Inducer blower question

[mikemichel]

Hi all.

I'm hoping this is just paranoia on my part. I recently moved my home gym into the basement, not far from my furnace. While working out I noticed that my furnace would kick on to its second stage for a while and after a while I could hear the inducer blower go from full blast to sort of varying its speed. Almost like you were turning a dimmer switch slowly up and down a bit (the air blower is still going at the second stage speed). When this happens I also noticed that the red blinking status light goes from blinking fast to blinking in a 3-blink series (3 blinks, pause, 3 blinks, pause, etc...). The furnace seems to finish out its heat cycle just fine, shut down like normal, and return to its slow steady blink cycle again. The house appears to be heating fine, and I would not even have noticed this if I weren't near the furnace for a while, and so paranoid. I hope this all makes some sense. Anyway, here's the specs on my system.

American Standard Freedom 90 Two-Stage furnace, installed 12/01
model #: AUX080R942W1
Zoned 3 ways using an Ultra-Zone system (no outwardly visible model number)
Air Bear 5x20x25 filter
AprilAir humidifier (never needed, never used)

Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

Oh, and I do get yearly service (just done last Oct), and change my Air Bear 5x20x25 filter every 6 months.

Thanks again.
Mike

[edward301]

I would have someone come and look at it. The 3 blinking lights is a
trouble code. May not be major at this time, but may become major
at any time, if not repaired.

[cmajerus]

Check your intake pipe, we leave them unglued and use silicone instead so they can be popped off and checked, they suck in leaves sometimes, or frost up. If your installers don't do it this way, you will need to call your service guy out, you don't want to break anything by forcing it.

[mikemichel]

Check your intake pipe, we leave them unglued and use silicone instead so they can be popped off and checked, they suck in leaves sometimes, or frost up. If your installers don't do it this way, you will need to call your service guy out, you don't want to break anything by forcing it.


So while I was checking the inlet and exhaust vents for any blockage (there was none that I could see), I noticed the error codes on the back of the bottom removable panel. The 3 flashes I'm seeing apparently indicate a "Pressure switch error". I will call someone in next week, but any idea what the error is indicating. Hopefully a simple "inexpensive" fix?

Thanks,
-Mike

[cmajerus]

depends, could be a problem with the inducer, if so get prepared for a major hit unless the unit has a 10 yr parts warranty. It could be as simple as something they missed on the check up.

[mikemichel]

Funny (not really), I'm 6 years into my 10 year American Standard warranty on everything BUT the inducer, as I recall. So my luck... it'll be the inducer. So I'm guessing $xxx - $xxx should be expected - if the inducer is the issue?

And no worries, while I'm a very technical hands on type guy, there are two things I don't mess with; my HVAC and my breaker box. :D

Thanks for your help.


No pricing questions.

[cmajerus]

you should have 10 yr on the inducer if the rest of the parts are 10 yr, HX should be lifetime for original owner

If you post your serial I may be able to find out more on your warranty coverage.

[mikemichel]

you should have 10 yr on the inducer if the rest of the parts are 10 yr, HX should be lifetime for original owner

If you post your serial I may be able to find out more on your warranty coverage.

Wow, thanks for all the help. I really appreciate it!

Anyway, here's my serial #: 2443MTT7G
Line #: 07

Thanks again!!!
-Mike

[mikemichel]

bump.

[jid1877]

Wow, thanks for all the help. I really appreciate it!

Anyway, here's my serial #: 2443MTT7G
Line #: 07

Thanks again!!!
-Mike It shows you only had a 5yr parts warranty with a life time HX warranty. No extended warranty.

[cmajerus]

ship date was 11/04/02 job name S.G. Torrice Co. all the info I found.

No warranty left.

[Milk man]

Are you on propane or natural gas?

Could be something as simple as a restriced pressure switch port or slow drain/trap. Don't worry until your service company tells you it's bad news.

[cmajerus]

For the ". . .an organization. . .that takes bets and pays winnings depending upon results and, depending on the nature of the bet, [figures] the odds." :)

for your ancient furnace that may have been a good idea:rolleyes:

For this one he is looking at some big bucks and the furnace needs an upgrade kit that includes the board, inducer and all but 2 wiring harnesses in order to replace the inducer, so not exactly a good idea to gamble on it just being the inducer.

If it is deemed an issue with the inducer but operating within it's limits, I would let it go until it fails, you'll see why when you get a price from the Trane/Am Std dealer.

[WhoIsThat?]

for your ancient furnace that may have been a good idea:rolleyes:

For this one he is looking at some big bucks and the furnace needs an upgrade kit that includes the board, inducer and all but 2 wiring harnesses in order to replace the inducer, so not exactly a good idea to gamble on it just being the inducer.

If it is deemed an issue with the inducer but operating within it's limits, I would let it go until it fails, you'll see why when you get a price from the Trane/Am Std dealer.
I'm going to give up gambling and try to make an honest living.:o

The price of replacement parts brings up an interesting point. My ancient furnace uses relay logic and I can fix most stuff on it myself, and it is inefficient. The board is so simple I could probably draw a schematic for it by just studying it for a while. No software, no firmware, no memory chips, no processor. And the manufacturer sent me a service manual of sorts, just for the asking, so I know the proper sequence of events. Since '92 I have replaced a run capacitor, an inducer motor, and diagnosed a faulty gas valve.
The tech showed up with a new gas valve after my 15 min long voicemail message detailing my whole troubleshooting sequence. He was laughing - we both were.
His answering service almost went bonkers with this one.

