage? Meaning that taxes are included, not excluded.


I am not really sure how to figure it exactly. I did find my electrc rate posted on the ele company website. As of 3/12/10. It is 0.0700/Kwh, 20.52/per 1,000,000 BTU

Also, they just applied for a 30% rate increase that is pending

[gary_g]

I did find my electrc rate posted on the ele company website. As of 3/12/10. It is 0.0700/Kwh, 20.52/per 1,000,000 BTU

Also, they just applied for a 30% rate increase that is pending

7 cents per kw-hr is dirt cheap. Make sure that is your delivered price, and not just the generation cost.

Delivered = generation + transmission + distribution.

In Maryland, the distribution and transmission charges add almost 3 cents per kw-hr.

That planned 30% increase in the rate, plus the age of your system, is a good reason to consider a new system now.

You can combat that 30% rate increase with a 30% savings in electricity consumption on your cooling costs if you get a new system.

Take care.

[beenthere]

Why HW VP IAQ over trane 803? Also what are the thoughts on Honeywell prestige stat?

The IAQ can do more hings then the 803(which is a Honeywell TH8321)

Such as slow a VS blower, control a humidifier, dehumidifier etc.

[mrbasicshark]

The IAQ can do more hings then the 803(which is a Honeywell TH8321)

Such as slow a VS blower, control a humidifier, dehumidifier etc.


Cool. Thanks. Didn't know that.

Also after looking up more info, just noticed a posting that stated that the Trane 900 (tcont900) was the same as the IAQ.

How about the HW prestige, anyone got an opinion on it?

[mrbasicshark]

Thanks to everyone for all the info. I think I got one final question. I have been looking up info on one vs two stage, but still not sure.

My house is about 1800 sq ft living space (one level) with a unfinished basement. The temp in my living room/ kitchen is about 2 degrees different then at my T'stat which is down the hall.

Should I get a one stage or two stage unit?

[beenthere]

2 stage tends to help even out the room temps.

I'd go with 2 stage.

[tedkidd]

With vs blower...

[jerryd_2008]

7 cents per kw-hr is dirt cheap. Make sure that is your delivered price, and not just the generation cost.

Delivered = generation + transmission + distribution.

...

Gary, what about including taxes? I assume that all variable costs are included in the cost of electricity or NG.

I also thought that the customer charge is removed because it is fixed and everybody pays it (i.e. you have electricity or NG then you pay the charge and it has nothing to do with usage). Any clarifications?:anyone:

[beenthere]

Don't need to include your fixed fee's. They're there no matter how much you use or don't use.

[mrbasicshark]

I am supposed to meet with the sales agent tomorrow, to go over everything on last time.....I am looking to get the 3 ton trane XL16c duel Fuel package unit.......Only thing that has got me thinking..

.I changed my gas water heater to an electirc heat pump water heater (because of the pilot light issues)....So just wondering if I should still go duel fuel or all electric.

My gas company does have that minimal charge you have to pay each month even if you do not use any gas (which of the summer I will not now) Without getting into price to much, lets just say the charge is in the mid-teens.

Any final suggestions, thoughts, or comments?

[gary_g]

I am supposed to meet with the sales agent tomorrow, to go over everything on last time.....I am looking to get the 3 ton trane XL16c duel Fuel package unit.......Only thing that has got me thinking..

.I changed my gas water heater to an electirc heat pump water heater (because of the pilot light issues)....So just wondering if I should still go duel fuel or all electric.


My gas company does have that minimal charge you have to pay each month even if you do not use any gas (which of the summer I will not now) Without getting into price to much, lets just say the charge is in the mid-teens.

Any final suggestions, thoughts, or comments?

Going over all of the previous posts, based on your stated utiity rates, a heat pump saves you 39% on 1 million btu's of heat.

You need to re-post the rates if they've changed. You mentioned a 30% increase in your electric rates. You also never confirmed that the 7 cents per kw-hr was a delivered price, and not just generation.

