GE GSS201EMDcc Side by Side

[sapper]

After about an hour the freezer is 26 and the fridge is 64. The Evap Fan isn't running. The compressor and condenser fan is running. I cliped the wires, to the evap fan, after I unplugged it of course, and wire nutted them together and ran the unit. I measured 12 volts dc between the white and red wires, there is also a yellow and a blue wire there. The motor is a 9.75 volt dc. So I figured it was a bad fan motor because I had the correct voltage to the fan.

I purchased a new fan and installed it. The unit still not cooling after an hour. I contacted the appliance repair place that I bought the fan motor at and he said that it takes a couple hours. Even though I explained I had the 12 volts dc going to the motor. I did that and still the same. I was wondering if I got a bad replacement, not likely but not out of the realm of possibility. Now here's my question, there is a yellow and a blue wire also on that motor harness. Could there be something else that the board is looking for to pass another leg of power to that motor?

Because the new one isn't working either. I tested the old one with a nine volt battery. When I hooked the red and the white to the battery I got nothing. But when I twisted the red, blue, yellow together and connected it to the battery, the shaft spun, seemingly slow, but it spun. So that's what brought my question about the other leg from the circuit board. Also I noticed only the bottom 3rd of the evap froze when the compressor ran, so it could be a refrigeration problem too. It has 2 sensors, one at the top of the evap and one at the bottom. Oh yeah I did clean the condenser coil.

Also if this is in the wrong section, please don't crucify me.

[kiwireeferman]

Dont think you can test for voltage with a multimeter as they play around with the waveform for speed control. The easiest way to test is to connect a 12v lamp to the correct wires to act as a load. Suggest it's most likely the control board.

[badbillr]

Dont think you can test for voltage with a multimeter as they play around with the waveform for speed control. The easiest way to test is to connect a 12v lamp to the correct wires to act as a load. Suggest it's most likely the control board.

I agree with "Kiwireeferman", it's most likely a bad controller board. This board runs everything in the refrigerator. It is located in the rear of the unit. Look for a rectangular metal cover & remove it. The board is behind this panel. Look at a diagram
of the unit by clicking on the picture.

[JWB]

Funny we're talking fridge's. Mine is about 6, GE up and down and makes a creaky noise. Cools good, but seems to make an almost constant creak when the weather warms up. Seems like it is freon migrating.

[JWB]

Funny we're talking fridge's. Mine is about 6, GE up and down and makes a creaky noise. Cools good, but seems to make an almost constant creak when the weather warms up. Seems like it is freon migrating.

[sapper]

Yeah I was wondering about the control board. I'm always leary about condeming boards. But as you say everything is controlled by the board.

[mirfgtech]

I am working on a GE SxS (GSS22JFMCWW - circa 2001) with a Evap Fan Motor problem.

From what I can see, it is either the Motor itself, or the CPU Board.

I can't seem to find any definitive way to troubleshoot this problem. I hate "shot gunnning" the problem with replacing both parts. It gets to be expensive on guessing what the problem is. This way you (or one) knows NOTHING of the real problem.

The motor has 4 leads to a Molex Plug. The Service Document that I have on these GE SxS's describes a three (3) wire Evap Fan Motor. Something tells me this is not going to work for this Refrig. :confused:

There must be a Tech Sheet out there for one to diagnose these DC fan motors somewhere.

I sit back and see that GE brings good things to mass confusion.
:mad:

[frigeman]

It will be the board. We have had several that when the fan motor goes bad it also knocks out the board.

Try explaining that to the customer.


:)

[sapper]

Amen to that mirfgtec.

I had an intresting talk with the guy that I baught the fan motor from. I told him I did what he said and let it run for 5 hours streight and only got 16 in the bottom of the freezer and 55 in the top of the freezer (gee I wonder why, maybe cause the fan wasn't running). So I asked him about the cpu board theory. He said he thought I was in over my head and should schedule a service call. Well after that comment, I hung up. I think I will take his fan back and demand my money back. He also just lost a customer. Even if he charges a restock fee I could still get it cheaper elswhere. I only went to him because thats where I've been getting appliance parts for years and he always treated me good. If I said something like that to one of my customers, I'd be fired.

Anyways, I thought I seen a troubleshooting guide somewhere on the internet for this model, but I can't remember where.

Maybe I should keep the fan till I get a board in case the motor is still bad like fridgeman said. I sure won't be going to that A-hole for the part though. Or, better yet find me a good used refridgerator that has a good ol defrost timer and thermostat, something I can troubleshoot when something goes wrong.

[sapper]

Here's a post I found searching the boards about this unit. If nothing else there is a little comedy in it. http://hvac-talk.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=77818

[frigeman]

You can find the info you need at
www.appliance.junk.com

They have service manuals you can download(keep the motor)

[frigeman]

You wont be in over your head the board is on the cabinet back under a removable cover that has 1/4 in hex headed screws in it. Then its just snap on spacer mounted with a screw on the ground wire and 3-4 molex connectors.

Unplug it before you start of course.

[sapper]

Oh I know I'm not. I was already wondering about the board any ways. Something cool I finally found that I was looking for is the damn Wiring diagram. I found mine in the compartment behind the temp control knobs. I scaned it. It doesn't go into great detail about troubleshooting but it does give you what the equalized presures should be at certain ambiant temps, and thermistor ranges.

Thanks for the help every one. I try to contribute as much as I take. I'll report back the results even though you guys know what will happen. It'll take a couple days because I'll have to order it since my usual source isn't gonna see another dime of my money.