Drain line slope? Bad install ...

[stonecipher]

Hi!

I've noticed a problem with my drain lines. In 2006 I had my upstairs air handler replaced under a homeowners warranty. It looks like the installers who replaced the air handler just hooked up the existing drain lines to the inner pan. Trouble is, it looks like the inner pan is set up to be tilted in the opposite direction of the old one. So, the pan fills up and overflows before it can ever go down the drain line. In fact, it looks like it would go out the downturn spout before it would go out the drain line. The drain line runs over to a wall and goes into the drain pipe for my washing machine.

The emergency pan runs out to the eaves, it's the second line in the picture. My question is this, it looks like the drain line should be attached to the first fitting on the lower left corner of the unit. Can I replace the pipes with shorter runs? Or would that put too much slope in the line? Can I just get a similar trap and T's and just shorten it to fit? I don't think that the original installers will come back out this long after the install, they weren't the best anyway. The company I use now is pretty good, but I'd hate to spend the $$$ to fix something that I already do with my sprinklers, etc. I am kicking myself for not noticing this before, and I have had guys out several times on other issues and never had anyone notice it. The setup is a heat pump, in Dallas, TX. Can get more specs if required.

Would welcome any constructive comments!

Stone


http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn181/Stonecipher_photos/100_6725.jpg
Shot of the drain line. It should be connected to the left hookups.


http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn181/Stonecipher_photos/100_6726.jpg
Pic showing the line making a slight turn as it heads down around the unit.



http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn181/Stonecipher_photos/100_6727.jpg
Drain line going into washing machine drain


http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn181/Stonecipher_photos/100_6728.jpg
Little bit closer pic.

[the dangling wrangler]

From the looks of that emergency pan, the primary has never worked like it should. If they replaced that pan two years ago, there shouldn't be that much rust in it. You've been hacked! Get a overflow safety of some type installed. You can be sure that the warranty company won't be back to help you for free. Good Luck.

[stonecipher]

No, the pan wasn't replaced at the time the air handler was. I should of mentioned that I had removed the far left plug to drain the standing water in the pan out prior to taking the picture. The house is about ten years old.

Thanks!

[t527ed]

if the coil was level in the pan it would probably drain fine....:cool:

[bmathews]

It looks like a Carrier air handler. There are very specific instructions on which drain to use, depending on the type of coil in it, slab or A-coil and depending on it being horizontal right or left. I can't remember if they come left or right, I don't install. If you change them from the way they come, you have to move a 3-4 items inside the air handler. I would call somebody out and be willing to pay them to check it out and fix whatever is necessary. Otherwise you will have a coil sitting in water creating premature and unnecessary corrosion, meaning it will start leaking and you will pay to replace it sooner than later.

[larobj63]

Why is the washing machine drain in the attic???? :confused:

Or are you just showing where it goes down through?

Anyhow - gravity is a predictable force. Make sure evrything pitches to the drain, if it does not, there is obviously a problem. The drain pan should be a back-up, and should not be wet - ever, really.

It is pretty common to have a "watergard" sensor in the pan that interupts the low voltage stat signal in the event that water is in the pan.

Running traps are often not recommended, but I can't say that for sure, for your specific install.


Either have the company fix the situation, or call someone that will?

[adrianf]

Level or not the return static should be less than .3 on that a/h.

The running trap should be replaced with a "P" trap.

Seconary unit drain is drawing attic air into house.

Chances are the unit is all slimed up inside.

[stonecipher]

It looks like a Carrier air handler. There are very specific instructions on which drain to use, depending on the type of coil in it, slab or A-coil and depending on it being horizontal right or left. I can't remember if they come left or right, I don't install. If you change them from the way they come, you have to move a 3-4 items inside the air handler. I would call somebody out and be willing to pay them to check it out and fix whatever is necessary. Otherwise you will have a coil sitting in water creating premature and unnecessary corrosion, meaning it will start leaking and you will pay to replace it sooner than later.

Says that it is a Payne Model PF1MNC061, and that the test static is 0.20, on the side. Also says to "Level unit front to back, and side to side" (It is level end to end, and is tilted a bit to the sid ethe drains are on). "Trap condensate lines as close to unit as possible. Use 4 1/2" traps. Pitch line 1" per 10'." I couldn't find an install pdf online.

It's an A-coil. In all of the pics, the left end shown are the two air returns going into the plenum, and then the wide end of the A. Yes, the pan inside is slimed up. The coil looks clean. What would be used for a proper secondary drain?

The running traps seem to be common in this area, they were on my last home, and on about 6 or 8 other units in homes that I've looked at when house shopping.

[agit8er]

pvc threaded plug with the red indicator/ sticker is the primary drain. Most Carrier, Bryant, Day and night and Payne air handler with A-coils will be set up for horizontal left from the factory. To convert to H-right one has to do some changes to the top of the coil and most important, switch the plastic drain pan to the other side. Obviously, the pan was switched but the drain is connected to the upper rise of the pan.

[bmathews]

If it's an A coil, it is setup wrong. There are many other things that need to be checked rather than just moving the location of the drain. Call somebody out to check to make sure it is all done correctly. This is not a homeowner project, it will cost you much more to fix if you screw it up than to just pay somebody to do it right.

[cborgs]

what was the name of the company that put this unit in, just so I know not to call them. You can remove the plugs in the lower left corner of the coil and install a threaded male coupling and get another trap and connect it to your 3/4" pvc drain line. However I would have someone check to make sure the inside of the coil is setup correctly to drain properly.

[patrick]

On an unrelated note about your hot water tank. I don't see any earthquake straps on it. (i'm not sure if you guys get earthquakes) If that is your attic I wouldn't want the tank to fall through the ceiling.

[kim]

That job would not pass code in my area. We are not allowed to use more than 3 ft of 3/4 pipe. This is a rule I fully endorse.

I never used running traps until code required a trap in the 1 1/2 line as well as the 3/4 line. I fiqured a running trap would cause the least problems.

Looks like the lower drain plug is lower than the pan lip. The system has to be raised to use the right drain. It also looks like the drain pan is sloped away from the drain plug they used. BUT, it is hard to be certain based on a picture.

[beachtech]

ROTFLMAO the are so many things wrong with this pic

not only did the guy put the drain line on the wrong access for this application (so you say) but this unit is strapped and suspended from the rafters lol why not make a platform and let it sit flat on the floor? and they used duct strap material to hang this thing up. is it even level? hoe can you level it?

i would have used inistrut and thread all ;)