Don't think you can claim the full $1500 Fed Tax Credit for the new system if you claimed any Tax Credit for the new fancy hot water heater.

[mrbasicshark]

shark

#2 would be my choice.

I believe XL14c is the mdl number.

Why three ton when 2 1/2 ton is available? Here is the AHRI matching number which qualifies for tax credit.

3000837 Active Systems XL14C TRANE 4DCY4030A1 30000 12.00 14.25 28000 8.00 15400

I would use a HW VP IAQ stat with this system.

Trane's sister company Am Std has same model which might be less expensive.

You might check with utility and see if they offer special rate when using heat pump.

IMO
Good Luck!

http://www.trane.com/Residential/Products/Packaged-Units/XL14c-Packaged-EarthWise-Hybrid

Does anyone know the AHRI matching number / model number of the XL16c Duel Fuel package unit?

[gary_g]

Does anyone know the AHRI matching number / model number of the XL16c Duel Fuel package unit?

3 ton:
Model# 4DCZ6036A3

AHRI Reference# 3000027
35,000 btu cooling, 12 EER, 16 SEER, 9 HSPF, 34,000 btu heating at 47F

[mrbasicshark]

Thanks everyone to all your suggestions, advice, and comments. I got the trane XL16c DF ordered today. Guess that will end the tread unless anyone would like me to follow up and post about how the unit turns out?

[chuckcrj]

Thanks everyone to all your suggestions, advice, and comments. I got the trane XL16c DF ordered today. Guess that will end the tread unless anyone would like me to follow up and post about how the unit turns out?

We would love to see some feedback, especially pictures!

[mrbasicshark]

They are coming to set-up my system today. A couple of final questions they hit me with.

(1) What is the advice reguarding extended warranty? (Basicly I would be getting 8 years labor coverage)

(2) They ask how I want the Trane 803 stat set-up?
For: (A) Leave Home, Wake, Sleep (B) Leave Home Only (C)Non-programable

I asked and they reccomended Home only, but I have no clue. I am not sure if I would use the progamable options as my schedule always varies.

(3)What temp to switch to back-up fuel heat?
I am thinking about 40*



Any suggestions?

[ I will try to post more pictures soon, the one attached is my current Goodman system ]

My old unit (pictured). Goodman, Model PG036100-1, Year Dec 1989, 3 ton, 10 SEER, Gas/Electric Package

[mrbasicshark]

post removed - duplicate, see prior post

[tigerdunes]

mrbasicshark

first of all, that's a heck of a nice system.

good numbers across the board for a DF package unit and of course it qualifies for the tax credit.

two issues come to mind.

I assume you are going up in size from a 2 1/2 ton to a three ton. your dealer should have given you a thorough inspection of your ductwork system. usually going up in size requires modification to your ductwork.

and second regarding the 803 stat, dealer is installing outdoor sensor so you can control switchover pt between gas and HP? I really prefer HW VP IAQ stat with outdoor sensor.

IMO
Good Luck today!

[mrbasicshark]

3 ton:
Model# 4DCZ6036A3

AHRI Reference# 3000027
35,000 btu cooling, 12 EER, 16 SEER, 9 HSPF, 34,000 btu heating at 47F

Not sure what the difference is but the model number on this unit is:

4DCZ6036A1

[tigerdunes]

mrbasicshark

performance/eff numbers remain the same.

3000026 Active Systems XL16C TRANE 4DCZ6036A1 35000 12.00 16.00 34000 9.00 21000

I believe one is sgl phase, the other is 3 phase. perhaps another forum member can confirm.

IMO

[gary_g]

(3)What temp to switch to back-up fuel heat?
I am thinking about 40*


Based on previous posts:

The heat pump should run until the thermostat determines that it can't keep up, then calls for auxiliary gas heat.

40F ambient is too high.

If you have to pick a temp, start with 32F, then work your way down to the mid 20's if possible.

Good luck with the new system.

