v-belts that last

[amickracing]

Any of the bigger name belts like Browning, goodyear or gates will last a pretty long time as long as things are lined up right and you're using the proper application (right number of belts if it's a high HP application).

I generally use Browning everywhere because that's what the main supply house stocks.

What kind of equipment are these belts on?

[John Culpepper]

I use the cogged Dayton belts from Grainger. Like said before any of the big manufacturers will last if everything is lined up and up to specs.

[yellowirenut]

proper pulley (shim) alignment and maintenance is just as if not more important that belt maker

[JackieA5]

Only Use Browning !

[Octopus]

proper pulley (shim) alignment and maintenance is just as if not more important that belt maker

You got that right!:ditto:

[ascj]

What v-belts seem to last the longest?

Ones that don't have variable pitch sheaves on them.:eek2:


Most belt failures are not the belts themselves, but other variables. Those other variables include; wrong sized belts, worn sheaves, improper tension, misalignment, and etc.

We use mostly Gates, because we get them cheaper than Browning and Goodyear and they wear just the same. We never let belts go to see how long they can possibly last.

[seascott]

I like Gates, i tried switching to their cogged belts because of the claims to run cooler less noise = less wear. I found the exact opposite to be true. Misaligned pulleys and bad tension (boy those little apprentices can crank a belt tight!) seem to be the big killers. OEM's using big motors and high pulley ratios grind the belts down too. A 75 hp prime mover with across the line starting can yank the biggest banded belt. Soft starters sure save belts on the big units.

[amickracing]

Belts are cheap, so replacing them often isn't a bad idea... of course that excludes those huge belts that cost a small fortune.

I try to replace RTU belts when I do my fall PM. I don't want to be on a roof in a blizzard replacing a broken belt. Now I don't like being on a roof in the summer when it's super hot out, but it's better than blizzards.

Exhaust fans (the one's that take small belts), I generally do one or 2 times a year. Since these lil buggars have such small pulley's on them sometimes they can wear a bit faster than a larger pulley'ed belt will.

Liebert style units almost always get belts 2x a year, it doesn't look good when you take a server room down from a broken belt... not that I'd ever have had that happen... I'm just saying lol.

Most of the large AHU units I work on have VFD's on them which are belt friendly, so they get replaced every year or every couple years.

That I know of there's one chiller in town that has belt driven compressors on it (oddly enough, it's one of the newest one's too), we don't take care of it yet, but I'd imagine those belts would be a yearly change too.

[tunaguy]

[QUOTE=ascj;5798302]Ones that don't have variable pitch sheaves on them.:eek2:


/QUOTE]

:ditto:

[seascott]

Agreed, VFD's are great. It's the units with inlet guide vanes that burn up the belts.

[joebear]

no jason belts!!

[Paul Bee]

Gates or Browning.

[Jwise]

I use goodyear. I they are the easiest for me to get and generally have the size I need.

[dfelt]

For longer life on smaller diameter sheaves ie.less than 3.25" use cogged belts because of tight radius.Note also that a lot of times they will have closer to a one to one drive/load ratio than larger so sheave will be subject to more speed which means more heat.
Belts don,t take UV well. When a long span is involved may have to retrofit for belt idler to address bit o' whip.I don,t think it,s a good idea to turn a belt inside out as some do because it takes little to break some of the fibres if force is applied then.Show of hands:how many ride the belt over the sheave instead of slacking tension as mfgr.will request? Sorry I took so long;both my hands were in the air.Bar of soap can work as an emergency dressing till back to fix proper but when Ifarmed and had combine w/monster belts dressing seamed to only soothe a wee while then they degraded quickly.

Ijust realised I,d rather talk about women or sports or women doing sports.

[ascj]

If you able to roll the belt, then your tension is off. Tension a belt to proper specs and then try rolling it off. If you have 4' between the sheaves and it's a "a" belt, sure. But with newer drives being under 24" and running cogged belts, you should not be able to roll the belts with the proper tension.

[Randy S.]

Get rid of the adjustable pitch drive sheaves. Line stuff up.

Do that and you don't need to have the belts tighter that the little E on a cheap geetar.

[dfelt]

Just to clarify what I had posted regarding "turning belt inside out".That would be after belt is removed from sheaves.Some do to scrutinize condition.
One other gentleman would like to do away with adjustable sheaves.A lot of equipment comes OEM with adj.so when for example performing air balance on MUA and exh.equip. you can accomplish w/ existing provided and don,t have to procure others and do trial w/half sizes.An inch and 5/8 bore larger diameter can cost a bit too.
But yeah,what he said about fixed type;if used when possible it should do away with mismatched belt types on wrong sheaves.

