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View Full Version : Truth or scam? Pro says need new coil...??



Qusjone
09-30-2009, 02:29 PM
Board newbie, private homeowner here, looking for some pro's feedback and advice. Sorry for the length of post; thanks in advance for all replies!

System specs (dual zone home, 3200 sq ft):
- ADP evap coil/air handler, model # HA03236C145B252273
- Carrier furnace, model # 58PAV070-12/Series 160
- Carrier fan/compressor, model # 38ckc036340
- Install dates around July 1999.

Upstairs zone evap coil and furnace both located in attic, as vertical stack assembly (coil on top, furnace below), both situated on top of a secondary drain pan underneath. Refrigerant level (HCFC-22) reads normal ops level.

We've had water draining out from secondary pan line, called a pro. Tech investigated, found secondary pan filled with water, looked to be dripping down from primary pan drain line outlet. (Trickling down and through furnace!) Thought primary pan drain line was clogged and causing overflow leakage into secondary pan, so cleaned it out. Seemed to initially solve issue. Then same happened again twice - secondary pan filling, draining out secondary line. Called pro again, and by 3rd time pro tech finally decided that primary drain pan line not clogged, and that primary pan is leaking out somehow down into secondary pan and needs replaced. (Can't see the pan itself other than drain outlets as coil unit is completely encased and sealed.)

After more than 2 weeks of no contact re: replacing primary drain pan, pro's office finally states that "Carrier no longer makes that particular coil and primary drain pan, no exact replacement pan is available, and since coils and pans have to be precisely matched" we need to replace the entire unit, coil and all! Office also said that this particularl coil unit was all-in-one and the primary pan wasn't mean to be replaced alone anyway. This is contrary to what pro's tech said here on site: that coil was ADP (not Carrier) and that the pan was removable and replaceable (after opening unit case). Difference in cost (parts + labor) = jumped from $ for pan replacement to $ for coil + pan unit replacement, with some new ductwork.

QQ1 - Am I being scammed here? Can just the primary drain pan be replaced? Even if so, is it worthwhile to do the coil and the pan together? ADP's info implies the drain pan is ABS plastic, very unlikely to leak (no rusting) but regardless can be pulled out and replaced as needed...

QQ2 - If not being scammed, the pro recommends a larger 22-SEER rated unit from Bryant. Generally speaking, is this good or would you recommend different size/rated unit or brand?

I am confused here and need to calm down my B.S. warning alarm. Thanks!

Ps. If anyone wants to recommend a good HVAC pro in Charlotte, NC - I'm much obliged.

t527ed
09-30-2009, 02:35 PM
if the pan is cracked for sure then i would replace the coil. 10 year old coil has chance of developing freon leak from being pulled out and handled to replace pan.

if coil is replaced it should be sized to match the current outdoor unit.

I_bend_metal
09-30-2009, 02:42 PM
Has anyone actually checked your refrigerant levels???

Sounds to me like that unit is low on charge and freezing up....then is completely thawed out by the time the tech gets there....

Qusjone
09-30-2009, 03:37 PM
Orig. newbie poster here...Thanks guys, appreciate the response info!

Some follow-up info:

* t527ed -- how do I determine the size of my outdoor fan/condense/compress unit to ensure they stick me with the right replacement coil? It's a Carrier, mod # 38ckc036340 Should I insist on a Carrier matched coil this time, or another ADP is ok, or other?

* I_Bend_Metal -- yes, supposedly the pro checked refrigerant level and said it was fine. I asked about freezing, he said that wasn't it since it's been fine keeping up with the set indoor temp and blowing cool air. (He said if it was frozen, the unit would run but air coming out of registers wouldn't be very cold and unit would have trouble keeping indoor temp down, or cooling down air temp quickly.)

** Interestingly enough, we did have to have 1.5 lbs of refrigerant added at the start of both last season (08) and again this season (09) indicating some slow/minor leak. Pro tech said this was normal for a unit this age (10 yrs) and not much leakage esp. after 3+ months of non-use during winter months... ALSO, water accumulation was visible on primary pan outlet where drain line connects, and even after pulling the line and re-sealing the outlet almost immediate water re-acumulation was observered, but we couldn't tell for certain if it was coming from inside or within the pan itself or dripping down inside the case... QQ -- Does this, in connection with water drainage issues into secondary pan, indicate to you all that the evap coil is actually the leakage culprit - or leaking in addition to primary pan - and need replaced??

Thanks again. -- Newbie Josh, Charlotte NC

I_bend_metal
09-30-2009, 10:16 PM
* I_Bend_Metal -- yes, supposedly the pro checked refrigerant level and said it was fine. I asked about freezing, he said that wasn't it since it's been fine keeping up with the set indoor temp and blowing cool air. (He said if it was frozen, the unit would run but air coming out of registers wouldn't be very cold and unit would have trouble keeping indoor temp down, or cooling down air temp quickly.)

** Interestingly enough, we did have to have 1.5 lbs of refrigerant added at the start of both last season (08) and again this season (09) indicating some slow/minor leak. Pro tech said this was normal for a unit this age (10 yrs) and not much leakage esp. after 3+ months of non-use during winter months... ALSO, water accumulation was visible on primary pan outlet where drain line connects, and even after pulling the line and re-sealing the outlet almost immediate water re-acumulation was observered, but we couldn't tell for certain if it was coming from inside or within the pan itself or dripping down inside the case... QQ -- Does this, in connection with water drainage issues into secondary pan, indicate to you all that the evap coil is actually the leakage culprit - or leaking in addition to primary pan - and need replaced??

Thanks again. -- Newbie Josh, Charlotte NC

If you have added 3 pounds of refrigerant in the past 2 years, I would want a second opinion on that current refrigerant level...this is NOT normal for a unit that is 10 years old....If he says you have a small leak somewhere, ask him to find it! If he can find it and prove it, then you will have options how to take care of that situation....

steveinks
09-30-2009, 10:34 PM
its not "normal" for any system to have to be charged every year since it does not use refridgerant like a car uses fuel. there is defiantly a leak and i would start with the adp coil since they tend to start leaking at around 5-7 years of service

MechComf
10-01-2009, 11:22 AM
Your condensing unit is a 3-ton. Bryant and Carrier are same Coils just a different name tag.
If you are losing refrigerant in the heating months I would suspect the evaporator coil. When in the heating mode coil temps are higher which in turn gives us higher pressures in the evap coil.
Make sure your tech verifies where the leak is. If the leak is in the evaporator coil you can take care of both problems (refrigerant and water leak) with one coil replacement.