Don't forget to invite us to the party :)

[gary_g]

mrbasicshark

performance/eff numbers remain the same.

3000026 Active Systems XL16C TRANE 4DCZ6036A1 35000 12.00 16.00 34000 9.00 21000

I believe one is sgl phase, the other is 3 phase. perhaps another forum member can confirm.

IMO

You are correct, TD.

I gave him the 3-phase model# by mistake.

Take care.

[mrbasicshark]

Picture of inside

Currently getting replaced. Looks like a very nice unit, hope it runs like it loooks.

This new unit is 3 tons as was my old unit. However, overall the new unit is larger. They are currently having a bit of trouble with the intake and return, having to make the holes wider/bigger. Scares me a bit about having incorrect duct work now, but the duct work was set up for 3 tons (aleast I think, going from that was what my old unit was). Hopefully it will be fine.

[tigerdunes]

mrbasicshark

like Gary suggested, I also recommend the switchover pt be set at 32 degrees and adjusted as necessary to fit your family's comfort.

IMO

[mrbasicshark]

Job is done. Seems to be working, to soon to tell alot about it yet though. The biggest thing they had to do was......the initial duct work to the old unit was 12inch, the new unit requires 14in, so they had to make my opening into my house a little bigger so the 14in would fit......Makes me wonder about my whole house duct work, but they said it should be fine. Said I had a real good size house return.

Now wondering if I should get the extended 8 year labor warrenty? I am leaning towards yes.

[beenthere]

Looks like the flex isn't pulled tight, and is bunched up. That will restrict air flow.

[sammy37]

Looks like they set bricks under the corners to level it up, not very professional. Looks like galvanized pipe for gas line and the thermostat wire should have been run in 1/2" liquid tight.
I agree with beenthere on the flex.

[sammy37]

[QUOTE=mrbasicshark;6549172]Job is done. Seems to be working, to soon to tell alot about it yet though. The biggest thing they had to do was......the initial duct work to the old unit was 12inch, the new unit requires 14in, so they had to make my opening into my house a little bigger so the 14in would fit......Makes me wonder about my whole house duct work, but they said it should be fine. Said I had a real good size house return.

Now wondering if I should get the extended 8 year labor warrenty? I am leaning towards yes.[/QUOTE

So they say your house has a good size return, but it means nothing if the duct running to it is undersized or crimped.

I prefer at least 16" duct on a 3 ton unit.

[mrbasicshark]

Looks like they set bricks under the corners to level it up, not very professional. Looks like galvanized pipe for gas line and the thermostat wire should have been run in 1/2" liquid tight.
I agree with beenthere on the flex.


Yes they used bricks. one small brick/ each side on the front, regular size brick and a few shims on the rear/ each side. What would be a better way?

I looked at the flex it seems tight. I may try to put some close up pictures of both duct and brick when I get time. If you notice in one picture they did bust my block out to far then looks lime expoxy it back. I am not to crazy about that, but It shouldn't hurt anything, so hate to be to picky. What do you think?

[sammy37]

Yes they used bricks. one small brick/ each side on the front, regular size brick and a few shims on the rear/ each side. What would be a better way?

I looked at the flex it seems tight. I may try to put some close up pictures of both duct and brick when I get time. If you notice in one picture they did bust my block out to far then looks lime expoxy it back. I am not to crazy about that, but It shouldn't hurt anything, so hate to be to picky. What do you think?


To really do the job right, I would have had a new level slab poured for the unit that would extend at least one foot out on all three sides.

As a second choice, I would have raised the unit up a few inches and either used a short curb or angle iron stand underneath and then had the sheet metal made to transition to the new arrangement. I also would have a flex connector between the unit and the transition.
I'm sure dealing with brick is a pain,I dont see much of that where I live but I think your contractor could have taken a few extra steps to make the job turn out a little nicer.

[mrbasicshark]

Well, I have gotten to use this unit about two days now. Our outdoor temp has beening running right around 80*, indoor temp around 75-77*... Set the unit on 72* cool......Well, I am wondering if it is short cycling.

