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fridgitator
07-22-2009, 06:47 PM
I'm dealing with a True TS-72F reach-in freezer. It has a drain tube from the condensate pan that runs from the top of the food compartment to the back. The condensate drain tube has a flexible heater that is supposed to keep it from feezing. This is wired in series with the evaporator defrost element, and two defrost termination switches. All the components are funtional, but the hose keeps freezing up, causing a glacier to form at the back of the compartment. Does anyone know where I can find a schematic for this machine?

monkeyman#1
07-22-2009, 06:53 PM
I'm dealing with a True TS-72F reach-in freezer. It has a drain tube from the condensate pan that runs from the top of the food compartment to the back. The condensate drain tube has a flexible heater that is supposed to keep it from feezing. This is wired in series with the evaporator defrost element, and two defrost termination switches. All the components are funtional, but the hose keeps freezing up, causing a glacier to form at the back of the compartment. Does anyone know where I can find a schematic for this machine?

The condensate tube heater should be wired direct, so that it is always energized. Once you get the ice off of the drain, be prepared to re- pipe because that pipe is most likely split.

sapper
07-22-2009, 07:51 PM
it should be wired in paralel not series.

madcad
07-22-2009, 10:56 PM
It is on the cover were the timer and elect. come into box. I just worked on one. Make sure tube is clear to drain and box is level.

frigetater
07-23-2009, 06:32 AM
fridgitator :D

fridgitator
07-23-2009, 03:21 PM
It is on the cover were the timer and elect. come into box. I just worked on one. Make sure tube is clear to drain and box is level.


Thanks, Madcad I found it. The diagram calls for it to be wired in series with the defrost heater. the drain hose is a contributing factor. It seems to be kinked about an inch past where it enters the back of the case. I can get a peice of 1/8" plastic coated cable past that point, and water seeps through, but slowly. I'd feel much better if it were wide open. I'm not looking forward to having to take the whole thing apart to get at it.

jhd1234
07-23-2009, 03:36 PM
Could you take a dremel tool and cut a small opening around the back wall where the drain tube goes thru? Repair or replace the drain tube and seal the hole with expanding foam.

itsiceman
07-23-2009, 05:12 PM
Thanks, Madcad I found it. The diagram calls for it to be wired in series with the defrost heater. the drain hose is a contributing factor. It seems to be kinked about an inch past where it enters the back of the case. I can get a peice of 1/8" plastic coated cable past that point, and water seeps through, but slowly. I'd feel much better if it were wide open. I'm not looking forward to having to take the whole thing apart to get at it.

It should be in parallel like sapper said and sometimes a hose clamp around the kink works well to keep the tube round.

If the heater is smashed in the tube instead of nice and straight it will ice up also

madcad
07-23-2009, 05:36 PM
If you can find a spring to fit over the tube and push it on it helps hold it round. I did this on the box I was working on and it worked great.

fridgitator
07-23-2009, 06:19 PM
I guess I've been looking at the thing too long-forest through the trees and all that. I'm going to cut the hose at the opening, drill a hole through the back of the case, and run a new hose down the outside of the back. No point in ripping the thing apart to salvage a couple bucks worth of hose!

dangpgt97
07-23-2009, 06:57 PM
Dont forget to trap it.

cool whiz
07-24-2009, 04:36 AM
I guess I've been looking at the thing too long-forest through the trees and all that. I'm going to cut the hose at the opening, drill a hole through the back of the case, and run a new hose down the outside of the back. No point in ripping the thing apart to salvage a couple bucks worth of hose!

Bingo.
We've been doing this for years and it's the only way to go.

brent1371
07-29-2009, 09:53 PM
small hole in the back is a great idea. Also good for cap. tubes

jeep6275
07-30-2009, 10:40 PM
im not sure how old your unit is but i had the same model where the tube was tied in a knot inside the insulation. i rerouted the drain line but because i was curious what was going on i cut the sheetmetal off the back wall and dug out the insulation to find the tube.. i couldnt believe it.

jeep

fridgitator
07-30-2009, 10:50 PM
Before I decided to run a new hose, I shoved a smaller hose up the original, and the farthest it would go is about a foot short of where it enters the interior. When I drilled through the case from the inside, the hose was flat where it goes through the bushing. I'd love to rip it open, but it's only two years old.

jeep6275
08-01-2009, 04:34 PM
yeah i hear ya. mine was only 2 weeks old. but i just couldnt leave the job site until i knew for sure what was causing my problem.

2 each their own!

jeep