[NWMech]

We like to use powerbands on large cooling tower fans. They hold up a lot better even if they are a little harder to work with.

[Brimm]

It seams to me that the belts with the smaller pullys and sheavs wear out the fastest.

[fxb80]

Dayco

[RayD8630]

Slight hijack.

I forgot...what is the formula for determining belt size again?

[freerider]

Optibelts last along time.

[superfittertech]

I use the cogged Dayton belts from Grainger. Like said before any of the big manufacturers will last if everything is lined up and up to specs.

Dayton Belts cogged or not (made in Indonesia). We have had a lot of problems with their smallest cogged belts breaking bands. in one extreme took out the resilient rings in a PRV. I'm talking about AX-19 and AX-20 Replaced with Gates (made in the USA)and no more problems. Note sheves were aligned and had proper tension.

[yellowirenut]

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51j3QacuYzL._SL500_AA280_.jpg

:couchhide:::DD::eek2:

[jdcoolj]

Dayco and Gates

[tombeaux]

Dayco and Gates

I agree !!!:patriot:

[tombeaux]

For longer life on smaller diameter sheaves ie.less than 3.25" use cogged belts because of tight radius.Note also that a lot of times they will have closer to a one to one drive/load ratio than larger so sheave will be subject to more speed which means more heat.
Belts don,t take UV well. When a long span is involved may have to retrofit for belt idler to address bit o' whip.I don,t think it,s a good idea to turn a belt inside out as some do because it takes little to break some of the fibres if force is applied then.Show of hands:how many ride the belt over the sheave instead of slacking tension as mfgr.will request? Sorry I took so long;both my hands were in the air.Bar of soap can work as an emergency dressing till back to fix proper but when Ifarmed and had combine w/monster belts dressing seamed to only soothe a wee while then they degraded quickly.

Ijust realised I,d rather talk about women or sports or women doing sports.

small pulley dia. = cogged belt( reduced friction and longer life). Never run the belt over as it imparts uneven torque on the fibers . Dont be lazy now .adjust the thing properly your getting paid to do it correctly . :patriot:

[davo]

On critical systems with VFD's I have been installing gear belts and drives. The gear belts hardly ever require replacing, and the VFD's save more money as gear belts have much lower slip then a V belt.

Otherwise, I use Gates, Goodyear, Browning or Dayco.

Jayson Belts suck, in my opinion. I will never buy one again.

[mrhvacmechanic]

Belt brands are important.

I think most of the problems is not only alignment, but the right width belt for the sheave its being used in. Also slippage will burn it up fast also.

Obviously if your sheave is open to wide for the particular belt, your going to loose and wear it faster. I try to keep the belt for at least 6 months in most fan applications.

[ascj]

Belt brands are important.

I think most of the problems is not only alignment, but the right width belt for the sheave its being used in. Also slippage will burn it up fast also.

Obviously if your sheave is open to wide for the particular belt, your going to loose and wear it faster. I try to keep the belt for at least 6 months in most fan applications.

You are only getting 6 months on a belt, that services a fan?(I'm assuming you mean a propeller or centrifugal fan) Something is wrong there.

If you sheave is too open for the belt, that means get rid of that adjustable sheave and install the proper datum sheave.

[jtricor]

We replaced some late 80s Trane RTUs with Aaon units 70 tons each they are all vav RTUs. They are currently 4-5 years old now and are just as clean inside as the day we installed them, NO belts to change no bearings to grease, most supply fans are after your filters all the rubber dust from belts just gets pushed thru duct work.
No after hour calls on belts, Im a bit surprised that some other manufactors have not done the same, may be they just havent seen any.

[CENAIR]

I am amazed no one has mentioned setting the proper tension with the tool for the belts,something we do on all the large hvac systems we work on.

[superfittertech]

I am amazed no one has mentioned setting the proper tension with the tool for the belts,something we do on all the large hvac systems we work on.

if you use that on a carrier, then you are going to buy new bearings soon!

[timebuilder]

if you use that on a carrier, then you are going to buy new bearings soon!


...and the bearing brackets


...and the motor plate

[vmc1161]

...and the bearing brackets


...and the motor plate

It never ceases to amaze me how many units are impossible to set the proper tension on ... I know cost is the reason but it is frustrating to fight to get the tension and alignment right. And if you do get it right you damage the fan bracket or motor bracket or on cheap motors the bearings. … :beat:

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