It cools really good. It does have a lot of air flow from the vents, with my old system, you could barley feel the air. Almost seems like to much for comfort.

The unit seems to run about 10 -20 minutes or so, kick off, then kicks back on about 6 minutes later, then probably 10 min or so and kick off for 5 min and repeat.

I do not think it is oversized. My old unit was 3 ton and so is this one. The installer sized it without without even knowing the size of the old unit, I found it out later.

It seems like the one / two stage is working, although it seems like it is going into two stage in a few minutes (guessing) The stat will click, air will turn on, then about a minute or two later the stat will click again and the air seems to be a touch smaller, but not sure.......


Called the dealer today,and they were are supposed to be checking on the issue.

***Added: Ok, seems like it is running longer, but still turning back on after five minutes......I watched the stat, temp was 72, I set it to 70....It ran about 15-20 min with temp staying at 72*, I walked to the kitchen, got a water, walked back and it kicked off and read 70*....it seemed to suddenly jump from 72 to 70 in just a few seconds, seems odd? Also, after about five minutes it kicked back on, and the indoor temp had not moved from 70*, seems odder.

Any ideas or suggestions?

Thanks.

[mrbasicshark]

Well, I have gotten to use this unit about two days now. Our outdoor temp has beening running right around 80*, indoor temp around 75-77*... Set the unit on 72* cool......Well, I am wondering if it is short cycling.

It cools really good. It does have a lot of air flow from the vents, with my old system, you could barley feel the air. Almost seems like to much for comfort.

The unit seems to run about 10 -20 minutes or so, kick off, then kicks back on about 6 minutes later, then probably 10 min or so and kick off for 5 min and repeat.

I do not think it is oversized. My old unit was 3 ton and so is this one. The installer sized it without without even knowing the size of the old unit, I found it out later.

It seems like the one / two stage is working, although it seems like it is going into two stage in a few minutes (guessing) The stat will click, air will turn on, then about a minute or two later the stat will click again and the air seems to be a touch smaller, but not sure.......


Called the dealer today,and they were are supposed to be checking on the issue.

***Added: Ok, seems like it is running longer, but still turning back on after five minutes......I watched the stat, temp was 72, I set it to 70....It ran about 15-20 min with temp staying at 72*, I walked to the kitchen, got a water, walked back and it kicked off and read 70*....it seemed to suddenly jump from 72 to 70 in just a few seconds, seems odd? Also, after about five minutes it kicked back on, and the indoor temp had not moved from 70*, seems odder.

Any ideas or suggestions?

Thanks.

Update: Spoke with the dealer today...They said that with the currently mild weather in our area (mid to upper 70s of day/ 60s at night) and with the 803 stat, that frequent cycling was possible untill the weather changes......They said that the stat was just really sensitive and trys to keep the temp on what you set it to without any swing......They also said if I wanted to go with a lesser model stat, for example the 602, 502, or which ever it calls for...that those stats are less sensitive and would have a bigger swing.

Any comments? Thanks

[beenthere]

They may have the CPH set too high. or the hole where the thermsotat wires come through is not sealed.

[mrbasicshark]

Update:

Ok had the unit awhile now and it seems to be doing ok....It has been a bit hard to compare savings as we also switch water heaters from gas to electric. Seems like we are running only a touch higher on ele bill, so I figure that is a saving if you factor in ele rates increases and the ele water heater.

However, I seem to now be having the dirty sock problem...I had no idea this was even a thing...but sadly now I know.....Dealer supposed to be sending someone out to check it.....I kicked on the gas back-up heat myself this morning to see if I could get rid of it, at least temp.....

As this is my first dealing with a heat pump......right now I am wishing I would have just went with 16 SEER gas package unit, instead of the 16 SEER duel fuel package unit ..... but hopefully, this will be easy fix and I can say the heat pumps/duel fuel are the way to go...guess we will see