A modern efficient furnace probably cannot be fixed by the homeowner (from what I'm hearing, some of them can't be fixed by anyone), just like appliances that use microprocessors instead of electromechanical timers.

There must be some price of fuel at which
it is a tie between
keeping the inefficient but easy-and-cheap-to-repair furnace or
buying a more efficient, and possibly touchy, furnace and pay big bucks for installation and big bucks to others for (possibly frequent) repairs.

[mikemichel]

Are you on propane or natural gas?

Could be something as simple as a restriced pressure switch port or slow drain/trap. Don't worry until your service company tells you it's bad news.

Natural Gas.

[mikemichel]

for your ancient furnace that may have been a good idea:rolleyes:

For this one he is looking at some big bucks and the furnace needs an upgrade kit that includes the board, inducer and all but 2 wiring harnesses in order to replace the inducer, so not exactly a good idea to gamble on it just being the inducer.

If it is deemed an issue with the inducer but operating within it's limits, I would let it go until it fails, you'll see why when you get a price from the Trane/Am Std dealer.

Wow, did I buy a furnace that was too early in its life (first year?)? It sound like American Standard had to do some major redesign work on this model furnace if all of those parts are required. I have an idea what the parts go for, and I know that I'm looking at about a grand in parts alone, and that doesn't include any sort of labor cost.

Bummer... I thought that I did all the right research when I replaced my entire HVAC system. What's your experience with units like mine, are they lemons?

Mike

[cmajerus]

Wow, did I buy a furnace that was too early in its life (first year?)? It sound like American Standard had to do some major redesign work on this model furnace if all of those parts are required. I have an idea what the parts go for, and I know that I'm looking at about a grand in parts alone, and that doesn't include any sort of labor cost.

Bummer... I thought that I did all the right research when I replaced my entire HVAC system. What's your experience with units like mine, are they lemons?

Mike
No not lemons, they just found a better and in the long run cheaper inducer motor, the kit costs roughly the same as the original motor does, but in the future will only need the motors replaced instead of the kit. Because of the circuit board being mounted directly on the inducer motor, to change to the new motor it needs the new control board that has the inducer circuitry built into that. I have The Trane XV90 which is the exact same thing as yours, and am very happy with it, I am leaning towards other issues with your furnace than the inducer, but just want you to be prepared for a worst case type scenario. And it seems you have that "ballpark figure" figured out already, so you shouldn't fall over from a heart attack.

Lots of other variables can cause the inducer to ramp up and down like that, hopefully you get a good thorough tech that is familiar with this furnace so you can get it back to normal operation again.

BTW I think the 1st XV was around '98 since then they have changed design for the inducers from a 2 spd, then the style like yours(but had rigid mounting and was noisy), then the one like yours that is rubber mounted, now a new style that seems to be IMO a way better design for longevity.

By any chance does your inducer make kind of a grinding type noise while running?

[mikemichel]

Yup, it makes the grinding noise once in a while. Much less so for the past few years, after I reinforced the rubber mounts with some rubber ties (like adjustable rubber bands, but much more heavy duty).

So with the update kit will this grinding noise go away?

Mike

[WhoIsThat?]

My ancient nat. gas furnace is spec'ed at 83% efficient (when new).
With my gas bills at this efficiency it would take ~10 years of wasted gas to equal the installed cost of new furnace, I think.

[cmajerus]

Yup, it makes the grinding noise once in a while. Much less so for the past few years, after I reinforced the rubber mounts with some rubber ties (like adjustable rubber bands, but much more heavy duty).

So with the update kit will this grinding noise go away?

Mike

yep, all gone:D You may want to ask the tech to find out if there is by chance a service bulletin out on noisy inducers ie. the part # BLW00732;)

I can't find my copy, but i am pretty sure that is what the last bulletin I got was regarding. And the reason for going to the new kit.

[merlin73]

As cmajerus is helping you, and have very good answers, i also like milk man's massage as well.
you can have a $$$$$ repair or a simple $ charge,
See what the tech say..

[mikemichel]

yep, all gone:D You may want to ask the tech to find out if there is by chance a service bulletin out on noisy inducers ie. the part # BLW00732;)

I can't find my copy, but i am pretty sure that is what the last bulletin I got was regarding. And the reason for going to the new kit.

If there is a bulletin, would that mean a cut in parts cost?

My HVAC company just sent me a flyer offering a ninty-nine dollar tune-up, a big savings over the normal cost (bad econemy?). And if my furnace dies after the tune-up, they will refund my money for the tune-up (and charge for the fix instead:D). Good timming, I guess... I can ask the tech about the update while he's here.

Mike

[sktn77a]

You can also call American Standard/distributor/installer/service company. Sometimes they will provide parts for free if there was a defect in the original design (even after the warranty expires). Process usually starts with a good service company, preferably someone who deals primarily with AS and can work with distributor/manufacturer, to take the lead.

Never hurts to ask nicely!

[mikemichel]

You can also call American Standard/distributor/installer/service company. Sometimes they will provide parts for free if there was a defect in the original design (even after the warranty expires). Process usually starts with a good service company, preferably someone who deals primarily with AS and can work with distributor/manufacturer, to take the lead.

Never hurts to ask nicely!

Thanks again for all of you help.

-Mike